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Sway Bar

Iceman6669

Iceman6669

The Boss
Staff member
Soo i was doing my brakes the other day and noticed that part of my sway bar on my drivers side is busted. I have a few buddies with GP's and they have all had the same problem. I don't know if it is a common thing or not but any way my question is Since only the lower part of the connection is busted how huge of a deal is it that I get it fixed RIGHT NOW.... I plan on doing it when I do my struts and stuff but thats not going to be for a couple of weeks..
 


Thats what I thought.. the funny thing is I could tell something was wrong because of the way it felt in the steering wheel. So as I was doing my brakes I was doing a check of things like the wheel bearings, tie rods, Ball joints, cv axels, Sway bar DAM IT.... There was the problem.
 
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Time for a new Dorman bar from RockAuto. 34mm SOLID bar. Just may be a small PITA to get in there but well worth it. Should come w/ endlinks as well.
 
I got the gmpp one, came with stb and rear for $132, thought it was a hell of a deal seeing autozone wanted 120 just for the doorman front. Come to find out its hollow, and I believe somehow I installed it upside down, cuz its rubbing on on my dp.

Edit: just got done flipping mine so its correct now. Took about 1 1/2 hrs. With hand tools and floor jack.
 
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Easiest way to replace it unhook tie rod end from one side only push wheel all teh way forward unbolt bar pull out slide new one in takes 20 min
 
Logan541 said:
Easiest way to replace it unhook tie rod end from one side only push wheel all teh way forward unbolt bar pull out slide new one in takes 20 min
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Thats a lie, you can't just "slide it in"...

It took me two and a half hours to get the Dorman in, and it made a difference over having no sway bar like I had before.

Its just that it is like a 40 lb oblong tube, and you cant rotate it easily, and the steering arms get in the way and bleghhhh but you should do it. It's $100 at advance auto for the kit.
 
I figure it's easier to drop the rear subframe but that's the only way i've done it so i'm not sure how the other way is.
 
A local AAMCO shop charged me $50 for a tie-bar install (Dorman rod supplied by me).

Since they have a lift, it's easy for them.

On your back with stands and a floorjack, you will be fighting it for several hours.

$50, for me, was a no-brainer.

Also, my sway bar end had also cracked.

The new Dorman (33mm OD solid) greatly improved body roll.
 


Hippo Machine said:
Guess you will, because I was talking about the Dorman, not a flimsy hollow tube...
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lol. So, since they are the same dimensions, are you saying the GMPP bar bends like a rubber band to go in easier? Please elaborate on how your Dorman bar goes in harder than a GMPP bar does.
 
if i replace mine should i go ahead and buy the reinforced one that i keep seeing on slp performance and crap that says its better than stock parts or w/e....i think the dimensions are a little stranger than factory but supposedly better
not sure
 


Silver GTP said:
lol. So, since they are the same dimensions, are you saying the GMPP bar bends like a rubber band to go in easier? Please elaborate on how your Dorman bar goes in harder than a GMPP bar does.
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I think he's saying it's way lighter and thus easier to install (similar to how aluminum heads are faster to install than cast heads etc).

I can say that laying on by back, crouching down, that manhandling the solid Dorman sway brace is not somthing I would like to mess with. With little leverage, so close to the ground, it would be a bastard as it weighs a ton.
 
iamsam2010 said:
if i replace mine should i go ahead and buy the reinforced one that i keep seeing on slp performance and crap that says its better than stock parts or w/e....i think the dimensions are a little stranger than factory but supposedly better
not sure
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Probably the best option for you would be the Dorman bar that is being discussed. It is readily available, a cheap price and an upgrade over stock.

Hippo Machine said:
Umm a hollow tube is much lighter than a solid tube.
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Dorman sway bar 927-100 21.7 lbs. I don't want to discriminate against anybody who's muscularly challenged, but I don't see how that weight would add difficulty to the install.
 
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