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Yupp that's another reason why I had zzp weld my coolant holes shut because of what I went through and I didn't want to rely on dimes that could potentially ruin my whole motor again if you know what I mean
Ya i just said screw it i figured the gaskets orings are better then dimes and ill probably want to take it apart and put an intercooler on way before the orings go bad
Yea I agree with you but most people do it anyways because it's dumb to have hot coolant running into the supercharger it just heat soaks the heaton even more lol
When you intercool it the coolant holes have to be welded shut though. But remember when I told you it's alot more then you think to do a top swap? Lol I wasn't kidding after I got done with mine I thought to myself it would have been easier and cheaper to find a low mileage L67 and just change the motor.
The best i could do atleast locally was find an l67 for 1000$ that had 180k. Im probably 1000$ invested so far, i get to keep my 95xxx mile bottom end, replace all the gaskets and fluids, and add headers and a tune for that much. So although easier for sure not so much cheaper from my pov
So im ready to put the new head on i think my dad told me not to bother cleaning the piston tops because its not really worth the risk of possibly getting crap down in the cylinder and damaging the piston rings
you can bring each piston to the top, smear some grease around the outer edge. if you got air you can just as easy blow any carbon out of the groove too.
tops of my l36 were nasty, like 3mm thick of carbon, i cleaned em up.
do clean the threaded holes out good. make sure they are oil free, brake cleaner and some Q tips works well. this way the bolts are tq'ed properly.
you can put a dab of grease on the top of the push rods and a smear on the valve spring stem too. keeps you from having a bone dry start up. just a little bit of grease, you dont need a whole lot.