• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Really want a ported gen 3 housing!

http://www.intense-racing.com/pics/psc/DSC04834_small.jpg

Make it look like this and be done with it. Unless you literally open it to a full square and the rotors can't push against anything...you can't really screw it up. Not to mention you will notice nothing for performance gains and just a little more noise.

However two additional things; no need to really open the silencer ports anymore.

At the top right and left; the square edges...remove those and open the triangle outlet all the way.

Only things I would change.

I miss my old ported GenIII though...whistled like crazy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S7v4HZF11E
 


Ok cool! I'm not expecting much in the way of performance I'd be happy with getting rid of the occasional blip of kr I have though .5-1

Also what kind of epoxy do I use to fill the egr and plug coolant ports? Every thread just says epoxy no one's says a particular kind. Thanks!

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
 
Lol if that's all you have for knock, just blips, then you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

Coolant ports you block off in the lim not the blower, tap and plug 1/4" npt plugs if I'm remembering right. This way you can take the blower off without draining coolant. Look up billboosts how to mod a lim in the how too section.
 
I'd be willing to bet you could get rid of that knock with other small stuff...cooler plugs, a colder t-stat, new (solid rubber or poly) mounts upper and lower...and any other typical maintenance you might have missed. Porting the blower, if you're not taking the blower off and upgrading it to a GenV or to do a full top end re-fresh; I honestly wouldn't waste my time...unless you're tuning it yourself and you port the blower and throttle body at the same time. And maybe toss on rockers.

It's just a lot of time for next to nothing gains.

Block off the EGR with a penny on each port and some RTV after you hack off the brackets that bolt to the LIM and rear manifold...toss out the gold stove pipe and valve itself. As for the coolant ports, most people just fill and pack it with JB weld or Quiksteel and call it a day after letting it sit over night and grinding it down flush.
 
Thanks guys! I already have rockers, 104s, 180tstat, and a stage 2 tb ready to go on with the porting. I realize I won't be seeing any mind blowing gains but this has been such a fun project so far I can't wait to finish it and get it all put together. Hopefully Tuesday or Thursday 😀

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
 




http://www.intense-racing.com/pics/psc/DSC04834_small.jpg

Make it look like this and be done with it. Unless you literally open it to a full square and the rotors can't push against anything...you can't really screw it up. Not to mention you will notice nothing for performance gains and just a little more noise.

However two additional things; no need to really open the silencer ports anymore.

At the top right and left; the square edges...remove those and open the triangle outlet all the way.

Only things I would change.

I miss my old ported GenIII though...whistled like crazy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S7v4HZF11E
My Reptile ported M90 sounded like a Hoover lol.
 
Yes I did cut the two bolts shorter ☺

Also I did notice a pretty decent gain off doing this. I actually gained 3/4 to 1 full pound of boost on the same pulley after this. Granted I installed a ported throttle body with the ported blower and I also put on a new rebuilt snout because a bearing in my old one was shot.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
 
Looks great.

Did yoh remeber to cut those 2 bolts shorter?
Thanks for saying it looks good. It was my first time even using a dremel or porting anything. It doesn't look as nice as some others I have seen but i feel very accomplished with it. Some of the pictures make it look a little rough still but it was smooth as a baby's bottom if you ran your hand over it.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
 


I know the amount of work that is required. I know there are better ways , methods , tools etc that someone will always chime in and offer - but they all require time and patience.

I stopped for 2 reasons - the amount of time dealing with clogging up or burning out bits and the taste. Mask or not, I did porting on my workbench inside and outside - still got that ****ty metal dust in my mouth and nose lol
i bet somewhere it's proven to be highly toxic too!
 
Ya I know what you mean. I always have to have some kind of project going I work 50 hours a week and have a 4 year old but i still NEED to have something for myself. I had a lot of fun with it though it took me about 1 1/2 weeks and probably a grand total of 8 hours or so. My current project is a headlight retrofit! Super excited for that one! Come on FedEx!!

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Ah the retros. I made a set for the Regal. Maybe 5 people total have projector Regal lights and I doubt ANY of them are on the road today - not even mine haha

the retro project does interest me
the cost of the materials and the guessing game does not.

I wokld like like to make a sick set for my eclipse Spyder as the current ones have moderate output


let me know how it turns out
 
I will definitely let you know. I'm doing a high quality budget build haha. I have morimoto v5 projectors, acme full hid kit, xb led halos, shrouds, that glue stuff to seal the headlight all from the retrofit source, a brand new set of headlights, and I'm only in it for 200$ and that's everything you need right there! Although I really want to get the newest morimoto projectors but there 135$ so I think I'll stick with the older ones.

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