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Post Whoring - 5.5.1 - We have a turd in the punch bowl

Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

Time for an old school tune up!

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Cap, rotor, coil, and ICM are already replaced. Plugs are on their way. Hopefully this solves the power loss when hot problem.
 


Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

i got a timing light on the shelf lol you cant give them away any more lol
 
Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

I use one and have a spare for parts, send them all to me. Vacuum gauges too lol
 


Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

It was replaced about 500 miles ago. It's a long story, but it was replaced 3/4 of the way from Grand Rapids to Tucson.
 
Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

that coil a top the cap do fail. had it happen more then once to me back in the day.
 
Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

nothing like the old match book points cleaning on the side of the road too lol
 


Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

Man I don't miss points at all, HEI'ed and Q-Jetted everything pronto and gave the dwell meter away once I was like 25 or 30. Dad was the points whiz though.

Brandon, have you checked the heat riser valve, if it has one? The butterfly on one exhaust manifold flange. If it doesn't open, heat keeps going thru the intake after it warms up and you'll be running on a single pipe. They are bimetal spring or vacuum actuated and located normally on the passenger side.

If you find a coil that says china on top, throw it as far as you can.
 
Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

idrivejunk said:
Brandon, have you checked the heat riser valve, if it has one? The butterfly on one exhaust manifold flange. If it doesn't open, heat keeps going thru the intake after it warms up and you'll be running on a single pipe. They are bimetal spring or vacuum actuated and located normally on the passenger side.
Click to expand...

I checked it yesterday when I was IN the engine compartment. With the engine cold, it flaps freely. The only resistance was from the weight of the counterbalance. Is this the way it's supposed to be?

Hoping to get a set of headers and duals on it in very short order. She needs to breathe!
 
Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

when cold it should shut so its getting the hot air off the manifold, once warmed up it should open up to take air from the tube end of the air filter.

most of the time i tore that crap off cause it didnt work right. it only helps in my mind if its like real cold out. below freezing temps.
 


Re: Post Whoring Thread 3.0.1 - Bill loves Drunkie long time

BrandonHall10 said:
I checked it yesterday when I was IN the engine compartment. With the engine cold, it flaps freely. The only resistance was from the weight of the counterbalance. Is this the way it's supposed to be?

Hoping to get a set of headers and duals on it in very short order. She needs to breathe!
Click to expand...

Thats the way its supposed to be, just confirm its opening fully when warm. Be thankful its no vacuum actuated in your case. Theres a whole raft full of issues that can cause it to run bad hot, originating in all the cold start provisions. Theres very few things it needs to run well but if its expected to cold start like EFI all that smog junk has to be in place. If I were doing this incrementally upgrade wise, I'd wait on headers and get proper intake for the carb. The carb will probably be great with no tune now, then you could fatten it up at header time. I'm like you though, give me a properly working stocker as a start point. So much better than fixing cobbled up mods.
 
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