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Pre-Made/Bent Brake Lines?

A

ABeam

New member
We are fixing some rocker panel rust on my GP and noticed the brake lines and fuel line front rear to front are getting pretty bad. Up here in New England rust is everywhere. Does anyone know if there are prebent brake lines available. I've looked all over and can't find anything. If it comes down to it we can't make our own but premade would be nice. Any help. Thanks
 


You might be able to get dealer lines, but they take plenty of time to order in. They can also come in pretty broken and useless.
 
If you get prebent, you will need to disassemble the car to remove them. I know...because I pulled some for another guy off a car I was scrapping. You'd need to pull the front and rear subframes. Which is a major undertaking for a brake line. Overall you are better off making them up yourself.

I did some on my truck last week and used a Conifer/NiCopp line for the first time. That stuff is costly depending on where you get it. But wow..it was super easy to work with. I'll be getting that from now on.
 
I replaced all the brake lines on my GP last spring. I would recommend just buying bulk brake line like I did. You need to route the line through some pretty weird angles, and even if the line is pre-bent, you'd have to bend it anyway to get it where it needs to be. I picked up 50' of polyarmor brake line and a few fittings at autozone for around $26, and bought my own bubble flaring tool on amazon for another $30.

I re-used most of the fittings. Then I just basically pulled brake lines out of the car one at a time, bent the new tubing to roughly the same shape, cut the new tubing, put the fittings on, and flared the ends with the flaring tool. Then I'd snake the line back in there and tighten it up.

Dunno what the dealer charges for pre-bent parts, but it's probably cheaper to buy bulk line and a flaring tool. Plus, then you have a tool for future work (used it on my LeSabre and a friend's car as well).
 


GTP131 said:
I replaced all the brake lines on my GP last spring. I would recommend just buying bulk brake line like I did. You need to route the line through some pretty weird angles, and even if the line is pre-bent, you'd have to bend it anyway to get it where it needs to be. I picked up 50' of polyarmor brake line and a few fittings at autozone for around $26, and bought my own bubble flaring tool on amazon for another $30.

I re-used most of the fittings. Then I just basically pulled brake lines out of the car one at a time, bent the new tubing to roughly the same shape, cut the new tubing, put the fittings on, and flared the ends with the flaring tool. Then I'd snake the line back in there and tighten it up.

Dunno what the dealer charges for pre-bent parts, but it's probably cheaper to buy bulk line and a flaring tool. Plus, then you have a tool for future work (used it on my LeSabre and a friend's car as well).
Click to expand...
gtp131: i have a few questions to ask on this as i need to do this myself sometime. i have an 01 gp se 3.1.
1) the bubble flaring tools on amazon are in mm. is this what you buy?
2) the rolls of tubing come in 25ft rolls. how much do you need to do a car?
3) did you use a tubing bender?
4) how long does it take to do this? i have good mechanical skills and i have flared copper piping before but not car tubing.
5) can i do this on car ramps and jackstands?
6) what fittings did you buy?
thanks for any tips you can give. robin
 
1. Yes, the are actually called "metric" bubble flaring tools. I used this kit.
2. Yep, I originally got 2 25' rolls. You'll probably want to get 2 rolls as well. You'll need some long lengths, so one 25' roll probably won't cut it. (3/16" line is what you need)
3. No, I did not use a tubing bender. I bent carefully, and I used a few different diameters of pipe for the more aggressive bends.
4. For me, it took about a whole day. Can't honestly say the exact number of hours, but if you set about a day aside, you should be fine. The polyarmor that I used was mild steel, so it flared fairly easily. I've never flared copper line, but I'd imagine the brake like would be somewhat harder than copper. Don't go for the stainless steel hard lines, they require a completely different method of installation than mild steel.
5. Yes, you certainly can. I did this with two jackstands, and a couple of jacks. I only had one side of the car jacked up at a given time, so you might have an even easier time if you get it all off the ground.
6. Can't recall the exact sizes of the fittings, but they'll be for 3/16" brake line. I'd just keep the fittings you take off, and you can match them at an auto parts store later if they appear to need replacement.

