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The 130 dollar 2002 GTP 40th Anv Edition

Green97GTP said:
went to pick n pull today, I got BBV,an injector, Vacport for the blower, and a EGR Valve, Dip stick tube, and some other random sensors, and a shift cable. cost me 24$ and sold the roof rails for 200...SO

Car -130
Gas -60
Roof rails +200
ods and ends -24
= Total money invested 14$
Click to expand...

You, sir, are a mad man. That is an absurd price.
 


Do you still need a harness? If so there is a u pull yard here in SD that has a 1997 Regal GS. and the harness is all there. they want $8.50 a foot. not sure how much that would be. LMK
 


LowRidinCrew said:
I need to know, how the hell you stumble upon this lol. I will look low and high for a "damage" fire gp now
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(copied from w-body)

My friend bought it and went to go pick it up and they didnt have the keys, so it was not loaded on the trailer, its 130 miles away and he gave 250$ for it. Today he said, i have the keys and title, But i dont want to mess with it. Said i could have it for 330 dollars (what he has into it) So i agreed, told him i would sell the 60gb ps3 and my games for 230 and get 100 dollars out of my checking account and buy it. He said he wanted a ps3, and would take it and 100 dollars. The ps3 i have i gave 30 dollars for (Ylod unit i fixed) so total money invested 130$
 
New dipstick tube
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Hello melted plastic meet shop-vac
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work area for tonight
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Dirty gunk
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Lookin better
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Some brackets i need to clean/paint
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done for tonight
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nice progress.. now would be a good time to take that nice hunnit dollar bill and buy some alum lim gaskets and change those while its tore down. and maybe get headers
 


On the past 30-40 intake gaskets i have did, for my self or at the dealer i worked for, i drain coolant out of the raid petcock, then do an oil change after its all done. Thanks for looking out though!

Tomorrow im probably going to install the gear selector cable i got, then pull the LIM out and clean the hell out of all the brackets and blower, and LIM, tb, and paint all the black brackets.
 
I hear ya.

I just like to dump oil down the vally, finish everything, drain oil, new oil, run for 10-15min, then drain and refill with new oil and filter for good measures.
 
that is kind of an over kill considering how much water gets in your oil every winter from condensation. But, i can see why you would do that.
 


The best i can tell would be A back valve cover (even though it doesnt look like its leaking its kinda dirty there...)

Or B (most logical to me) front injector on the drivers side. It was the Only injector burnt, and looking at the BBV, the fire was most deff Hottest there,
 
I assume while you are there, you are doing both VC gaskets and pulling off the metal heat shielf from the front manifold?

Looks good for the time invested.
 
also have wiring harness sourced for 45 shipped ot my door (WIN) that is UN-cut,

Next i need to find out what sensors i have laying around from old motor swaps, and what ones i don't. then i need to make a list of everything i need. So far on list for next j/y run

- weather stripping under hood
- valve covers (if i cant clean these up
- i know a sensor or 2
- brake reservoir (if i can buy just that)
-coolant overflow tank if i cant clean this one up

To Buy from parts store
-Valve cover gaskets
-injector o rings
-problem solver Metal LIMG
-tb gasket
-t-stat
-oil so i can change it (even though it looks new, hell the whole motor looks like it was babied inside)

-new head lights, 4300-5000k hids, (high and low)
Then i need to figure out fuel lines as i want a factory look, Im thinking cut factory fuel/purge valve where they meet the metal under the Break booster and splice factory ones in.
 
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