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Steering Rack Questions

Q

quickster

New member
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3800 Series 3.

My daughter went and had her steering gear leak checked out. Mechanic said passenger side seal was leaking, steering gear mount bushings were shot, and would probably be better to just replace the steering gear. I haven't taken a look yet, but need some advice. How hard is it to change the seal and bushings? If it is better to change the steering gear, how do I know which one to get? When I looked it up on O'Reillys site, I see variable or non-variable effort steering (N40,NV7,NV8), magnasteer or non-magnasteer. O'Reillys sell Cardone, Autozone sells Durlalast, Napa sells its own brand. Just looking for some direction here. I will try to do this work myself. Thanks.
 
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I have had a duralast one in my car for about 6 months now with no problems. It's not to bad to swap it out it took me about 1.5 hours the first time and about 30-45 min the second time after my junkyard rack was bad.
 
Thanks dsmuts.
Is it necessary to remove the steering rack to replace the bushings? Seal? Will the Vin # determine which steering rack goes on this car, if I do decide to change it out?
 
I'm not sure about replacing seals because I've never done them. If you look at the rack and on the drivers side it should have writes on it if it's magnasteer
 
The RPO codes in 97-03 were on the trunk lid. If you take a look at your RPO codes, it should be listed there by the codes you mentioned.
 
In my experience it is better/easier to change the entire rack out than it is to pull the rack and change the seals/bushings. Heck, I don't even know if you can get seals for the rack.

I would just replace the whole rack.
 


this is the write up do do a rack swap http://www.grandprixforums.net/04_rack_replacement.php

first time out this job WILL take up to 4 hours to complete.

you dont need to pull the air box, or master cylinder, the lines hes talking about can be gotten from underneath the car with ease.

defiantly drop the cradle 2 inches, it makes a difference, drop the cradle and then un bolt the sway bar from the frame, it adds room to get to the bolts, and helps get the rack out the side wheel well opening. and its tight, like giving birth tight.

when you pull the intermediate shaft, make sure the steering wheel is locked, don't let any one play with it aka spin it around like a 5 year old, the clock spring will break, and a new one, well, they cost a lot.

worst part may be getting the intermediate shaft back on the new rack, what i did was line up the old and new racks and tried my best to match up the nub the shaft sits on, and when i put the rack in it was real close, i had a friend wiggle the wheel a bit and it slid right on, others have fought with it for hours, its the possible pita part.
 
Thank you all for your input,tips,and advice. I took a look, and all I found was that the steering rack mounting bolt on the drivers side was loose. Tightened it up, checked the passengers side while I was under there, it was nice and tight, and all was well. No problem with the bushings. The seal on the drivers side has signs of seeping, but the reservoir is full, and I haven't added any fluid in a few months. So, we'll keep an eye on things, and thinking it should get through the winter. If it gets worse by Spring, I'll change it out according to scottydoggs instructions. Car rides, sounds, and steers great now. Thanks again everyone.

What does RPO stand for? And what in there will tell me which steering rack goes on this car, when the time comes.
 
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