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Rust Repair Help

thekidinbuff

thekidinbuff

New member
I have searched the high and low lands for the correct procedure and have an idea of the steps that need to be taken. But not feeling confident in any of it. I did read the Garage Painting forum. The sanding and bondo if needed part i understand. My biggest worry is the paint not matching in the end. In the Duplicolor video, he puts clear coat on and thats it. But some people wet sand that and then buff it. I obviously want to do what will come out the best. So someone push me in the right direction please. :th_scratchhead:

Was looking to use Duplicolor Perfect Match. Ive heard mixed feelings about it though. The car is a Rebuilt car too so i think the front half of the car has been repainted.

Heres what im dealing with:

IMG_20150721_2041361_zpstmhxhpry.jpg


IMG_20150721_2041051_zpsvuiaj5ir.jpg


IMG_20150721_2041131_zpskmtlmcjy.jpg
 


I can advise you somewhat on this but don't have time at the moment. This evening I can return. Quick tip is buy a bottle of touch up paint in the color you intend to use and eyeball the match quality. If color match is poor, you will need to find a helpful local body shop supply outlet that can mix paint using professional grade products.
 
The car was bought from a body shop guy actually. and he gave me touch up paint in a container with a brush (i think it was from when he painted the car) and it practically matches when it dries around the entire car. Thats what i cover the marks up on the front with. Its a little lighter though. But theres no clear coat over the touch up, if that would make a difference?

Yes later is fine. Im in no rush with this. Wont be back till later either
 
fixing the bumpers is very do able, ive repainted both, the front had a crack i fixed, the rear looked like some one needed parking lessons

tintedtails4.jpg


to this.

backbumpertopredone_zps312c3fe1.jpg


bumper4_zpse6de2e8f.jpg


yes i wet sanded the clear coat and use a HF buffer to make it shine like that.

the front.

ran out of filler but its the bottom and still holds tight, the back side is mudded up with some mesh.

bumperrepair_zpsc785748f.jpg


back on, the front is just cleared, not wet sanded and buffed. i ran out of enthusiasm lol

bumperdone2_zps158a66b8.jpg




in your case it looks like you could fix and blend the repair area in. mine need full re paints as the paint was missing on the top flat parts, looked like hell. both bumper cost about 50 in paint clear prep spray and supplys. 3 cans of duplicolor per bumper, one whole can of clear per bumper, you get like 3 good coats out of one can of clear.
 
The issue of color match is this-

If it has been repainted all over with body shop refinish paint, DC may not even be close. DC makes one product for that paint code whereas the refinish paint may offer a half dozen variants. Previous owner probably used the "prime" formula but who knows in what brand.

Yes, clearcoat darkens colors. What you have in the bottle is probably what the PO sprayed it with so it should match as exactly as possible.

I suggested trying a small container of the paint you intend to use, in case it does match well enough for you. Read instructions on the can to see if it must be clearcoated but I believe the DC can go with or without. Clear could help you blend things in though, and possibly reduce the amount of required polishing for appearance.

Keep your rust repair as small as possible. Primer will be required to put back the missing paint thickness where yours is chipped, if you are wanting to featheredge that by sanding to help the edge go away.

The bumper is either torn or has a cake of loose bodyfiller on it. Real bodywork required there, all you can do is make it one color I guess.

The quarter just has clear peeling. Try just clear on that. Watch out with the masking tape though, all that clear in the area may be ready to peel off.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
fixing the bumpers is very do able, ive repainted both, the front had a crack i fixed, the rear looked like some one needed parking lessons

tintedtails4.jpg


to this.

backbumpertopredone_zps312c3fe1.jpg


bumper4_zpse6de2e8f.jpg


yes i wet sanded the clear coat and use a HF buffer to make it shine like that.

the front.

ran out of filler but its the bottom and still holds tight, the back side is mudded up with some mesh.

bumperrepair_zpsc785748f.jpg


back on, the front is just cleared, not wet sanded and buffed. i ran out of enthusiasm lol

bumperdone2_zps158a66b8.jpg




in your case it looks like you could fix and blend the repair area in. mine need full re paints as the paint was missing on the top flat parts, looked like hell. both bumper cost about 50 in paint clear prep spray and supplys. 3 cans of duplicolor per bumper, one whole can of clear per bumper, you get like 3 good coats out of one can of clear.
Click to expand...



Awl man I was expecting it to turn into a Grand Prix :( but nope still a damn Regal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 




idrivejunk said:
The issue of color match is this-

If it has been repainted all over with body shop refinish paint, DC may not even be close. DC makes one product for that paint code whereas the refinish paint may offer a half dozen variants. Previous owner probably used the "prime" formula but who knows in what brand.

Yes, clearcoat darkens colors. What you have in the bottle is probably what the PO sprayed it with so it should match as exactly as possible.

I suggested trying a small container of the paint you intend to use, in case it does match well enough for you. Read instructions on the can to see if it must be clearcoated but I believe the DC can go with or without. Clear could help you blend things in though, and possibly reduce the amount of required polishing for appearance.

