• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Some more top swap questions! Yay!

I read a how to on 3800 pro and that guy was talking about how you had to jack it up remove the pasenger strut and obviously tire and caliper. Then unbolt the whole motor so you can drop the passenger side like 8 inches to even have access to the cam. That although doesnt seem like "hard" work it deffinately seems like a "lot" of work haha

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Ooooo.. well sh*t all have to read further in the how to then. Is there anything you need to do when installing a new cam? Obviously im assuming springs and retainers. Youd probably do the timing chain too right?

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you would have to replace the timing chain at a minimum. if you do a valve spring stronger than 105's most people suggest a double roller timing chain and if you do the double roller you will need a machined oil pump cover and/or 2 timing cover gaskets because the chain is thicker. lot's of people just do a stock replacement timing chain with 105's and a S1X cam. and when you change the springs, you will need LS style beehive retainers, new locks and new seals.
 


ScottyDoggs said:
you only take the wheel off, and the plastic splash shield to get the balancer off. had mine off countless times, never dropped the frame.


cam install your dropping the sub frame for sure.
Click to expand...

didn't know that, I always thought the subframe would have to be lowered for the HB to be removed
 
Ya idk i need to asses my goals i dont want to be putting down a sh*t ton of power on a dd stock tranny

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follow the scottydoggs route and do the top swap with rockers and a stock transmission. you should be fine like that.
 


Can someone tell me what this is i have one on both my heads and from the junk rtv or jb weld job it doesnt look factory.

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that there was a junk yard engine at some point, they put those there to know if you over heated the engine. they fall off when over heated.

you can pop it off. i took them off my na engines freeze plugs.
 
Well good to know! Can anyone here explain or show me pictures if how the sc pulles get set up. I found some pictures in google but the problem i have is the guy dissasembled the motor i bought so it would be easier to lift and then put all the bolts in a huge bag so now i have no idea where things go and what bolts are used where.

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water pump hose inlet, under it, see the two bolts in the flat area. take those two out, install the stand and pulley with its bolts int he same holes.

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the stand in place on my old dirty ass engine lol

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see the stud sticking off the head, install it there then put the coil bracket on, the tensioner then slides over the stud and gets bolted on.

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I am working on a top swap as we speak. We technically gathering parts waiting for warmer weather. LOL. I went through several sets of heads to find 2 good ones that weren't cracked. Very common to find cracks between cylinders. Many say ok to run on here but my head guy said no guarantee it won't open up over time into the water jacket. He says maybe 1 out of 10 don't have cracks! I would run new 90 springs (or higher to match cam change) and new retainers (stock retainers wont work with LS based springs). Can reuse keepers if careful to not lose them. I also replaced all the pulleys as preventative maintenance on the pulley bearings.

You can add wiring from the ECM for the boost bypass solenoid to keep traction control or run without it (TCS programmed off).

Upgrade the MAP and splice connector. (I am 04 and need to run wiring for the second MAP, (MAP and Baro). One reads atmosphere, other reads engine.

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Okayy so i have a problem i have the tensioner and the coil bracket but thats it. Am i missing a part? That metal bracket right under the wayer pump inlet i dont have

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