Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
Re: Project LQ4 - Formally introducing the S10
i have a industrial size shoe horn ill let ya borrow lol
i have a industrial size shoe horn ill let ya borrow lol
i have a industrial size shoe horn ill let ya borrow lol
I'm willing to bet there will not be enough space for the ac stuff.
Been so long I couldn't remember how this thing started so I re-read the whole thread just now. Pretty smart how you're going about this.
I like the S-10 you got. You need the seats in my shed.
Love rubber floor mats, they make good sense to me.
That engine will do ridiculous things even N/A if you start with heads and cam. Boost and time busy tuning is probably more your style.
Comments I can't resist making because I am whut I am-
Rust is to me what greasy is to you. Paint the frame. Paint the inside of the bed and PDR that bed ding and voila its the nicest S-10 body in town.
I'd resist the urge to go beyond wheels and tint for appearance mods. You ain't got a hair on yer butt if you don't go manual trans.![]()
In light of your future plans and to facilitate the current one, consider whacking away the firewall / toe board areas and fabbing your own. A light but rigid tubular custom core support is also a thought. With your parlay skills, you could go Vintage Air and ditch the underhood box. If we're gonna go utilitarian, lets embrace it fully and make haulin ass easy as possible. Getting rid of everything then putting back only what you want is sometimes easier than taking measures to work around a bunch of things. Plumb and wire it like a street rod rather than an OE install. Just thinking out loud here and I'll stop now. Its an interesting project. Money saved on essentials in one area opens the door to spendage in other key areas.
Rearend should be close to top of list, yep.
Have you looked into hood clearance? If you're wanting it to look stock, at least from the outside, you might run into an issue there.
Maybe some low-profile engine/trans mounts? otherwise you might need a scoop/cowl, which is totally going to ruin your plans for "factory V8 look"
Just bedliner it, more character to prove that it's a "work" truck, not meant for racing... lol![]()
From what I have seen, I'm pretty sure the truck intake will fit with stock hood. He could always run a car intake, but then he will have to change his accessory drive to clearance the TB since the car intake is much shorter then the truck intake (I think). I think the OP is correct in saying that all you need to do is notch for compressor clearance. He could also run a high mount conversion too if he didn't want to notch the rail.
Here is a good thread to look into if you haven't already. Pretty detailed on what you will need and run into while doing this swap.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/lsx-conversion-information-390967/
Once you start the swap, give some detailed info. I really have been leaning towards an extreme blazer with a 6.0 swap once I have the funds to do so.
I've seen some nice setups with subs, some mounted to the underside of the dash, under seats, inside seats, and even some mounted to the inside of the roof.
Plus, with the welder you can fill all those little holes. Lol
I use Eastwood rust converter normally and have also used Picklex which works good too.
Eastwood rust converter followed by their encapsulator with no paint is actually really durable and has a pleasant soft black look. Minimal work. I can only speak on what I've tried though. Just forget naval jelly and Rust-Mort, lol. weak stuff.
Since Ronnie Sox passed away, yes an auto can shift faster![]()
But you know what you're doing and I'd back whatever play you pick.
Those 8.8s are the hot ticket. Now heres another attempt to tip over your plan... Why would you not do this with a 4x4 S-10? Or is that stage 3, when you drop the tweaked setup in one of those? Imagine the rip-snort factor on that![]()
Run without a passenger seat and put your thumps over there along with the obligatory on board tuning lab.
Be the freak and make a wood kit, old school. :th_lightbulb:
I place the probability that you'll be wanting Extreme bumpers and stuff within 2 yrs... above 50%![]()
Alright then. Hey whats this about buying a 220V welder to notch the frame? Thats turbo money and you could get r dun with one of those hundred dollar new flux core jobs, I'd bet. Don't know where on the frame you're talking about though.
Don't know where on the frame you're talking about though.
I place the probability that you'll be wanting Extreme bumpers and stuff within 2 yrs... above 50%![]()
This^^^^
I can already see the WTB ad. lol
"looking for extreme bumpers, for my extreme truck that I did an extreme LQ4 swap into, that makes extreme power and now it needs to look extreme to match the extreme attitude it has. Extreme."
If it needs more than that, I am envisioning a way to do a notch without adding any new metal that could work.
Funny you say that. I was already thinking maybe I could run a slit in the male radius that interferes. Maybe about 10 inches long. The a couple relief cuts perpendicular to the first cut. Then just fold the metal in. Patch the open ends and run a bead on the inside (now a female radius). Basically all the cuts would look like an uppercase "I" laying down.
Are ya sure theres not a bracket mod or adaptation that could also work? You know you'll go ape with making stuff with a new welder.![]()