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rotor touching ebrake, wheel hard to turn.

What is likely is that you pad slapped it w/o loosening the MC cover..which held pressure and didn't allow you to push the piston all the way in.
 


did you compress the caliper all the way when you opened it up to put the new pads in?

if its the pads that are tight to the rotor, either you didn't open the piston all the way or the caliper is damaged.

i use a large C clamp, and the old pad on the piston to close the piston. it should be all the way in, and almost flush with the inside of the caliper.
 
Scottydoggs said:
its a star wheel under the hub, you want to close it a bit, put the rotor back on make sure its free. may take a few adjustments.

pic5.JPG
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BillBoost37 said:
Scott.. I see that's a non W body photo based on the screw hole in the hub. I'm not 100% sure if we have an adjuster or if it's just the sucky cable driven thingy. Cause that horseshoe isn't really seperate pads. It's one suckball setup that tortures the fack out of anyone doing a bearing.
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Hey bill mine stock hubs had a hole like that in the hub and there was a screw threw the rotor and unto hub
 
right..but you are newer.

Most older GM's used a round piece with a cut inside that slid over the stud to hold the rotors on during the assembly process. Typically it's the newer or japcrap that used screws.
 


raverockstar said:
Sorry I was replying while working on it.
I meant.

I guess it wasn't just the ebrake.
It was the brakes themselves too.

There's the caliper bolts and 2 more for brake adjustment I guess.
I released them a little.
ha5a7emu.jpg


I left them half open. Is it good?
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SWEET BABY JESUS!!

Make sure you pushed the piston all the way back in. Pop the hood, take the cover off the master cylinder (where you add brake fluid), put an old pad over the piston on the caliper (remove the new pads first), and use a large C-clamp to push the piston all the way back into the caliper. Put the caliper back onto the bracket and put those two bolts back in and tighten them up...like...tight...those bolts aren't adjustments - they are the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket, and if they come loose/come out, your caliper will come off the bracket...Then whatcha got? Nothing good...

When I replaced my pads/rotors a couple of weeks ago, I couldn't get the caliper back over the new rotor with the new pads in place. It just plain wouldn't fit. It was because I hadn't separated the caliper from the bracket. I had just taken the 2 bolts out that hold the bracket to the knuckle, and went on my merry way. Once I took the bolts out holding the caliper to the bracket, I was able to get everything seated properly and had no issues. Basically, what I'm saying is, go back to it, take JUST those 2 bolts out, recess the piston, re-seat the new pads, put the caliper back on and bolt it to the bracket and see what happens...
 
I think maybe the rotor suck. I just bought a new one.

All the money I spend on this car I could buy a Ferrari

I'll let u know if the rotor works.
 
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BillBoost37 said:
You bought 1 $20 rotor? If that's buying you a ferrari... when did Hot Wheels go up on their prices that much?
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I wish it was only a rotor. $40.
Everyday there's something new needed a fix/replacement.

Btw I figured the problem.

The rotor was ok. It was the ebrake and the caliper.

I closed the ebrake all the way. It's still rubbing a little.

The bracket on one side is too tight. I had to unscrew one of the a little till the brakes will get a shape.

Tnx for helping everyone.
 


Plaese make sure your car insurance is paid up. You should not ever loosen a caliper bolt to make it work. Something is wrong there.
 
I'm not sure what is the name for this bolt. But one of the bolts that has sleeve was over tighten from before.
That makes the brake more tight on one side than the other.

The old brakes had wear one one side more.

What i did was loosen it a bit to the normal place.

You cannot unscrew the bolt by hand. U need pressure.

This bolt cannot come out.
 
I'm reading into this and hearing. "My caliper pin is frozen, I loosened the bolt to compensate" Which is the wrong thing to do.
 


This is how it should work. The bolts at the edge of the caliper hold the caliper into the bracket via the pin. The pin slides in and out of the caliper to let the brakes work. The bracket is held to the knuckle via two bolts.
 
BillBoost37 said:
This is how it should work. The bolts at the edge of the caliper hold the caliper into the bracket via the pin. The pin slides in and out of the caliper to let the brakes work. The bracket is held to the knuckle via two bolts.
Click to expand...

So I'm talking about the knuckle.
One of the bolts was over screwed in. Which pressing the brake too tight on one side. Which is wrong cz the other bolt of the knuckle is screwed all the way but fine. But the bolt on the right side is over screwed. I opened it a little bit so it will be even.
 
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