• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

To mod, or to rebuild? That is the question.. The $2000 question



trans dip stick can be bent, but you can also buy a flexible one (my recommendation) to replace it and it'll bend however you want.

and you don't have to remove the EGR, but a lot of people do to clean up the engine bay. you'll need a way to set the code to no report, though.
 
Clamps, flex, o2 extension, reuse stock gaskets or get Felpros. Get some copper rtv just in case..Dp isn't to much of a issue just watch where you drive. Removing egr is optional..will set 2 codes. I removed mine to clean up the bay a bit, keeps my TB cleaner, and weight reduction cuz racekar.
 
Thanks again guys. And comp if you said you drove on that modded PCM with a stock setup I'm not to worried about it for now. I'm just worried about something leaking on the dipstick as I was reading on gpona that some ppl were kinking the tube and needed a o ring for the bottom of the dipstick, along with having mounting issues up front were the passenger side fan motor was in the way of the header, broken a/c line trying to bend it down. Etc etc. In case you didn't notice I'm pretty cautious lol
 
I had to remove the metal man shroud. The ac line unless your hulk I don't see how you can break it. What I did was grab and wrap it around the line and then put a little body weight on it to slowly bend it down. Take your time and don't put to much weight on it. Then take the front headers and mock it up to make sure it clears the line. As far as the trans and oil duo stick I removed the trans stick (put a oil catch pan underneath it, it will leak a bit of trans fluid) for the oil stick I removed that and left the tubing and just slowly bent it out the way. I didn't have to completed remove it. Also where the front o2 sits on the headers you may want to bash in the firewall a bit so that the o2 doesn't rub..I didn't have the issue but other guys have and you may have to flip your sway bar.

Overall it's not a bad job yea there's a few kinks to workout but spending $200 on headers vs the $500-600 for vendors it's expected.
 


Nope...use your stock gaskets and or Felpros and three out the crappy ones that come with them. Use some copper rtv around the joints and once you use the band clamps your should have a great seal.
 
My car looks pretty clean and rust free underneath but would I be safe just picking up new nuts for the head studs? Or any other hardware just to be on the safe side
 
i would grab new ones where the headers meet the resinator flange. Also your gonna need to get 2 spark plug non foulers from your local parts store for the nonfouler trick on your rear o2 sensor or you will be dumping fuel liek crazy
 


Do you still need the non fouler if you have a tuned / canned PCM with it tuned out? I ordered a overkill PCM 2 days ago but haven't heard back from will yet
 


Some guys report a slight lose some say its the same if not better. Shouldn't make much of a noticeable difference especially if u tune for it.
 
Less crap getting into the TB = a win for me. Also lets crap in the bay and less weight = more win.


So I'm pro to deleting the egr unless you got emission testing.
 
I'm all for it too, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't gonna thrash my gas mileage. Not that I bought my car for the gas mileage but it is a plus. The EGR deal sounds like my brothers 2011 cummins. They say 99% of the problems those 6.7 cummins motors have are caused by the EGR dumping soot back into the motor.
 
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