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Smelling gas while idling after l67 swap

Bluemagic

Bluemagic

New member
Ok I've begin to smell a hint of gas in my car while idling. I've checked around and I didn't smell it in my engine so where else should I b looking?

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Also check your fuel injectors. I had an injector leak when I swapped in a new motor and it was spraying from the rail filling up a divot on the LIM. Talk about scary, lol...
 
Since you didn't smell it around your engine, could you of possibly wiggled the fuel line enough to cause a small break? Have you checked your fuel lines running from the tank to the engine?
 
Well the smell has magically disappeared. Next on the list is this massive exhaust Leak lol. Any ideas as to why the smell is gone?

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Maybe the smell left because of "Blue magic"??? :th_laugh-lol2: Anyway, maybe whatever was leaking has shifted to the point where you can't smell it? Maybe check the evap lines. Had one on my Bonne get rubbed through and was smelling fuel fumes. Took a while to figure that one out as it was hidden under the battery tray on the Bonne. Not sure where the lines are on the GP.
 
If I remember correctly, an exhaust leak will cause it to run um... rich? So, maybe you're smelling unburnt fuel in the ehxaust... until the exhaust heated up enough to get a decent seal around a gasket?

But yeah, if I smell fuel on a 3800, I immediately check to see if it's pooling up around the injectors. That's going to be the source of the engine fire. The o-rings eventually go bad, and the rail is aluminum - and bends fairly easily - say, when installing headers... or spark plugs...
 
I checked everything and no leak, i do agree with the exhaust Leak though. I need to fix that asap.

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Fuel hose cracked on the top of the fuel Rail. Need a fix asap. What can I do?

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Looks like it is leaking where the nylon line meets the 90* elbow. If that is the case, then cut off the elbow on the line side far enough back to get clean nylon line. Take a ride to your local parts store and pick up what is called a "nylon fuel line union". Should be a double-ended barbed fitting. 3/8" diameter.

Get a pot of boiling water on the stove, then pour it into a cup or other useable container and run out to the car. Soak the nylon line in the water for at least 3 minutes, which will allow the line to soften up a bit. Remove the cup of water and quickly insert the barbed fitting into the line. If you can only get it on the first barb or so then leave it be and soak the line (which now has the union in it) again in hot water and press it in further. I found that a small block of wood worked well for this so as not to punch a hole in the palm of my hand, lol... Once the nylon line gets a good way up the union, let the line cool.

One word of caution- If you heat the line too much you run the risk of cracking it again. Also, be sure to press straight on the union or it could deform the line. I suppose you could also put a small clamp here if you want to.

Now that you have the union on the nylon side, time to get the FUEL INJECTION RATED rubber line on the other end of the union. Then just slip it onto the fuel rail and use 2 clamps on it to ensure a tight fit, as you really don't want ~50psi of fuel coating your engine bay if the line pops off.

Fire it up and check for leaks. It may take a second or 2 of cranking to re-prime the line since you had it open, but it should fire up just fine.
 


I just cut the elbow off on my buddies car and put a foot of rubber fuel injection line on as far as i could push it onto the remaining plastic line and put 2 clamps on each end
 
As for the exhaust leak its probably with the DP gasket or your resonator cracked. Did you support the exhaust when you did the swap? I didn't and ended up cracking the res right where the pipe is welded in, very thin metal.
 
Yup it's the downpipe gasket. Had quite the struggle tightening the bolts.

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