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TCC repair\freshening up...

BoiseGTP said:
Were you getting a code for the TCC? Is that why you pulled the pin?
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Nope, I had oscillating RPM going up hill\underslight load, disconnecting the TCC PWM solenoid stopped the behavior, but cost my 5 MPG in town (10MPG with it off, 15 with it on...I live in a SMALL town).
BillBoost37 said:
yes you can... to a degree a friction is a friction.
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The Raybestos is the bottom friction (with the wider patches), should I use it in the inside (closer to the hub) or the other one on the inside and the Raybestos on the outside (closer to the valve body)? Doesn't matter? lol
 


All that work and...it didn't work. Symptoms are basically the exact same, very little difference if any. Weird thing is We took it for a test drive and it was fine. Came home, topped off the fluid, and then the wife drove it to the store and said it still pulsed. I test drove it and it's the same damn thing as before. Could it be the TAPS needing to be reset? The battery was obviously disconnected for about 3 days, so that method has been tried.
 
I tried reseting the TAP's again with the disconnecting battery thing, an no dice. I've noticed my RPM drops to ~500RPM then comes back up to idle (1000) almost constantly once everything is up to temperature, and I am coasting in gear. At a stop, or in neutral, it stays rock solid.
 
I'm thinking it's either the converter or the valve body itself. Or something stupid with a sensor somewhere, but I'm hopfully getting ready to rule that out with a different MAF and TPS.
 


Again with the fail. I installed the new MAF and TPS, and it SEEMS like the RPM dropping while cruising problem is repaired, the TCC is still oscillating.
 
Yep, passed all continuity tests. I have a part 2000 GT, so I was thinking about pulling the valve body\channel plate, cleaning it up, and swapping it over...what do you guys think?
 
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I think you are getting really good at going in while it's in the car. You could do that.. then you'll know if it's any of the valves being sticky or sloppy.
 
No kidding, I was even thinking about putting in the new valve body before I goto work, lol (I have til 3:30 PM). If I do get that valve body out I'll swap over my new solenoids and possibly the Sonnax valve, depending on how it looks. I decided not to work on it til the weekend, but still try and pull valve body out of the parts car so I can go through every valve and channel to make sure it's all moving well and clean. I was also thinking about the TCC relief valve at the bottom of this page. If this doesn't fix I'll throw in the towel on this transmission. This is a last ditch effort cheap attempt to fix it.
 


I'll have to see what my time is this go around. I have to work on a tarp though, so it's not fun. I'm also looking at a Sonnax upgraded valve body and channel plate, but I'm seeing what exactly is upgraded and what not before I buy it. I figure I can always move this valve body over to whatever transmission I end up with if this one ends up being bad.
 
Okay, so valve body came in and I have some questions on it. It has a different looking PCS and TCC PWM solenoid than I do. Same plug from the looks of it, but it looks different. Everything else looks okay from what I can see, just wondering on the solenoids. I know the TCC PWM solenoid I bought was BWD, so should I use it instead?

Here's some pics.
Overall valve body:

Solenoids in question:

Various pictures:


Valve cover gaskets aren't always brittle, who knew!
 


Today, actually. Once my wife finishes breakfast, I eat it, talk about installing the valve body, then walk outside and talk about installing the valve body, then actually install the valve body. It's got VBX engraved on the CP and VB. VBX (Valve Body Xpress, for those that don't know) remanufactures valve bodies for Transtar and a few other places. What do you think of them Bill?
 
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