• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

post up your audio equipment

For now, only got a alpine 7" flipout & MTX 6x9's in the rear.

Waiting to fix other things, then going to do a full kicker setup.

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gtpinsc said:
3 f*ckin years and i still cant get my EQ tuned where i want it...

premier deck, DD 1510 subs, 500D memphis M class to subs, memphis PR highs and mids, 200 memphis M class to highs and mids.
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I recently ditched my Audiocontrol DQS to try the Alpine Imprint system. Biggest advantage? It gets a lot closer to my goal in about 5 minutes vs. 3 months :)

Otherwise...once it's run, you're stuck. On the 9887 you're only left with "Treble" and "Bass". Lord knows what frequencies those are. So no more tuning once you run Imprint. So instead of wasting your gas trying to tune. You're running around with a microphone running through the RTA process.

Am I ecstatic about KTX-100eq, nope. Am I happy?...enough so that I'm not in the garage every night playing with new ideas.

I've learned two things...you can waste your time on install, or waste your time "processing". :) Either way, you'll never get the time back
 
matt5112 said:
I'm honestly shocked the internet generation doesn't shop online for car audio gear. Why does everyone buy store brand stuff?

I mean as long as you're not buying retarded stuff like this: Results for Hybrid Audio Technologies

you'll be okay. I'd rather buy scan-speak speakers before I'd buy those. :D
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From what I gather, HAT is specifically designed for active tuning. Those passive kits are just for entry level customers. Their product is designed for high level competition type people or DIY mentalities that understand how to install AND tune.
 
matt5112 said:
Glad you're doing aight lmfao.

I can't see how that'd be the greatest of things. How many sweeps does it do? I mean if it only does one, even the slightest change in position would change the results.
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It will do a maximum of 6 sweeps. And the algorithm tunes based on the seat preference you choose. You can do the whole car for EVERYBODY, Left seat, Right seat or both, front L&R seats.

For what it's supposed to be...I'd say it's a pretty good product. Downside? Most people don't have a damn clue about installation or proper setup. In the end, it screws up there system since they didn't have it setup properly.

Another major issue, if you like to get in a car that gives you headaches or forces you to regurgitate an earlier meal it will ruin the bass line. Meaning it pulls it back to something honest and decent.

It allows you to choose from three tuning slopes. Reference, Reference w/heightened mid-range, and a linear slope that starts high and ends low. You can upload up to two programs in the CDA-9887.

Personally, I think it has a hard time dealing with reflections and you end up with tweeters that need to be pushed down 3 to 6db. I can go into a lot of detail if anybody wants to know more about this...
 


In my own vehicle the best I can obtain is about 45 degrees off axis from each tweeter. Otherwise one is 45 while the other is about 15. That definitely messes with imaging in that regard. My solution was with both being 45 off center. It seems to work well with the way the dashboard is setup. The caveat is then one tweeter is aimed up while the right is aimed towards the void under the dash. The sound ends up coming through the dash and bringing up the stage. If I do the same with the driver side then the angle is too much to overcome for a decent off-axis response. That and the legs are blocking the circumstance where the passenger side tweeter benefits.

Long term, I think I'd like to try a full range speaker as close as possible to the apex of windshield and dash. Match that with some mid-bass in the doors and I think we have a winner for tone, stage/imaging, and point source. It will also help with a fundamental issue of processing; that it's only good for one seat.
 
I don't know which Polk Audio Subwoofers you guys have been having problems with, but the ones I have in my car are very good qaulity. I have the DB 212-2 sort of like what was posted earlier but different. These subs saw so much abuse from my inexperience with car audio by being hooked up to different amps with the wrong rms and ohm readings. The subs totaled 1420 watts max and twice I had powered them with a 2600 wat amp and a 2000 watt amp. Finally I got the right amp and hooked it up and to my surprise, they still hit harder then anyones subs I have heard in a while.

My brother was just recently in somebody elses car who had two L7's with a kicker 3000 watt amp, and he said mine was louder. I literally didn't believe him and said something must be wrong with his system.

These Polks that I've played around with have lasted through a great deal of abuse but still sound great and I love them.