This is basically the routing as I remember it:

Master Cylinder---->ABS unit
Master Cylinder---->ABS unit

ABS unit---->"5th" soft line---->front Driver soft line fitting (I thought this was odd and crummy, so I deleted the 5th line and went straight from the ABS unit to the Front Driver wheel soft line fitting).
ABS unit---->passenger side soft line fitting
ABS unit----> proportioning valve----->driver rear soft line fitting
ABS unit----> Proportioning valve----->passenger rear soft line fitting

The proportioning valves simply have a brake fitting on each side, no worries. I just re-used them.

Make sure the Master Cylinder and ABS unit never run dry of fluid. Otherwise they'll need special bleeding procedures that you probably want to avoid. I found that after you take the lines out of the ABS unit, you can take the little rubber boots on the brake bleeder valves (on the calipers) and use them likes plugs in the holes on the ABS unit.

When you're finished and it's time to bleed, make sure you keep that brake fluid reservoir filled up, and be ready to do a lot of bleeding at the calipers... it's gonna take some time to get all the air out.

And please, even though I have no idea why you'd do this, but don't use compression fittings anywhere. Do it right the first time. I know a lot of rednecks that say it's "okay and I don't have any problems" but it's very unsafe. Use the correct flares and fittings.

That's all I can remember atm, just be patient and remember that PB blaster is your friend for getting those fittings apart!
 
GTP131 said:
1. Yes, the are actually called "metric" bubble flaring tools. I used this kit.
2. Yep, I originally got 2 25' rolls. You'll probably want to get 2 rolls as well. You'll need some long lengths, so one 25' roll probably won't cut it. (3/16" line is what you need)
3. No, I did not use a tubing bender. I bent carefully, and I used a few different diameters of pipe for the more aggressive bends.
4. For me, it took about a whole day. Can't honestly say the exact number of hours, but if you set about a day aside, you should be fine. The polyarmor that I used was mild steel, so it flared fairly easily. I've never flared copper line, but I'd imagine the brake like would be somewhat harder than copper. Don't go for the stainless steel hard lines, they require a completely different method of installation than mild steel.
5. Yes, you certainly can. I did this with two jackstands, and a couple of jacks. I only had one side of the car jacked up at a given time, so you might have an even easier time if you get it all off the ground.
6. Can't recall the exact sizes of the fittings, but they'll be for 3/16" brake line. I'd just keep the fittings you take off, and you can match them at an auto parts store later if they appear to need replacement.

This is basically the routing as I remember it:

Master Cylinder---->ABS unit
Master Cylinder---->ABS unit

ABS unit---->"5th" soft line---->front Driver soft line fitting (I thought this was odd and crummy, so I deleted the 5th line and went straight from the ABS unit to the Front Driver wheel soft line fitting).
ABS unit---->passenger side soft line fitting
ABS unit----> proportioning valve----->driver rear soft line fitting
ABS unit----> Proportioning valve----->passenger rear soft line fitting

The proportioning valves simply have a brake fitting on each side, no worries. I just re-used them.

Make sure the Master Cylinder and ABS unit never run dry of fluid. Otherwise they'll need special bleeding procedures that you probably want to avoid. I found that after you take the lines out of the ABS unit, you can take the little rubber boots on the brake bleeder valves (on the calipers) and use them likes plugs in the holes on the ABS unit.

When you're finished and it's time to bleed, make sure you keep that brake fluid reservoir filled up, and be ready to do a lot of bleeding at the calipers... it's gonna take some time to get all the air out.

And please, even though I have no idea why you'd do this, but don't use compression fittings anywhere. Do it right the first time. I know a lot of rednecks that say it's "okay and I don't have any problems" but it's very unsafe. Use the correct flares and fittings.

