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Puking coolant between the oil pan and transmission pan?



Scottydoggs said:
look up whats called a lower conversion kit. has all them gaskets plus the oil pan and a few others for about 30 bucks. ( no head gaskets or lim. just the bottom of the engine)

change the rear main seal, not the front crank seal. the odds of that one leaking are real. best to leave it alone.

the rear cover you want to rtv the bottom 2 inches of the gasket on both sides, the pan gasket do rtv on both sides of the gasket, i did a smear on the block and the pan.

that rear cover is a very low tq, the bolts maybe hand tight right now. add a dot of blue loctight to these bolts to keep them in.
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So for the rear cover gasket, what your saying is RTV the entire bottom line and up 2 inches on the side? Making a shallow U shape? Also what RTV should I use? Also as i'm sitting here thinking about how i'm gonna do this and looking at my engine stand, i'm gonna have to do the rear cover gasket while it's hanging from the engine house because stand bolts to the back of the engine, right? Am I missing something? Is that safe?
 
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i used what ever i had on hand, dont matter. where the oil pan meets the bottom of the rear cover, rtv 2 inches of each side, smear rtv on the block, (just past the dowel) install the gasket, then smear some more rtv on the gasket just past the dowel then install the cover.

having the oil pan off at this time makes life easy too. after the rear cover is bolted on, i did the oil pan asap so the rtv from the rear cover was still fresh where it meets the oil pan. rtv the block where the pan sits, then lay the gasket in, then rtv the pan, then bolt it on.

few other tips, remove the low oil sensor before you take the pan off or it will break. you need a pick to lift the plugs tab, then pull its plug off, then it just unscrews from the pan.

putting a straight edge across the bottom of rear cover to the block makes sure the cover goes on squarely too.
 
Any thing special for the valve cover gaskets? Thinking we might have a nice few days of weather so I'm gonna start on Tuesday. Will probably pop in with more questions then. I'm having a hard time visualizing where the RTV is going in relation to the block.
 
felpro vc gaskets, with grommets.

heres a pic i just found, see the bottom of the block the orange line is the oil pan, the two sides from the pan up, rtv just past that first bolt hole.

L67_Assembly_40.jpg


im no fan the pan being on before the rear cover, when you put the cover on that rtv is just gonna get wiped off by the cover.

and theres no need to trv all the way up like in the pic.
 
Scottydoggs said:
felpro vc gaskets, with grommets.

heres a pic i just found, see the bottom of the block the orange line is the oil pan, the two sides from the pan up, rtv just past that first bolt hole.

L67_Assembly_40.jpg


im no fan the pan being on before the rear cover, when you put the cover on that rtv is just gonna get wiped off by the cover.

and theres no need to trv all the way up like in the pic.
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You are based as hell Scottydoggs, I didn't think the oil pan lip came out like that. Now it's clear for me. I ordered the valve cover with grommets, do I RTV anything with them? Or just slap em on and tighten the bolts down?
 


one time i had to rtv the vc. but that head had a porous surface, leaked with a new gasket, old one fromt he last owner was rtv'ed too.

if the top of the head is smooth like it should be, just wipe it down with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner, pop the new gaskets and covers on.

dont go nuts on the bolts, snug em up and thats it, once they stop going in thats all they go. go any further you'll snap one. note the shoulder on the bolt and how thin the threaded part is.
 
So I got it ready to pull outside a few bolts. My question is for the rear cover seal, how do I replace it? My engine stand bolts to the back of the engine covering the gasket. Am i doing this while it's hanging off the hoist? That sounds dangerous....
 
i had my engine stripped to a short block, i flipped it over on the stand and lifted it off and put it on a old tire, then did the rear cover on the ground.

engine hoist should work just fine too.
 
Thanks again bro, let me ask. Would it be stupid to not even mount the engine to a stand? Just do the pan gasket. rear cover gasket, valve cover, Wires and plugs, while it's on the hoist? After the pan is back on i figure I can lower it down onto some wood or even the grass to do the rest. So The plan would be to pull engine, remove pan and rear cover, scrap with razer blades and rub down with brake cleaner and rag, put oil pan back on with RTV on the pan and the block with gasket in between, then front cover with RTV around the lip of the exposed pan and up 2 inches onto the block then the new gasket. Lower the engine till it's kissing the ground. Do the valve covers with RTV with only it's looking rough. Plugs and wires. Then hoist it back into the car. Sound like a good plan? Somewhere in there i'd do the TB gasket as well...
 
id just take it off the stand for the rear cover, take the pan off first, do rear cover, then back on the stand, do any other gaskets on your list.

rad side of the pan is the low oil sensor, un clip the plug and unscrew and remove it before you take the pan off. or it breaks.
working on a stand is so damn nice.

spark plugs are the last thing put in or they can crack, unless the manifolds are still on, then the plugs are pretty safe.

rest sounds good.
 


