• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Some more top swap questions! Yay!

How do i know which ones i will need them with? If i find zzp modified rockers those woikdnt need new ones right?

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Hmmm ok well ill do some research then, maybe email zzp. Thanks scotty!

Is there any benefit of getting different pushrods besides the ones you need for your set up? Like are some lighter or flow better?

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ZZP modified rockers are modified stock rockers so you do not need to replace pushrods. Yella Terra requires a longer pushrod. Sometimes you may need a stronger or shorter length pushrod depending on setup, heads decked, etc. Not a performance gain item so much as just the correct length/strength.

Biggest benefit is cam or rockers. Then replace springs with right retainers to match cam. For high rpm titanium locks, retainers, etc reduce weight to gain a few rpm before float. Pushrods are correct length and strength. And timing chain may need to be upgraded (along with other mods to fit double roller) if additional strength is needed based on aggressiveness of cam.

For your discussions I would recommend the YT rockers and pushrods from Intense or ZZP modified rockers. Replace springs, stem seals, and retainers. Consider replacing timing chain, dampener, and / or gear set. Ensure heads and valves are good and run it. Maybe a little head work if you want to spend $.

Next step up would be keep the stock rockers and run a mild cam. My recommendation personally.

Don't forget in all of this to get supporting mods including intake, exhaust, and tuning. Bolt on top swap seems to get a little expensive! Haha
 
adding to what brettstoner said here. seriously don't over look your supporting mods. on my first topswap build i had ZZP stainless headers, a 3" TOG DP with a 200 cell cat and an intake. that probably would have worked fine but it needed finer tuning and in the end i chipped a piston. on this build i installed a S1x cam and Ls7 lifters, also 90# springs and im still crossing my fingers
 
So i finally got a valve spring remover today so i took out all the old valves and cleaned up the insides and did notice a crack in between the exaust and intake valve openings on one cylinder. I have gotten mixed information some people say its not a big deal others say differently so which one is it?

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suitercrew said:
So i finally got a valve spring remover today so i took out all the old valves and cleaned up the insides and did notice a crack in between the exaust and intake valve openings on one cylinder. I have gotten mixed information some people say its not a big deal others say differently so which one is it?

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Click to expand...

90percent of 3.8s have that crack..it's fine.
 
90% of our heads probably have the valve to valve crack. It took me several sets of heads to find good ones. Will the crack spread or open up into the water jacket..... Who knows. Maybe have your local shop check them. Maybe you can run them another 100k and be fine.

I personally did not feel comfortable with cracks worried they may open up into the water jacket or cause a hot spot on the edge and get preignition. Running boost I wanted to be more conservative personally but there are many stories of guys on here running cracked heads without problems. I would evaluate how big and deep the crack is. What is your tolerance to risk, reliability, how much boost, and how long will you have the car. Many people run cracked heads and are fine.
 
Do i need a new valve theres these scratches on it multiple this is the furthest one down the stem.

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Well when i slid it out of the valve guide it definately didnt come out like the other valves. A little extra gentle pulling was required

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Ok thanks guys i was gonna go to my dads and use his wire wheel grinder to clean the valves anyway so that works out.

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How do the exhaust valves and seats look? When I was pulling heads most of the exhaust valves and seats were pretty pitted and I ended up doing a valve job to get good sealing.
 
Ill take a look when i go in tge garage but i think all the seats looked fine even where the crack is it still looks flush. I planned on lapping all of them anyway though.

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Ok so i was just now able to get all the valves cleaned up and the intake ones look good but like you said the exaust valves are pitted

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mine were pretty bad but cleaned up pretty nice.

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after lapping some, the exhaust got more time lapping to finish it off.

003_zps9vlim5fq.jpg
 
About how long should i lap them for im kinda scared ill grind them down to much haha

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