Here they are, and they are a pretty good value for what you get:

db212-2 Car Subwoofer from Polk Audio
 


nawarkk said:
I don't know which Polk Audio Subwoofers you guys have been having problems with, but the ones I have in my car are very good qaulity. I have the DB 212-2 sort of like what was posted earlier but different. These subs saw so much abuse from my inexperience with car audio by being hooked up to different amps with the wrong rms and ohm readings. The subs totaled 1420 watts max and twice I had powered them with a 2600 wat amp and a 2000 watt amp. Finally I got the right amp and hooked it up and to my surprise, they still hit harder then anyones subs I have heard in a while.

My brother was just recently in somebody elses car who had two L7's with a kicker 3000 watt amp, and he said mine was louder. I literally didn't believe him and said something must be wrong with his system.

These Polks that I've played around with have lasted through a great deal of abuse but still sound great and I love them.

Here they are, and they are a pretty good value for what you get:

db212-2 Car Subwoofer from Polk Audio
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That IS what was posted earlier. And yes they are incredible value. Trust me, they're not louder than L7's, but they hit hard for the price and look good doing it. They're a 2007 model replaced by the DB1222 Polk Audio db1222 Ported enclosure with two 12" db Series subwoofers at Crutchfield.com
 
matt5112 said:
What they fail to mention with this:

db212_comp_graph.gif


Is that if you apply any real power below 25 Hz (this seems to be the frequency the port is tuned for) then you'll destroy the woofers by pushing them too far. :th_thumbsup-wink:

SSF's or "rumble filters" will save your speakers and you from having to shell out money for new ones.
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infrasonic filter is the correct term :D

For the uninformed...SSF = Subsonic Filter(incorrect term) Anybody tuning towards 25hz...that's weird :/ Most bandpass and ported should be utilizing an IF; especially when you just buy the box randomly and completely uninformed without knowledge of Thiele Specs or your speaker requirements.

Edit: Oh yeah, I'm not impressed with that speakers sensitivity :) It's not bad but now days we're trading sensitivity for power handling because customers have no idea that they're trading output for heat dissipation. Coincidently, you have to buy more expensive amps to run speakers properly.
 
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ZR1Vette09 said:
That IS what was posted earlier. And yes they are incredible value. Trust me, they're not louder than L7's, but they hit hard for the price and look good doing it. They're a 2007 model replaced by the DB1222 Polk Audio db1222 Ported enclosure with two 12" db Series subwoofers at Crutchfield.com
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I'm not trying to pick on you or your choice of words but technically speaking...40hz is 40hz. It doesn't matter what speaker you're talking about. If they can reproduce sound correctly they all "hit hard!".

L7's...I'm not a fan. Our generation of car audio seems to think that loud + nausea = gewd times.

You can take majority of speakers and if installed correctly, no matter if they're Xplod's, Pyle, Diesel, or some rip offs...AND if mounted correctly with attention to details of parameters specific to their needs...the average person would say "WOW!!!...amazing sound!!"

i.e. There's a car running around somewhere with a 6.5" subwoofer in a 6th order enclosure that gets around 148 decibels. I don't think that's music...test tones maybe? It gets loud for what it is. Bottom line, I think we should be more careful with the way we spend our money :D Opinions only take us so far in life.
 
well my buddy with 2 L7's in his Grand Am hit 155.4 decibels, ripped the rear view mirror and chunk of glass out, and tore up his trunk latch. Certainly that's too much for anyone IMO. I loved those db212's, they hit right for me and IDK what it was, but it seemed perfect in my blazer. If I opened the hatch and stood behind the car, they were quiet and very weak sounding, but sit in the front seat and it was a world of difference. I miss those things :'(
 
ZR1Vette09 said:
well my buddy with 2 L7's in his Grand Am hit 155.4 decibels, ripped the rear view mirror and chunk of glass out, and tore up his trunk latch. Certainly that's too much for anyone IMO. I loved those db212's, they hit right for me and IDK what it was, but it seemed perfect in my blazer. If I opened the hatch and stood behind the car, they were quiet and very weak sounding, but sit in the front seat and it was a world of difference. I miss those things :'(
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L7's FTMFW!!!
 


Thought i posted my little set up in here guess not any way
kenwood deck kicker cvr 12" 800 watt amp gravity tweets it gets the job done
suprises many that its just 1 12
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