Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
search a parts store web site for both, see if the part number is the same. if so it dont matter.
Oil leak
- Thread starter tomtom123
- Start date
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
if its a different # id get the gtp one cause thats what its in now.
BillBoost37
New member
Got anyone local you can swap ICM's with?
It's not common..but sometimes there's an issue with heat and ICM's.
It's not common..but sometimes there's an issue with heat and ICM's.
tomtom123
New member
Not that I know of. Unfortunately. I think Dark is one of the closest to me and he's like 3 hours away. The junkyard in town here has no 3800's I stopped there yesterday.
My timing advance was at 20.5 when it ran fine, then/now is at 22
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My timing advance was at 20.5 when it ran fine, then/now is at 22
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Last edited:
tomtom123
New member
Well I remembered just now that I had an ICM from the new motor so I changed the board for now and might do the coils later. But before I did that I jumped some stuff and had the car run for about 40 to 45 minutes idling good! I had the fuel pump resister jumped. Then unjumped it and the car ended up dying. Car isn't running too bad right now with the new board and that resister jumped.
My ltft's were jumping up and down randomly with each different start.
One start it would be between like 0 and like 13.7 or something. Next start it would be 18.8 up to 20.3. Then for a while it was stuck right at 16.4. When it was stuck at 16.4 was when it ran for like 40 to 45 mins straight without any hiccups!
The stft's jumped around a lot too. One point the bottomed out at like -15 but other than that they were mostly around 0 to 20.3 (not usually this high but spiked there once). It spent most of its time between 5.3 ish and like 16.4.
I pretty much eliminated pump and fuel pressure. But tomorrow I will try to rent a fuel pressure guage while I'm in town just to make sure.
Pretty much narrowed it down to MAF. I say this because of the symptoms of the MAF going bad and I have about every extreme of it...
One time my car will run smooth but stall out randomly. Then next time it runs rough and is throwing a misfire code and dies. Then next time it may run smooth but when I quickly press the throttle it bogs right down and cuts power and eventually stalls. Mind you I haven't driven the car at all in a few months, and just replaced the broken brake line I had.
I cleaned my MAF again really good and am going to try that once more before I go and replace it probably with one from a JY so it hopefully has a 30 day or so warrenty and this is mainly to see if this is the issue or not.
So I will keep everyone posted.
By the way, does anyone know roughly what the MAF should be reading for cfm at idle?
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My ltft's were jumping up and down randomly with each different start.
One start it would be between like 0 and like 13.7 or something. Next start it would be 18.8 up to 20.3. Then for a while it was stuck right at 16.4. When it was stuck at 16.4 was when it ran for like 40 to 45 mins straight without any hiccups!
The stft's jumped around a lot too. One point the bottomed out at like -15 but other than that they were mostly around 0 to 20.3 (not usually this high but spiked there once). It spent most of its time between 5.3 ish and like 16.4.
I pretty much eliminated pump and fuel pressure. But tomorrow I will try to rent a fuel pressure guage while I'm in town just to make sure.
Pretty much narrowed it down to MAF. I say this because of the symptoms of the MAF going bad and I have about every extreme of it...
One time my car will run smooth but stall out randomly. Then next time it runs rough and is throwing a misfire code and dies. Then next time it may run smooth but when I quickly press the throttle it bogs right down and cuts power and eventually stalls. Mind you I haven't driven the car at all in a few months, and just replaced the broken brake line I had.
I cleaned my MAF again really good and am going to try that once more before I go and replace it probably with one from a JY so it hopefully has a 30 day or so warrenty and this is mainly to see if this is the issue or not.
So I will keep everyone posted.
By the way, does anyone know roughly what the MAF should be reading for cfm at idle?
