• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

roll cage/ gutted interior



FoSHO99 said:
This has most of this stuff already covered...
ClubGP Message Forum troubleshooting



IMG_1601.jpg
Click to expand...


I think that may be taking it a little far. But it would be nice to see how it holds up over time. IMO, the sub frame is the one thing I would not want to modify, since that is the main support for the whole front end of the car, and taking the abuse of all the force that the motor puts on it as well. Looks nice though.
 
From what I can see it looks ti be done.right. everything is. Centered and on support.braces.for the.most part. So it is fully functional to an extent. I would not have done the lateral bars based on what I can see here

Kindle Fire: The Keyboard Sucks, So Please Forgive Mass Misspelling
 


I'm confused on something though.

You added 100lbs or more of wiring to move your fusebox, now you wanna save weight. Odd thought process you have there.
 
Another good example would be Ron Vogels' car, but threads of his weight reduction pics are hard to find.

I have the interior gutted from the rear seats back, the problem I have is living on a gravel road, the dust just rolls in and it's going to be a pain to seal everything up. Also the 3rd brake light needs to be covered or everytime I hit the brakes at night it lights up everything. I can fit my slicks and all tools pretty easily for the track.

I'd like to gut mine, get manual windows and use some sheet metal to dress it up so it doesn't look like complete crap in there.
 


kygtp said:
I have gutted my interior some what and have gotten the car down to around 3000. I took out the rear seats, all the rear speakers, BUT put the rear cover back in place since it only weighs about a pound or so. Passanger seat is removed, AC delet, with everything that goes with it. Cruise control is gone. Alum sub frame up front. Rear Steel bumper support is removed, the front support has a pretty big peice cut off of it for my Frozen boost FMHE. Everything in the truck in gone that I could pull out as well.

I still have all my panels in the car, since they do not weigh a whole lot, plus it makes the car look nicer with them in place. I still have speakers in the door, so I can listen to tunes when I do drive it on the street. I have a full dash still as well. I think that is all that I can remember off the top of my head.

The only problem is, is I hope with my new build that I will dip into the low 11's, but that means I will have to put a cage in, and I will be back to where I was, with the added weight. But that is ONLY if I can get there..........
Click to expand...

Have you weighed it?

Because I dont buy 400-500 lbs of weight reduction with a few interior pieces.
 
matt5112 said:
Have you weighed it?

Because I dont buy 400-500 lbs of weight reduction with a few interior pieces.
Click to expand...

Yes I have and I dont buy it either.

I realize now that in my first sentence that it comes across as just interior parts, but if you read on in my responce I list everything else that I have taken off the car that I can remember taking off. The last time that I weighed it at the track it was 3050 with me OUT of the car.
 
what's the weight difference from a steel to alum subframe? What's needed to make it fit? or does it just bolt up? I have mother natures weight reduction in my car and it's just getting lighter everyday.
 


So ill gut the car and when I change the subframe ill build the trans and xpz build unless someone buys the car before I have the funds
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top