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Replacing hubs, front LCA's and inner tie rods - Specialty tools?

Z

zguy

New member
I just finished replacing struts all the way around plus installed new tires. As it turns out I still have more work to do. One of my lower control arms in the front have a bad bushing plus both front hubs are bad. I also have play in one of my inner tie rods. I just got all the parts from Rock Auto. Damn, that place is great. I ordered yesterday using ground shipping and got them today.


Anyway, I am going to install everything this weekend. What specialty tools do I need? I don't mind renting any tools if it helps make my life easier.


Hubs
- Will this work?
Auto Zone Axle Flange Puller


Inner tie rod
- I am guessing I can remove the outer most boot clip with pliers and break the inner clamp off of the boot. During reassembly I can reuse the outer clip but use a zip tie on the inner part of the boot.
- For the inner tie rod can I use the following?
Autozone Inner Tie Rod Tool


Lower control arms
- What do I need to separate the ball joint? This?
Auto Zone Ball joint separator


I would appreciate any suggestions...
 


for the hubs. Just remove the axles nut and smack the axle end with a rubber mallet, or thread the nut on 2 turns and hit it with your hammer, that will break it away from the hub and allow the hub to come out. Then remove the 3 hub bolts and it'll come right out. No need for a puller


And the ball joint can be popped out with a long pry bar.
 
The inner tie rod tool is going to be the most useful, other than that you can just use basic tools for the most part.
 
On the tierod boots i used zipties to hold the inner one on. My ball joints just spun in the knuckle so i had to cut mine off.
 
when bill did my trans swap to get the ball joins off, he used like a 4 foot bar, laid it over the lca and slid it under the car, and then stood and bounced on it, i believe he smacked the side with a hammer but not sure.

iirc you need a t 55 or t 55 .5 and a 21 or 22 mm wrench to get the 2 bolts off to remove the whole lca.
 


Thanks for the replies. I'll make sure I have a t55 as well. Any idea what size the axle nut is? I have a 36mm but it has a little play in it. I wonder if it is a 35mm. If so I will have to run out and get one.
 
Oh I forgot to add...

I have a 1/2 impact gun. I know you do not want to use it when you put the new hubs in but is there any reason why I can't use it to remove the axle nut?
 
I just realized something... I ordered Dorman control arms. I know it isn't Moog but I thought it was still a decent part. I started searching on the web about Dorman and the comments do not look that positive. Looking back though I do not think it was so smart as I put better quality parts on else where so far. KYB struts and mounts, Michelin MXV4 tires, Moog hubs, Moog inner and outer control arms, and Moog stabilizer links.


Anyway, I have to follow through with the repair since I have everything apart but was wondering what folks had to say about Dorman LCAs. Are they going to hold up?
 


X2 on the dormans, they work well, (they are stock replacements) took all the noise out of my front end after i changed them. nice and tight now too.

and i got mine for 42 bucks a side, cant beat that much.
 
Cool. Thanks guys! I heading out to the garage to finish up. I started last night on the drivers side with disassembly. The hardest part of removing the hub was the damn 3 bolts. Even after breaking them free they were tough to turn and slow going. If I had my way I would love to have had a fresh set of bolts to put in. I hope they go in much better with the new hub.

Oh I forgot to add, removing my rotors were a pain in the azz as they were frozen to the hubs. I have about 25% life remaining in them along with the pads. I don't know why they were so difficult to remove this time around as I have done my brakes in the front a few times already. I originally tried pounding on the inside of the with a wood block and a big hammer but they would not budge. After 20 minutes I had to resort to hitting them straight on with the big azz hammer. I was hitting the edge of the rotor where the pads do not contact but either way I was hoping to avoid doing that. I have cheap china rotors in the front and I swear those things really rust. When it was all said in done there was a pile of rusted metal probably big enough to fill one or more coffee cups. I am not kidding either. I did notice that the edges of the inner pad are wearing unevenly. I wonder if that is related to the play in the hubs that I am replacing or if I have another problem with calipers themselves. My guess it is due to the bad bearings that I had.

Since I pretty much replaced everything in the front end it looks like I will need to do the brakes soon too. I am not sure if I will just get some cheap rotors again or if I will get some better rotors this time. I have also been wondering about upgrading to a bigger rotor such as a 12" setup. I don't know if that is cost effective or what the downsides would be if any. As soon as I finish replacing these parts today I will have to figure out which option I am going to do there. All I can say is that I replaced tons of crap on this car in the last year. Prior to that it have been bullet proof.
 
The 3 bolts come out hard because they have loctite on them from the factory. They will go in better than they came out.
 
dsmuts said:
On the tierod boots i used zipties to hold the inner one on. My ball joints just spun in the knuckle so i had to cut mine off.
Click to expand...

x2 on that. Those clip rings they give you with the inner tie rods suck. I had them fall off like 3 times before I said screw it and zip tied them. Only thing better would be if you could find a different style clamp the was thin enough.
 


Guys,

I have everything done. Lower LCA's, both front hubs, new front rotors and brakes, outer tie rod end and stabilizer links replaced. I can't get the inner clamp on the driver's side inner control arm off. I can't believe I am stuck on that part after replacing everything else. I am spent at this point. I did not order a new boot and I am afraid to rip it. I am supposed to get the car aligned tomorrow morning too. I am stuck at this point unless I want to pony up the $200 the shop to replace one inner tie rod.

???
 
Cut the metal clamp off with sidecutters and rub some grease on the inside of the boot then slide it on and ziptie it.
 
Okay, so I was able to pry the clamp off with a screwdriver wedged up against the stabilizer bar. It is very tight on the drivers side. Assuming the tool I rented fits the inner tie rod end getting it off should be easy now. However... I noticed that there is a lot of fluid in the boot. Is that normal for the mileage and usage or should the rack be bone dry? Otherwise do I have another problem brewing with a bad seal on the rack itself?
 
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