That's all I can remember atm, just be patient and remember that PB blaster is your friend for getting those fittings apart!
Click to expand...
thanks, i think that gives me all the info i need. i'll probably be doing it in the near future. i just wanted some great info. from someone that has actually done it. i'll just do one line at a time like you did. big thanks for the info on not letting the abs and master cylinder go dry. i knew about the MS but not the abs unit. so i'll make sure to keep them full at all times. i''l keep the email i got from this so i have the info. handy. i've been watching some tube bending and flaring videos too. thanks again. all the info. is appreciated. robin
 
GTP131 said:
1. Yes, the are actually called "metric" bubble flaring tools. I used this kit.
2. Yep, I originally got 2 25' rolls. You'll probably want to get 2 rolls as well. You'll need some long lengths, so one 25' roll probably won't cut it. (3/16" line is what you need)
3. No, I did not use a tubing bender. I bent carefully, and I used a few different diameters of pipe for the more aggressive bends.
4. For me, it took about a whole day. Can't honestly say the exact number of hours, but if you set about a day aside, you should be fine. The polyarmor that I used was mild steel, so it flared fairly easily. I've never flared copper line, but I'd imagine the brake like would be somewhat harder than copper. Don't go for the stainless steel hard lines, they require a completely different method of installation than mild steel.
5. Yes, you certainly can. I did this with two jackstands, and a couple of jacks. I only had one side of the car jacked up at a given time, so you might have an even easier time if you get it all off the ground.
6. Can't recall the exact sizes of the fittings, but they'll be for 3/16" brake line. I'd just keep the fittings you take off, and you can match them at an auto parts store later if they appear to need replacement.

This is basically the routing as I remember it:

Master Cylinder---->ABS unit
Master Cylinder---->ABS unit

ABS unit---->"5th" soft line---->front Driver soft line fitting (I thought this was odd and crummy, so I deleted the 5th line and went straight from the ABS unit to the Front Driver wheel soft line fitting).
ABS unit---->passenger side soft line fitting
ABS unit----> proportioning valve----->driver rear soft line fitting
ABS unit----> Proportioning valve----->passenger rear soft line fitting

The proportioning valves simply have a brake fitting on each side, no worries. I just re-used them.

Make sure the Master Cylinder and ABS unit never run dry of fluid. Otherwise they'll need special bleeding procedures that you probably want to avoid. I found that after you take the lines out of the ABS unit, you can take the little rubber boots on the brake bleeder valves (on the calipers) and use them likes plugs in the holes on the ABS unit.

When you're finished and it's time to bleed, make sure you keep that brake fluid reservoir filled up, and be ready to do a lot of bleeding at the calipers... it's gonna take some time to get all the air out.

And please, even though I have no idea why you'd do this, but don't use compression fittings anywhere. Do it right the first time. I know a lot of rednecks that say it's "okay and I don't have any problems" but it's very unsafe. Use the correct flares and fittings.

That's all I can remember atm, just be patient and remember that PB blaster is your friend for getting those fittings apart![/
Click to expand...
 
gpbastard said:
GTP131 said:
1. Yes, the are actually called "metric" bubble flaring tools. I used this kit.
2. Yep, I originally got 2 25' rolls. You'll probably want to get 2 rolls as well. You'll need some long lengths, so one 25' roll probably won't cut it. (3/16" line is what you need)
3. No, I did not use a tubing bender. I bent carefully, and I used a few different diameters of pipe for the more aggressive bends.
4. For me, it took about a whole day. Can't honestly say the exact number of hours, but if you set about a day aside, you should be fine. The polyarmor that I used was mild steel, so it flared fairly easily. I've never flared copper line, but I'd imagine the brake like would be somewhat harder than copper. Don't go for the stainless steel hard lines, they require a completely different method of installation than mild steel.
5. Yes, you certainly can. I did this with two jackstands, and a couple of jacks. I only had one side of the car jacked up at a given time, so you might have an even easier time if you get it all off the ground.
6. Can't recall the exact sizes of the fittings, but they'll be for 3/16" brake line. I'd just keep the fittings you take off, and you can match them at an auto parts store later if they appear to need replacement.

This is basically the routing as I remember it:

Master Cylinder---->ABS unit
Master Cylinder---->ABS unit

ABS unit---->"5th" soft line---->front Driver soft line fitting (I thought this was odd and crummy, so I deleted the 5th line and went straight from the ABS unit to the Front Driver wheel soft line fitting).
ABS unit---->passenger side soft line fitting
ABS unit----> proportioning valve----->driver rear soft line fitting
ABS unit----> Proportioning valve----->passenger rear soft line fitting

The proportioning valves simply have a brake fitting on each side, no worries. I just re-used them.

