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Took apart the whole engine.. (Advice Wanted)

And if your SC is opened up for an ic(hbar removed) then open up that LIM as well to match it at least even if you don't have a IC yet it will just line up better and not create turbulence. BTW if your dead set on building a motor I have a set of those pistons brand new .030 over with a bored block with new cam bearings and freeze plugs(not sure what other if any machine work was done) and freshened rods for sale asking $400


I did forget to add, that I do not have intercooler. I do have everything ready for it though. Looks like the setup is there, that is what the guy said when I bought the car. He sold it to me with the 3.0 pulley on it, car ran good, it was my lack of expierience and temptation to run a 2.8. I am interested in parts that I will need if anyone has any. The shortblock your selling would be a Bette deal then buying all new pistons I'd think. I live in zip code 01840. Also I'm not sure if the lifters I have are stock or not, is there a way to tell? I could upload a pic, but they were no markings as far as anything written on them. No logo. The guy who owned before me said his fastest pass in this car was 12.7 on racing slicks. Torsco gas I'm assuming.
 


He included HP Tuners. Why didn't you scan and tune it yourself ? He probably only ran the 2.8 on race gas. Even then the 2.8 seems a wee bit small.
 
He included HP Tuners. Why didn't you scan and tune it yourself ? He probably only ran the 2.8 on race gas. Even then the 2.8 seems a wee bit small.


as i was learning about KR and the HPtuner Software, the car died. I did hook everything up to the laptop, and was able to get the tuner software going. i would like to learn how to use this, after i get this car running. like i said before, im all new to the GTP game. I gave him a call the other day, he said 2.8 with Race Gas only, and run the 3.0 MAX 93 octane. he also said where i live now, for the summer time i should want to go with a 3.1 pulley.
 
Depends really. That HP Tuners is a super cool powerful program\tuning software. Rebuild her and learn that thing.
 
short block is cheap.

rebuild is not.

Short block is used.

rebuild is not.


How much do you want to invest in this car?

Look at the mods he's got and the dude just tore this thing apart in his driveway I would say he's willing to invest a fair amount.

But it seems like when anyone touches the bottem end on these cars they tend to go south fast... so I'd say thats also a reason not to
 


Look at the mods he's got and the dude just tore this thing apart in his driveway I would say he's willing to invest a fair amount.

But it seems like when anyone touches the bottem end on these cars they tend to go south fast... so I'd say thats also a reason not to


I figured since I have the motor stripped down to nothing, and I have all these mods, I'd like to invest a fair amount to get this thing on the track. Not going to happen all at once, but I want to make sure the engine is going to handle the power. But then I ask why do things go south with a lower end rebuild? My crank, cam, engine walls, rods and bearings look brand new. Only piston damage, and 2 of them were cracked some. This is the first time ive ever taken an engine apart like this, but I feel like I can put it back together withought to much trouble
 
i see ported for an IC setup but was there an IC? you shouldnt be on that low of a pulley with out one. a setup like that needs a custom tune. if your not IC i would be careful with a 3.2, maybe start with a 3.4 and tune from there. being a little bit rich is better than being a little bit lean.

the OE R lifters need to be installed a certain way.
 
More often then not, People who start doing bottem end work on these engines see them fail fairly quickly. If you do it right and make the investment in all the right stuff then it will be good to go. It's kind of one of those things that you either go all out with or don't do at all if you know what I mean. The question is do you want to be a man and put a $3,000-$8,000 engine in your car?
 
Looks like I should thinking about investing in an Intercooler then also. How well does the short stack hold up? What's recommended for me? I might as well buy a shortblock with .030 pistons bored out. What am I looking At for HP gains if I do that?

I appreciate all the help that has been giving to me so far, I didn't expect many responses.
 
you could probally rebuild the bottem end for pretty cheap but whats the point if your doing it with stock parts... So yea buy one or be everyones hero and do a 4.2 stroker build, with a huge cam, intercooled, with lots and lots of boost
 


with that setup, which is similar to mine, id go with a phenolic one (stg 3), theres a guy in the for sale section that sells the core at a nice price. then just get an install kit from one of the venders. if your going to do it do it right once. and a used block is a safer bet than a rebuild. check your valves and make sure they arent damaged from the pistons. some head studs would be a good investment too.

dont use the timing commander until you know exactly what you are doing. you want 0 knock, some will argue that a little is ok, i dont like to see more than 2-3*. once youve tuned out the knock drop ONE pulley size and start tuning all over again.
 