Need some help guys, I fairly sure this is the last wire that goes to the back of the engine area.
9EX2MDO.jpg

How the heck do I disconnect it? I'm afraid to yank on it to hard. Also is this the sensor i'm supposed to take out? Billboosts Write has step 11 being "remove oil pressure sensor". Is that what im looking at here?

Up to this point I got everything up to disconnected (besides the wire in the photo, after that the whole harness should be able to flip out), fuel rails off, Power steering pump off (in the write up it says to leave the bolts loose but inside the pump. I took em out, did i goof?). I got the starter out too. Best I can figure it I gotta get the AC compressor off then i'm ready to start with the mounts and the bell housing. Also the exhaust bolts. I soaked em in PB blaster and just letting them sit for now. They look rather rusty and I really dont wanna round em off.
 
that plug is in the tranny, it can stay, off the bottom of the p/s pump is the knock sensor wire clipped to it, in line is a small plug tot he rear kr sensor harness.

once the starter is off you can get to the tc bolts.

have a jack under the tail shaft of the tranny, aka pass side to hold it up. then jack it up so its a bit higher, makes the engine coming off the tranny easier. leave the jack there after the engine is removed to keep it up, or it hits the floor.

taking the two bolts out of the p/s pump is ok, the leaving them in the pump keeps them safe.

the ac you just unbolt it from the front of the engine, and remove the bracket from its back side. lay the compressor on the frame.
 
Scottydoggs said:
that plug is in the tranny, it can stay, off the bottom of the p/s pump is the knock sensor wire clipped to it, in line is a small plug tot he rear kr sensor harness.

once the starter is off you can get to the tc bolts.

have a jack under the tail shaft of the tranny, aka pass side to hold it up. then jack it up so its a bit higher, makes the engine coming off the tranny easier. leave the jack there after the engine is removed to keep it up, or it hits the floor.

taking the two bolts out of the p/s pump is ok, the leaving them in the pump keeps them safe.

the ac you just unbolt it from the front of the engine, and remove the bracket from its back side. lay the compressor on the frame.
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Hmm if I don't have to take that off what wire am I missing? I took off the clip on the back of the PS pump, unplugged the sensor. Their still is one wire on that loom that runs to the back of the engine, I guess I have to look harder.

Thanks for the tip on the tranny. Not sure how keeping it elevated on the passenger side keeps it up being most of the tranny is on the driver side. I guess it's one of them things I gotta be looking at.
 


in the block under the rear exhaust manifold, follow the wire to it. theres one on the front side too, near the starter and a/c. easier to see it for reference up front.
 
I'm gonna end up owing you a case of beer when this is all over!

Anyways, got the knock sensor unplugged, and while im in this aera,
bg8EFQM.jpg


Is that bolt next to the knock sensor part of the bracket that Bill is talking about at step 12 of his guide? I just wan't to make sure before I start fighting with it

So issue number two,
1W0Huy8.jpg


Even with the knock sensor remove I can't get this harness to come free, I know it's not hooked to the PS pump anymore. This is the last thing keep the main hardness from just flopping over to the side.

Last question for today
tsNFxIt.jpg


The area where the booster gets vacuum from the manifold. How the heck does it come off? I even did this before when I did the LIM gasket but can't seem to get it right. I assume I squeeze the ears and pull up and I did that pretty hard but it didn't budge. Kinda scared of putting more muscle into it since i'm not planning on replacing the upper manifold.


Thanks as always
 
the booster line and hvac vac lines you just twist and pull them off.

the harness up top just flip it all to the d/s. its only on the top, nothing goes down lower. the harness is clipped to the bracket in the middle rear tho.

the rear knock sensor you could have left plugged in, you unplugged it already, why its a harness. what was clipped to the p/s pump and you unplugged is the other end of that wire.

you need to get that bracket off between the engine and tranny near the oil filter housing. having it off gives you a clear shot to the backwards bolt on the bell housing. and separates the engine and tranny of course.
 
Scottydoggs said:
the harness up top just flip it all to the d/s. its only on the top, nothing goes down lower. the harness is clipped to the bracket in the middle rear tho
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That harness i'm holding in my hand won't come up no matter how hard I tug it. Not that im yanking hard but i'm pulling harder then I'd like too. What else can be holding it down?
 
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