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BillBoost37
New member
If you left the maf unplugged... you'd know if it was the maf
tomtom123
New member
I unplugged the MAF and let the car run and it ran for a while and made the 02 read between .7 and .9 volts and the exhaust was really strong. I plugged it back in after a while and the 02 started reading about .1 to .3 or .4 volts and no matter what the car will still eventually stall. So I guess I don't know whats left to do unless anyone else had any ideas?
I have about 3 or 4 symptoms of MAF malfuntions, just missing the code. And the only code that I get is p0300 so random misfires. Which could be associated with MAF or also the cam.
I replaced the CPS with a brand new one and rhe same exact issue occured again
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I have about 3 or 4 symptoms of MAF malfuntions, just missing the code. And the only code that I get is p0300 so random misfires. Which could be associated with MAF or also the cam.
I replaced the CPS with a brand new one and rhe same exact issue occured again
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tomtom123
New member
Update:
Got the fuel pressure kit from Autozone, $160 rent.. pressure was 50psi when car was off and key was on. It would fall very slowly. As the car would run it would idle right around 41 - 43psi. After the car warmed up and the fans turned on snd off, the car would start acting up and it would drop to about 15 - 20psi and run like crap until eventually it would drop to about 8 - 10psi and die or catch itself and idle crappy around 15 - 20psi.
Going to replace the fuel filter in the morning.
Does anyone know what the purple wire to the fuel pump harness is? It would ohm out at 0 like the ground wires on the same plug.
Anyone have any ideas as to why the pump randomly drops pressure like this? Not a power problem either. I ran a wire from the battery to the relay 14 #30 pin and had the same issue. The pump starts sounding high pitch and then pressure drops.
Does this sound more like filter or pump? Or something else?
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Got the fuel pressure kit from Autozone, $160 rent.. pressure was 50psi when car was off and key was on. It would fall very slowly. As the car would run it would idle right around 41 - 43psi. After the car warmed up and the fans turned on snd off, the car would start acting up and it would drop to about 15 - 20psi and run like crap until eventually it would drop to about 8 - 10psi and die or catch itself and idle crappy around 15 - 20psi.
Going to replace the fuel filter in the morning.
Does anyone know what the purple wire to the fuel pump harness is? It would ohm out at 0 like the ground wires on the same plug.
Anyone have any ideas as to why the pump randomly drops pressure like this? Not a power problem either. I ran a wire from the battery to the relay 14 #30 pin and had the same issue. The pump starts sounding high pitch and then pressure drops.
Does this sound more like filter or pump? Or something else?
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BillBoost37
New member
sounds like when the pump warms up.. it has issues.
tomtom123
New member
That is what I'm thinking too.
I'll change my fuel filter today and see if that does anything then I'll look into getting a new pump.
Any suggestions on what pump to get? Comp Cam's extreme energy cam and 3.4/3.2" pulley. 3.4 is on right now until I get the car on tge road for a while and make sure I have no knock
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Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
id still test the pressure at the rail before buying a new pump. test it cold, and warmed up. leave the gauge in while it runs so you can see if it changes.
you can buy just the pump for like 30 bucks on line. you take your old pump out of the canister, and replace it. easy to do.
you can buy just the pump for like 30 bucks on line. you take your old pump out of the canister, and replace it. easy to do.
tomtom123
New member
Yeah, yesterday I had the pressure gauge hooked up for a few hours while testing different things and found after a while the pump drops pressure even when the car was off and the 14 relay was jumped straight from the battery. The pump after about 15 minutes starts sounding high pitch as if it's struggling to work or working really hard and the pressure then drops to about 15 - 20 psi.
Then when I unjump the pump and re-jump it really fast it jumps up to 50 again and then after a little bit drops back down to 15 - 20 psi.
So as Bill said, I think after the pump warms up it starts malfunctioning and the high pitch noise tells me when the pump is messing up even without the pressure gauge on the rail
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Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
pump time for sure. like i posted find just a pump. replace it. the whole canister is like 150 and up. and your canister and fuel level sender is still good, so why waste the money?