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Top swapped L26 goes BOOM :D

N

nitroheadz28

New member
Exaggeration, but not sure what happened yet. Its a top swapped L26 with a 3.4 pulley/ 42.5lb injectors/ TOGS+ full exhaust/ ZZP fuel rail and pcm.

I was pulling out of taco bell after getting some food, I floored it to get up to speed. When I got to around 4k in 2nd gear, the car bogged and I let off immediately. (First time its ever done that).

I get to the light to come back to school, and its running on the rough side- nothing too crazy. The boost started fluttering up to 3-5psi at idle. I limped it back to campus and now theres a metallic clinking coming from the top end, it sounds like the screws in the M90 ran dry of oil and are just clunking together.

I had a buddy come help me diagnose it, as soon as he touched my engine- the SES light came on LOL.

I guess now I'm just hoping I can make it the 40 miles back home without it exploding, and looking for supercharger oil. If its not a lube issue, I guess its onto another charger. I don't know what gens can bolt on to which engine, so maybe theres a write up on that.

Is there anything else I might be overlooking from the symptoms I'm describing to you guys? Its definitely not knocking, it doesn't sound like a valvetrain issue either.
 


Gen 3 and Gen 5 will both bolt to a stock L67 manifold. The manifold for the Gen 5 has a bigger inlet.

Take the supercharger belt off, it will run better if super is the problem. Hopefully the rotors spin to let air come through. If not you may want to unhook bypass valve on super and make it open so air can get into the inlet of manifold.
 
That's a ssm90 setup from zzp. They took the intake of and put on a machined supercharger lower intake with ports for injectors. They did not swap the heads.

Crappy way to do it but it works.
 


You can pull the belt and start it and see if the noise goes away. Don't let it run long, you are not spinning the water pump.
 
Nothing but good news :D

Sigh, this sucks. What would the symptoms be if I did chip a piston? I haven't scanned for KR since I bought the car so it could be a possibility.
 
yeah scanning for KR is pretty important...lol
especially top swapped with those mods. thast like running a 3.2 on an l67 with no cam or something else of that nature.
 
I was just youtubing cars running with chipped pistons, and this clicking/ clunking is much more quiet than all the videos make it out to be. You can just hear it faintly over the exhaust as I drive (the exhaust is very loud though..).

My tensioner rocks back and forth like crazy now, engine also vibrates a lot more.

What if I pulled the belt off the pulley, do you think the tensioner would take up the slack? I get out of class in an hour so I guess I'll find out.
 


Well I limped it back home keeping the rpm under 2200, these cars having such tall gearing made it easier.

I'm wondering what could've made my boost spike like that at idle, the car behaved normally on the drive home apart from the SES light staying on and the persistent clanking noise. I'll check the oil reservoir on the charger tomorrow, as well as take the belt off the pulley to diagnose exactly whats going on.

If it turns out that the needle bearings in the charger are gone, or the issue is something apart from the coupler that isn't feasible to repair- I'm not sure what I'll do. I'd be inclined to just spend the cash and go turbo.
 
Get and Aeroforce Interceptor Scan gauge from zzp or else were before you buy anything else. As someones sig says not scanning your car when you mod is like having sex with hookers without a condom and just hoping you dont get an std.
 
slick2500 said:
Get and Aeroforce Interceptor Scan gauge from zzp or else were before you buy anything else. As someones sig says not scanning your car when you mod is like having sex with hookers without a condom and just hoping you dont get an std.
Click to expand...

I have dual scan gauges, but completely forgot about them.

As far as it being an L26, I honestly can't be certain. I bought the car in Feb and am just going by what the PO told me. The fact that it has an SSM90 setup from zzp would indicate that it was an NA engine.
 
Unhook the belt with teh car cold and try turning the pulley. How's that feel?
Try starting it up w/o the belt and let it run for 15-20 seconds, any noise?

If the noise is still there, pull the plugs and look at each as you pull them. Any bashed up?
 


BillBoost37 said:
Unhook the belt with teh car cold and try turning the pulley. How's that feel?
Try starting it up w/o the belt and let it run for 15-20 seconds, any noise?

If the noise is still there, pull the plugs and look at each as you pull them. Any bashed up?
Click to expand...

Did that and still makes noise, charger spins freely and has oil so thats out. I didn't get to pull the plugs, I guess this thing is toast though.
 
Tell me about it. I will admit that I haven't changed the oil since I bought it (I was anticipating replacing my oil pan gasket soon)- so long shot, but just maybe it might do something.

Its a shame though, the engine ran very strong and put a lot of higher end cars to shame around here. Theres a guy selling a rebuilt L67 and 4t65e-hd locally for $1400, but with the amount of rust on this car if the issue does turn out me having to rebuild or swap- I'll just part it out.
 
pull the spark plugs out and see if any of them are smashed or broken, is there a check engine light on?
 
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