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Performance Upgrades

SD's have a 3" downpipe. Don't relay so much on information you get from the manuf... Unless you have a set of SD laying around go measure them and report back confirmation.
 


DanPrixGTP said:
Here let me break this down into a "million" steps:

1: Intake

2: Headers

3: Plugs/Wires & Pulley Drop & Tune
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Fixt. The first two leave the car in a happy, drive-able state. Everything in step 3 ought to be done in one shot for a proper job.

blueguy91 said:
AL605's, gap them at .050".
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.060". A 3.5" pulley isn't going to be "blowing out spark." There's no need to gap smaller and lose gas mileage.
 


If OP still doesnt know how to drop to a 3.5 safely after this thread just ballooned, then he shouldnt even be modding a car.
 
A lil rude there bud?

I can read and im able to figure **** out with all the info posted here.
Only question I've got right now is about the coolant flush. Whats wrong with dexcool that it has to be flushed and replaced by green coolant? and whats the green coolant called?
 
Dexcon tends to sludge up overtime and eats the gasket. The green coolant is from auto zone I believe they brand it its the only one there beside the Dexcon you can't miss it! I don't think there's actually a name for it other then green coolant.
 
Nicolas90 said:
A lil rude there bud?
Click to expand...
Eh, don't read much into it... we're all a little too sarcastic here for our own good. We mean well, I promise.
Nicolas90 said:
Only question I've got right now is about the coolant flush. Whats wrong with dexcool that it has to be flushed and replaced by green coolant? and whats the green coolant called?
Click to expand...
There's actually nothing wrong with Dexcool if you have a healthy leak-free system. When leaks develop and the coolant levels drop, air gets in and makes oxides that cause Dexcool to get sludgy. Like all coolants, you flush it every 5 years/50,000 miles or close enough.
All pre-'06 3800s are outfitted with nylon lower intake manifold gaskets instead of aluminum, which fail from heat and pressure, causing coolant leaks. The ill-informed will tell you that Dexcool caused the gasket failure and zomg you need to use green instead. Coolant is a personal preference.

I googled coolant types for you. Some bathroom reading, I guess. How-To Matthew: Types of Coolant and Antifreeze
 


I use the GM orange in my car...and flush it yearly. But after reading this should I switch to the kind from autozone

Sent from my pager using Morse code. ... .. ... ....
 


1: Get a scan gauge/tuner

2: Intake

3: Headers

4: Plugs/Wires

5: Pulley Drop

6: Tune



here are some of my final questions for this step by step upgrade plan.

1 the scan gauge. The scan gauge must have knock ratio information or air fuel ratio or both? who makes the best one and or amy which gauge is commonly used with it for data logging aem eugo wide band?

2 why the stress on an intake change is the stock piping so restrictive its going to make the car run lean or rich for the lack off air not getting in like someone stated before a zip tied or worm clamped cone filter should be enough in this case to get by. so this is more of a piece of mind modification then a real must have the pulley can go on before this is changed.

3 headers : I dont know the reasoning behind this being a must have and a necessary item to put on before the pulley really whats stock exhaust gonna do rob a few horse power this can be changed later.

4 Plugs wires. wires i dont really see the benefit of doing only if your changing the plugs anyways. The plugs on the other hand yeah i do understand the benefit of having one step colder and newer plugs with 0 carbon build up on there.

5 Pulley drop -------

6 the tune : the tune i can agree is the single most important thing as well as the scan gauge /narrow band or wide band to this.

My final question is why could i not get away with putting in a pulley a monitoring device (afr gauge kr gauge) and a tuner or getting it tuned on 91 or 93 octane i'm not really looking to run 12s or drag race the hell out of the car i just want something that is drive able and will pass my provinces emissions requirements.
 
Stock manifolds are choking your engine when it's stock shoving more air into the motor is making it worse and will cause more KR and will probably make your car slower than stock.
 
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