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phil's build thread... back from the dead yet again

Poil336

Poil336

New member
so my top swap plans quickly got out of hand. i now have a bottom end torn down and an intense s2x cam in my barn. (yeah, i went ahead and bought it fellas) so, anticipating numerous questions, i'm starting a thread. current plans include to run said s2x cam with ported heads, either 105 or 150 springs, milled valve guides for clearance, ported blower, ported lim, and whatever fun parts i come across along the way. shooting to have the motor built next spring to the middle of summer, depending on money.

the concept is simple, it's (literally) the nuts and bolts of doing it. i planned on using the crank that was in the motor, but getting it re-ground due to it throwing a bearing. and then i found a chunk of crankshaft missing tonight, pics to come. i have another one, so we'll see. i'll probably have to go with the second one.

the question i have now is - the "clamps" that hold the crank in the block, is there any way to get those out without destroying them? also, what is the correct terminology for these parts? lol. i'm also assuming i'll need new crank and rod bearings, as well as new bolts, correct? what about piston rings? anything else i need to get to rebuild the bottom end?
 
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Re: phil needs help with a build

Most people on here are will probably recommend just buying a low mileage used bottom end because 1. it will save you alot of time and money. 2. stock bottom ends have been proven to hold up to heavy modding.

From what Ive read when torqueauto did his he spent like 3 grand on motor alone IIRC having it machined and new everything. used bottom ends go for like 300ish.
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

Those are called the main bearing caps.

If you build this... you will absolutely want to have it align bored, checked etc etc and probably the lower end assembled at a machine shop. Too many of us have tried to do it w/o and gotten the dreaded 200 mile motor.
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

pacothetaco said:
Most people on here are will probably recommend just buying a low mileage used bottom end because 1. it will save you alot of time and money. 2. stock bottom ends have been proven to hold up to heavy modding.

From what Ive read when torqueauto did his he spent like 3 grand on motor alone IIRC having it machined and new everything. used bottom ends go for like 300ish.
Click to expand...

i've got one, it's got 60k if i remember right. plus i'd have to take if apart to cam it anyways. i'll have a really good amount of machine work going into it, such as the align boring and getting it balanced. i'll also be doing it under the supervision of a very trusted mechanic with experience in camming/boring sbc's.
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

just get a short block.

L36 or L26 would be nice.

Then cam it and throw it in.

Only need to take the lifters and front cover off to put a cam in...
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

3 grand? I took mine to a reputable machine shop and had the heads and block done for about a grand. I had ARP/Clevite everything...bigger valves, srtonger springs, port/polish, etc. Its all in how you go about it...and as long as you take your time, double check all the torque specs...etc...Reptile, Abrasive, and myself built two motors...one high, one low compression...both with huge cams, mine with custom heads and a double roller, his with Intense heads and a new timing chain...both have over 2K on them and they aren't easy miles to say the least. Use the living god out of assembly lube...its cheap...make sure everything is right before moving on to the next thing...its just like a big puzzle. Don't let it intimidate you. And I beyond agree with Bill on the align bore...and is a NECESSITY if you have main studs. As for getting them out...they are like the old small block chevy's...we have side bolt mains...that's how you get 'em out. Also...you'll want new valve guides...OEM or bronze its your call...but I'd recommened new ones since your getting them milled for the cam. Also...I'd try and find a set of L32 heads...and use the valves from them...cheap and easy valve upgrade since they are a smidge larger. Springs, I'd get 130's from Manley...and the retainers again are your call...but I got titanium ones. If you need any help when your building it first hand...and have picture mail/text....hit me up...I'll be glad to help.
 


Re: phil needs help with a build

thanks blue, I was really hoping you'd find this.

here's the crank i wanted to use:
Photo0091.jpg


and a link to photobucket for some more pics of it and my other toys, along with my sweet workspace: http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af138/Poil336/The Grand Prix/L67/
looks like i'll be using the other one i have. i also forgot about the side bolts, rookie move there. the L32 heads probably aren't gonna happen, it'll just be out of budget. talk me out of going with the 105 springs and a new chain, i know it would be smarter to run 130's with a double roller but it's a definite step up in price.
 
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Re: phil needs help with a build

update for anyone following:

block and crank made it to the machine shop today for cleaning and regriding. might be picking up the gasket kit and bearings soon so i can get the bottom end back together. anyone know of an easy way to replace all the TTY bolts? i know there's a **** ton and i don't want to reuse any
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

ARP Head Studs are great...keep in mind if you get ARP Rod bolts you have to machine the rod to fit the ARP bolt. As for ARP Mains, the block has to be align bored for them. They are all beyond worth it for sure though.
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

head studs might be in the works, those look more than helpful. do you know of any place to just get replacement factory rod bolts so i don't have to get them machined?
 


Re: phil needs help with a build

GM Dealer...just make sure you get the L67 ones...the L67 and L32 are different. Found that out building mine since I was using L32 rods and I had L67 rod bolts.
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

bringing this thread back because you guys are the best resource.

i've been looking lately, not many places that i found at least have just replacement bottom end assembly parts. is it common to re-use main bolts, bearings, rod bolts, piston rings, stuff like that?

also, is there any special way to put everything back together? anything i need to do to set the bearings in place?
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

Everything is TTY...except for the side bolts in the mains...just be sure you keep the same bolts with the same main.

Clevite77 Main/Cam/Rod Bearings...or OEM replacements from your local auto parts store. You WANT new rings...new everything IMO...your in there...don't skimp man, trust me. You can still do it on the cheaper side too if you do it right. I used Hastings Rings...and you want to gap them 90* apart from each other...if you line them up...you get blow by...and it'll burn oil...not what you want. Just be sure to put a good chunk of assembly lube on EACH and EVERY bearing where the crank journals touch on the mains...THEN, lube the rod bearings after you set them in the rod cap and connecting rod itself...don't be afraid to use a ton of it...it never hurts to have too much lube LOL
 


Re: phil needs help with a build

Hey i have a question i just got on this fourm and gettin no help ya got a sec ?
 
Re: phil needs help with a build

thanks blue. the bottom end is just making me a little nervous, hopefully the top will be a little easier. i was hoping to be further along with this by now but i bought a truck lol. and on top of that, school and the government rocked my bank account. so yeah. still have fingers crossed for doing the swap this summer
 
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