More often then not, People who start doing bottem end work on these engines see them fail fairly quickly. If you do it right and make the investment in all the right stuff then it will be good to go. It's kind of one of those things that you either go all out with or don't do at all if you know what I mean. The question is do you want to be a man and put a $3,000-$8,000 engine in your car?



One of my biggest reasons of thinking about a rebuild was because I did not want to go through more hassle with taking the cam out and putting it in the new block, am I wrong? I do not have the harmonic balancer pulled off and the single rollermaster chain has not been touched. New camshaft install requires replacement bearings and bolts if I were to do it right? I figured take the old pistons out, put the new ones in, new rings and rod bearings. But if i can find a used shortblock that is in nice condition, I will consider.
 
Thats why more often than not bottom end work fails you might get away with that but If you have it out of the car and mostly apart why risk it
 
i'd think getting a used motor and swapping your mod's into it would be the safest and easiest way to go, your heads are toast too im sure, and a bottom end and pistons is more work than a cam install. even if you put new cam bearings in the used engine, those just get hammered in with a tool for the job, you could rent it if need be.
 


I did forget to add, that I do not have intercooler. I do have everything ready for it though. Looks like the setup is there, that is what the guy said when I bought the car. He sold it to me with the 3.0 pulley on it, car ran good, it was my lack of expierience and temptation to run a 2.8. I am interested in parts that I will need if anyone has any. The shortblock your selling would be a Bette deal then buying all new pistons I'd think. I live in zip code 01840. Also I'm not sure if the lifters I have are stock or not, is there a way to tell? I could upload a pic, but they were no markings as far as anything written on them. No logo. The guy who owned before me said his fastest pass in this car was 12.7 on racing slicks. Torsco gas I'm assuming.


I could probably do 500 shipped on the setup, guessing 150 shipping. The block has been sprayed down with oil pretty regularly since I've had it is why the walls look a little brownish. Guy told me he had to take the pistons to the machine shop before they would bore it so they could get a perfect fit, then cam bearings and freeze plugs, I can't tell if its been align bored though and don't recall if he said it was or not. You know what the pistons cost, plus 100 for rings puts it over 500, not to mention the machined block and freshened rods. But here it is, just let me know if you have anymore questions about it or anything...

Here's the link: http://www.grandprixforums.net/bore...-adapter-injectors-tons-used-parts-49022.html
 
I could probably do 500 shipped on the setup, guessing 150 shipping. The block has been sprayed down with oil pretty regularly since I've had it is why the walls look a little brownish. Guy told me he had to take the pistons to the machine shop before they would bore it so they could get a perfect fit, then cam bearings and freeze plugs, I can't tell if its been align bored though and don't recall if he said it was or not. You know what the pistons cost, plus 100 for rings puts it over 500, not to mention the machined block and freshened rods. But here it is, just let me know if you have anymore questions about it or anything...

Here's the link: http://www.grandprixforums.net/bore...-adapter-injectors-tons-used-parts-49022.html


If i were to buy that, what gains can i see with the .030 over bore? does that mean that i now have to run a larger pulley? with all my mods i have now, and if i were to add the .030 bore to my mods list, do i need any more supporting mods? can this have the potential to shorten track times from 12.7 seconds? its one thing to swap out a used stock shortblock, put all my mods back in and go with a safe pulley size, get a tune and have my power back, or does swapping in a .030 create more problems for me. what is the compression to boost ratio. will i still be gaining horsepower buy going to a bigger pulley? is it going to be harder to eliminate knocking? or is it going to roast the tires off my car :O?
 
Youll never get more power by going with a bigger SC pulley????


im assuming it in this way..

.030 overbore=more compression? require larger pulley- does the overbore make up for the lost HP pullying up?

stock bore=8:5:1 use the 3.0 or 3.1 that i should of used. the pcm has been HP powertuned to run my mods 2.8 w/Racing Torco and 3.0 93 octane


so the question is, if i want to go faster, do i get the .030 or stock bore shortblock? in the future id like to get either the Stage 2 or 3 intercooler.
 
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