Keep your rust repair as small as possible. Primer will be required to put back the missing paint thickness where yours is chipped, if you are wanting to featheredge that by sanding to help the edge go away.

The bumper is either torn or has a cake of loose bodyfiller on it. Real bodywork required there, all you can do is make it one color I guess.

The quarter just has clear peeling. Try just clear on that. Watch out with the masking tape though, all that clear in the area may be ready to peel off.
Click to expand...


Im not worried about the amount of hours i spend on it, it will just drive me insane if it doesnt match up lol. Actually under every wheel well now, the paint is 'unsticking' itself from the metal.. i dont think theres really even any rust. the ones in the photos have been exposed for months here, even through the new york salt. Thats how the drivers side from happened, with some help of the friendly 'touchless' car wash.

The front bumper has a patch on the inside of it if i remember now.. its pretty sturdy so i think im good with just some sanding, primer and paint.

Now for everyone of these areas, should i just sand, paint that exact, small area or do i have to do the like entire bumper? Especially with the driver fender. id probably do the entire wheel well though actually.

And does anyone have detailed instructions, or procedure with what grit sand paper they use and all? Any links?

ScottyDoggs, that looks pretty good. that first picture of the repaired rear bumper looks a little flat tho or is it just the pic?


Thank you guys in advance, you guys seem better than the professionals lol.
 
Well, I actually am a pro but don't hold it against me. Here are some basics for you to digest, written by me years ago but still applicable. The DupliColor stuff is all lacquer as far as I know, for reference as you read this. Theres really not a discussion of painting here but I can guide you. If you decide to use pro-grade products and do a spray booth job, you'll have to tell me what brand you'll be using. See your local source and remember to consult technical data sheets that are available on all paint manufacturer's websites for all products they offer. Directions for use, must read. With pro (body shop) refinish products, you normally apply color as needed and clear the whole panel when possible.

If you're gonna do a spray bomb job then no, it will look best to leave as much old paint as possible showing and save it with some care. Then do your small spot repairs. Just my opinion, and if you had a metallic color I would not recommend trying to get away with rattle can repairs at all. Mine is black and has spots of DC all over the place but nobody notices. Red is harder to match, black is no-brain. I could get into pros and cons of using clearcoat and paint types but man I gotta watch at least one black and white 50s TV show before I crash out today. Think on this, maybe do more research or post specific questions after reading at these links:

http://forums.hotrod.com/high-performance-pontiac/70/9074998/body-paint-upgrade/primers/

http://forums.hotrod.com/high-performance-pontiac/70/9117144/body-paint-upgrade/sanding/

http://forums.hotrod.com/high-performance-pontiac/70/8346585/body-paint-restoration/fixing-rust/
 
thekidinbuff said:
ScottyDoggs, that looks pretty good. that first picture of the repaired rear bumper looks a little flat tho or is it just the pic?
Click to expand...


the first pic is what it looked like when i got the car, its got nicks all over it, all needed to be sanded smooth, then filled, and sanded, and sanded some more. then it got primed, painted, and cleared, then put back on the car and wet sanded and buffed.
 
So ive read and read those articles again. And probably will read them more. Those are very good, so thank you. I understand that epoxy primer is the best to use but they dont really sell that in a can, unless you want to pay $25 a can for it, that i find. Im guessing ScottyDoggs used the Duplicolor Primer?

But would something like this work for primer?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...tomotive-Primer-Spray-Paint-2081830/100169179
It doesnt say its for plastic but it says it is for metal. Theres definitely alot to learn.
 


If you plan to read again, good that means the old forum posts weren't too awful long. I tried to break the topics into sections for better quick reference. The thing to do is select a paint "system" and stay within that. So... since you posted an aerosol primer I'll assume its gonna be a rattle can job. Nothing wrong with that considering the value of what we're working on. Epoxy primer is out, lacquer primer from a rattle can is in. Theres probably no need to even use self-etching primer on your little rust spot.

I have never tried the Rustoleum primer but I have used the Duplicolor "sandable primer" (in white) which is part of the paint system you probably intend to use. Works pretty good for what it is, and its fairly cheap. Get red so its easier to cover. Like the DAP1694 or 1687 shown here:

http://www.duplicolor.com/product/sandable-primer

If your local auto parts store does not stock what you want but does carry DC touch up paint, they can probably get what you want. Shake primer a LONG time before use.

The basic application tips for painting from DupliColor themselves may be more like what you are needing to read up on. Theres a link at the bottom of the page above, but this will take you there directly:

http://www.duplicolor.com/assets/documents/application-tips.pdf

Try that one, it may be more helpful. My writings are directed towards the high road using pro grade products, but the DC page is about aerosols.
 
You're articles may be long but they're well written. That Duplicolor pdf is really useful too. Only thing that im not sure of, (which i may keep missing it) is what grit paper should i use on the paint thats still on the car, around the spot with rust/baremetal? I guess ill have to feather edge it right? Everyone does it differently. The paint seems thicker than normal..
 
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