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post up your audio equipment

DirtDog said:
Being if it shorts out between fuse and starter it would still pop the fuse but have current from alt

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Yes all the battery in a car is used for is starting the car and running accessories when the engine is not running. The batter in the car is the only reason cars still run on DC.
 


Yes battery in trunk. Fuse between battery and starter.
BTW there is always power on the positive wire at the starter. Stock wiring has a wire running directly from alternator to starter.

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No you do not. Unless you want to put on on the hot wire coming from the alt just to be safe. But I have never heard of anyone every having any issues, that would cause any damage, with the wire coming off the battery let alone the one off the alt. I know they can come apart and such but that is not what you are trying to prevent.
 
Ok cool. I'm more worried about the wire running from battery to starter. One fuse is right at battery but if it shorts between starter and that fuse I seem to feel it'd be a problem. I'm probably just paranoid though.

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It doesn't hurt to run 2 fuses on the same line, but you do not need to run a fuse the alt power supply! I have been running aftermarket high output alts for years now and never had a problem with it putting out too much power! I know people driving around at 15.5v no problems.
10173605_10201466562898238_6570601775179185254_n.jpg
 
chrishova said:
It doesn't hurt to run 2 fuses on the same line, but you do not need to run a fuse the alt power supply! I have been running aftermarket high output alts for years now and never had a problem with it putting out too much power! I know people driving around at 15.5v no problems.
10173605_10201466562898238_6570601775179185254_n.jpg
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Hey I'll post a new thread later and show what I'm doing. I have 3 inline fuse holders and have a 300 amp for the starter wire running from trunk and a 250 for the other two fuse holders.

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chrishova said:
lol. I have about 100 ft of 1/0ga... At about $3.50 a ft. + ring terminals, soldier pellets, etc...
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Solder pellets? What are those lol.
I got 50 feet of OFC 1/0 gauge wire at an audio store going out of business. Paid 2.50 a foot lol. But I bought a special tool for crimping that large of terminals. I crimp then solder.

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chris that looks like a singer alt, I have the same one from a 2.4 sunfire, itll bolt up to my l67 motor and its the same colour
 
kay, im trying to do the big 3 upgrand on an 04 GTP and im reading that you guys with the 97-03 have the alternator wire going into the fuse box...? I took my fuse box apart and tried to find it, but I cant see it running there. I want to say it runs to the starter but im not 100%. I cant find **** on the internet where that wire goes. to run this big 3 can I run the 0g wire from the alternator to the battery directly?
 
when you go to the fuse box your going to the power stud at the top of the fuse box under the red cap. theres already a cable there to the alt.
 
Just go straight from the power stud on your alt to the positive on the batt., the on one of the alt mounting bolts, run a neg., right to the neg post.,
also, run a wire the same size (i.e.,0ga, 1/0ga. from the chassis to the neg on the batt.

10173605_10201466562898238_6570601775179185254_n.jpg
 


chrishova said:
Just go straight from the power stud on your alt to the positive on the batt., the on one of the alt mounting bolts, run a neg., right to the neg post.,
also, run a wire the same size (i.e.,0ga, 1/0ga. from the chassis to the neg on the batt.

10173605_10201466562898238_6570601775179185254_n.jpg
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this is for a '97, '04+ mite be different
 
Mine is a work in progress at the moment, but it's unique to say the least, lol. My head unit is Android based, running 4.2.2 currently, with and OBD2 USB adapter running Torque Pro so I can monitor the car and set up alarms for knock retard, temperature, etc. I run Power Amp for music, and have Viper4Android installed with it's EQ and such. From there it connects to an external crossover via 1 set of RCAs (more on this in a minute), that I've changed out all the OP Amps to Burr Browns and upgraded the filtering caps. For the sub I have an Orion 2150SX powering a JL W3, with a 0.5 farad cap. For the mids\highs I have an Infinity 475a 4 channel amp powering Infinity 60.9CS Kappa Components up front, and Kenwood KFC-S6983 in the rear. I also have 50 square feet of Peel N Seal, with more to put on, but it's too cold, lol. Here's some pics.
I don't have that sub amp anymore, but everything else is the same:



Peal N Seal and Infinity Woofer, outer skin of the door is also covered in Peal N Seal:



New Op amps:
dsc00484.jpg


Head Unit:
dsc00588.jpg



I've upgraded to a CS144 Alternator and dropped to a 1.9 pulley on it, so I should have around 120 amps at idle. I've ran new grounds from the battery to the frame, frame to the transmission, and frame to the alternator. I've also added charge wires to the fuse box and to the battery. Oh and I have 2 4 AWG wires run to the trunk for the 2 amps (sub amp has the cap on that wire), and my lights still dim. I'm not sure what to do about the dimming, so I'll continue fixing what i know is wrong, then worry about the dimming if it's still there. I know my Infinity amp has noise issues on the RCA inputs, and I know I need a slightly bigger sub box. I have a Memphis amp i'm in the process of repairing to replace the Infinity, and I've been talking to my local car audio shop (owned by my cousin) to buld me a new sub box, so we'll soon find out...

What do you guys think?
 
I installed the big 3 wires.
Ground from battery to chassis
Ground from battery to engine block
Power from alternator to fuse box
Power from fuse box to battery

when I click the key over to the on position before you start the car, the lights start pulsing and you can hear relays flickering, the car will start but im getting a "system charge failure" and its sitting at 12v idle opposed to 14.5 regular. whats going on?
 
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