• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Some more top swap questions! Yay!

suitercrew said:
Ok so i dont need the by pass solenoid correct just leave the actuator open to atmosphere. Also do you know what size vacc lines ill need?

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Correct that's full boost. I just got my lines at advamced auto parts I believe 7/32 and 5/32 fit well I remember having to use two different sizes and get a union because the map sensor nipped is bigger then the fpr
 


I meant like a plastic T connector to hook the fpr and map sensor to the LIM nipple I was able to find a T connector that fit my 5/32" hose to my fpr and my 7/32" map hose together then hooked them to the LIM I think the T connector was like 3/16" it's been a while though just go to the parts store test fit things for sizing.
 
For sure thanks for the help would the vac line from the bbv and the tree probably be 7/32 too then?

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You can either run the wiring from the ECM to the solenoid to allow the PCM to control boost (kills boost in reverse and traction control) or program traction control off. Also if you are running the SD headers without a cat the rear O2 is pointless. It will just set a code. Needs to be programmed off. (Or buy an EBay cat and weld or clamp in and use the spark plug non-fouler trick)
 


if you car is like mine, if your traction control is off then you won't lose boost. I'm not sure what changes I have in my tune for traction control. if you don't turn off your traction control, then the engine will cut boost and power. I have a button I push to turn off the TC.
 
Ok i have that button to so as long as it turn it off everytime i start the car im golden!

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TC defaults to on when the car is started for safety reasons. When wheel slip is detected boost is released, timing is pulled, and fuel cut to reduce engine power. I don't know the algorithm as to what is first, the aggressiveness, etc. I would think if the ECM is commanding the boost control solenoid to open to actuate the valve and it doesn't see a reduction in boost, it would think the bcs is malfunctioning and set a code. That is only my guess. I am still N/A till I do my top swap when it gets warmer. You can program the ECM to default to TC off so you don't have to push the button each time. If I had the time and software I would reverse engineer the TC and make it more performance based and less nanny.
 
I just bought zzp's traction control thing it's a couple wires you hook up to the traction control button harness in your dash it was really easy. So basically when you start the car traction control is always off if you want it on just press the button.
 


Hmm well ill look into both i guess i would always like to have the ability to turn it back on if i was on really wet ore icy roads

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when my abs worked, lol tc got turned off if the roads were wet at all. nothing like pulling out in traffic and the engine falling on its face and getting t boned.

my car would hardly move in snow too with tc on, its worthless and is of no help to me at all. turn it off, add wheel spin car moves like magic all of a sudden.
 
Are all aeroforce gauges the same i found a guy selling an aeroforce a aem wideban and a phantom 2 boost gauge for 200$ is this a good deal?

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