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Oh where o where o start

B

bman

New member
Ok. So here's what I have. 2001 Grand Prix GTP SC model, multiple issues.

Bought the car used for my 18 yo. Small cosmetic issues and what I thought was a bad blower for the AC.

- AC Blower motor not getting correct amount of power. When I set to "3" for the AC, I can get very little light on my test light. On 4, no light.


Took to AutoZone to check and see if there were any computer issues... List below:


- Check Coolant Level (it's good)
- