• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Puking coolant between the oil pan and transmission pan?



Today i've become a man
QcwjlUv.jpg



I guess this confirms where the coolant leak was
BH35m0F.jpg


I did notice these plastic spacers on some of the front cover bolts

QlLhuEH.jpg


Most of them are eaten away, do I need to worry about replacing these?

e8Re8mh.jpg


And of course when pushing this thing into my garage the freakin wheel comes off. Almost pooped myself because I thought the entire engine was coming down.


Ok some questions, I need a final answer on the TQ spec on the rear cover, when I google I see a listing for ""Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing" that lists "15 + 50?Nm". Being it has question marks and all that makes me question it. And that's a huge number, it would be a total of 65Nm which sounds tight to me. Second question I asked above, whats up with them plastic spacers on the rear cover bolts? Should I remove what's left of the plastic on them? For parts cleaning, I was thinking of getting a big plastic tub from Walmart and 5 gallons of Kerosene (Cheapest solvent I can get in bulk I think) and soaking the oil pan, valve covers, and rear cover in it. Will that hurt anything? The oil pan has a sensor on it, should I take that out before doing this? And last question for now, anything else besides the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, rear cover gasket, should I change while the engine is out? I'm also slapping some spark plugs in it since that rear bank is not easy to get too.


Thanks guys, without you I would of just towed the car to the junkyard. Now it will live again!
 
take the sensor out the pan first, or you'll break it.

them little plastic sleeves are there to center the cover. use as many as you have left . i used blue loctight on the bolts and made them basically good and snug. dont forget to rtv the bottom 2 inches of the gasket on both sides. use a straight edge across the block and the cover to keep it square too.

id just spray it all down with brake cleaner. wipe off the bolts and parts.

the pan bolts i used thread sealant on them, most of them go through the block into the engine where oil can splash on them and the threads seems to seep oil.

the oil pan, rtv the block, thin smear 1 mm thick, then lay the gasket in place, then rtv the pan same as the block. mate em up and also snug these bolts up nice in a X pattern. snug em up with a few times round the pan bolts to get it all down nice and flat.
 
So the gasket inside the rear cover, that is the rear main seal right? Whats the safest way to replace it? Mine is relatively new but i feel like it would be a waste to not replace it.
 


the round seal part for the crank? i laid the cover on two blocks of wood to keep the seal in the air, then tapped it out, then flipped it over and tapped in the new seal.
 
Yeah, ill do that. That is the rear main seal right? Just to make sure I know the names of things. Should I put a little fresh oil on it while I drive it? Put a little on the crank as well when I put the cover on? Weather is gonna be nice all this week. I hope to have it running by next weekend.

Then I gotta do struts all around, then control arms, then do something about the sagging doors, IT NEVER ENDS
 
i did a thin smear of grease on the crank and the lip of the seal before tapping it in the cover. nothing thick, just some lube.

and yes thats the rear seal.

theres a how to for the door sag. its like maybe 20 bucks in new door pins and bushings. its a dorman help kit iirc.
 
Thanks, yeah I got the door sag guide printed out. Do just wanna ask a few more gasket questions.

Wlh9Fcg.jpg


I assume the read part goes towards the block right? Also besides the water ports what else is this gasket sealing? The rear cover doesn't fill with oil does it? also the top right gasket in this pic, what is that too? Would it be stupid of me to assume it's the EGR gasket? SHould I just replace it while the engine is out? And when you say grease will the stuff I use for ball joints and tie rods work? grease gun grease?


Got all the parts soaking in some water based degreaser. Gonna hose em off and let it dry off. Hope to have the rear cover and oil pan on today. Tomorrow will be the vavle cover, plugs, and wires. Wednesday i'm dropping back in.
 
theres holes that need to line up, see the one on the left top of your pick. just make sure they all line up right, red should face the block. iirc

grease used was the same as you put in your grease gun. just a smear so the seal slides on easy.

that cover seals oil and coolant why it leaks oil and in your case, coolant.

that larger rectangle spaghetti looking gasket is for the oil filter housing.

the rectangle one is the side cover for the lims coolant bypass.
 


Yeah I get where that gasket lines up, i'm just thinking it's a big gasket, to me it seems like it would have been a better idea to machine a lip into the front cover and just use a O ring around them water jacket holes.

Anyways, I might do that oil filter housing while i'm doing this. Should I use thread sealer on its bolts as well? So far i'm using thread sealer on the oil pan and blue loctite on the front cover. What about the valve covers? Loctite em? And only use RTV all around the oil pan and only a thin bead for the bottom inch or so of the front cover, I got that right? It would be dumb to put a thing layer of RTV around the water jacket holes? I did notice while using a razor to clean the front cover mating surface that the aluminum on it is real soft, left a little line on the cover but I can't feel it with my nail. I started using a brass brush after that.
 
front cover gets the thread sealant. the back cover just loctight on the bolts. the bolt that holds the crank sensor gets tq'ed at like 13 or 14 ft lbs. look that one up it matters.

the front cover goes on dry, all but the rtv at the bottom 2 inches like the rear cover. water pump gasket also dry, the oil filter housing also dry, no sealant needed on those bolts.

id not change the front seal tho. it could cause your balancer to leak, yes a new one can make it leak. ive lived through that one.
 
Everything was going good till I messed with that damn oil filter adapter. First off, the spring loaded plunger, is it just the spring and the plunger? When I took the adapter off it pooped out, this is how I have it
ow8YefT.jpg

Look right?

Second, this freaking gasket was stuck so bad to the adapter I scratched up the surface trying to clean it off. Here's what it is now.
gN0HMbn.jpg

In a few spots it catches my nail, I don't get how the gasket was stuck on so tight. Went trough 8 razors over 2 hours just trying to get the old gasket off. I got a feeling this is gonna leak. I put it on with the new gasket but i'm thinking of taking it off and spreading a thin layer of RTV on it to help fill some of the cracks. What do you guys think?
 
pretty sure its spring first, then the plunger, if you put a thin washe behind the spring thats a oil pressure increase kit pretty much.

the housing there, its not to bad. if you got some 120 grit or finer sand paper and a wood block, id sand it nice and clean. then wash the hell out of it. you dont want any crap left behind.

i see a nice even ooze of rtv at the pan gasket dont i? :th_thumb-up:
 


Did just like you said, i spread a thin layer of RTV with my finger.

I'll go to the store tomrrow and get some 120grit. How important is TQ spec on the adapter? I just went "right" on it. Now I'm gonna take it back off and sand it might be a good idea to TQ it right this time
 
Umm, 120 grit is like as rough as it comes lol.


You'll want like 1,000 grit or even 1,500 grit to clean the surface of parts. Unless you want to make the surface 50x worse with 120 grit, go ahead.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top