Make sure the Master Cylinder and ABS unit never run dry of fluid. Otherwise they'll need special bleeding procedures that you probably want to avoid. I found that after you take the lines out of the ABS unit, you can take the little rubber boots on the brake bleeder valves (on the calipers) and use them likes plugs in the holes on the ABS unit.

When you're finished and it's time to bleed, make sure you keep that brake fluid reservoir filled up, and be ready to do a lot of bleeding at the calipers... it's gonna take some time to get all the air out.

And please, even though I have no idea why you'd do this, but don't use compression fittings anywhere. Do it right the first time. I know a lot of rednecks that say it's "okay and I don't have any problems" but it's very unsafe. Use the correct flares and fittings.

That's all I can remember atm, just be patient and remember that PB blaster is your friend for getting those fittings apart![/
Click to expand...

have one more question. i'm confused about the 5th soft line. the routing from the abs module goes like this: hard line to a stainless steel soft line then to a rubber soft line then to a hard line which then goes to the bracket that connects to the caliper rubber hose. can i eliminate all this and go all hard line from the abs module all the way to the bracket that holds the rubber caliper line?
also, on the abs module all the lines coming off it have those stainless steel soft lines. can i eliminate those and just go hard line.
thanks again.
Click to expand...
 


sure can just as long as it has a coil. you can use 2 inch pvc pipe to bend it around. unless both parts are very stable, chances are they do move some or they would not have the braided lines to rubber.

if the master to abs pump are still looking good, you can always not change them, and just do the abs pump to the wheels only.
 
scottydoggs said:
sure can just as long as it has a coil. you can use 2 inch pvc pipe to bend it around. unless both parts are very stable, chances are they do move some or they would not have the braided lines to rubber.

if the master to abs pump are still looking good, you can always not change them, and just do the abs pump to the wheels only.
Click to expand...
thanks. i saw a youtube video from eastwood on making the coils. the lines from the MC to the abs module look to be in very good shape so they might stay. it's when you get underneath the firewall that some of the lines are rusty. especially by where the first tie down is that runs all your lines to the back. it's like a rust pocket.
 
dropping the sub frame 2 inches can add some room to work in there. if you think its needed. takes nothing to do really. i know those lines block the sway bar cap and bushing rear bolt. they all look nice and snugly packed together.
 


scottydoggs said:
dropping the sub frame 2 inches can add some room to work in there. if you think its needed. takes nothing to do really. i know those lines block the sway bar cap and bushing rear bolt. they all look nice and snugly packed together.
Click to expand...
scotty, you're right, it shouldn't be too much of a problem to re-do. looks pretty straight forward and my mech. skill are decent. i was just concerned with what to do with those rubber and stainless lines (strain relief is what they are). i'll probably tackle it here with in the next few weeks or so as it's still hot here in florida.
 
scottydoggs said:
sure can just as long as it has a coil. you can use 2 inch pvc pipe to bend it around. unless both parts are very stable, chances are they do move some or they would not have the braided lines to rubber.

if the master to abs pump are still looking good, you can always not change them, and just do the abs pump to the wheels only.
Click to expand...
scottydoggs, where do you recommend putting the coils at? right past the stainless soft lines coming off the ABS module there's a junction block to hold the 4 brake lines. do i want to put the coils where the stainless soft lines are or can i put them in past that junction block? as you know the are around the ABS module is pretty crammed. is their anywhere else in the system that i need to put coils in? thanks.
 
id put them in the middle and as out of the way as possible.

but a parts store should sell those lines, as they are kinda special. or if you think yours really need to be changed, and want to do it on the cheap, try out a junk yard for those lines.
 
scottydoggs said:
id put them in the middle and as out of the way as possible.

but a parts store should sell those lines, as they are kinda special. or if you think yours really need to be changed, and want to do it on the cheap, try out a junk yard for those lines.
Click to expand...
the other ones are pretty corroded so they'll have to come out either way. i have a pull your own salvage yard that i can go to. i'm in florida so i'm guessing the lines should be in better shape when you go ta a salvage yard. if not i'll put some loops on the lines. my car spent ten yuears in minnesota, thus the rusty lines. thanks scotty.
 
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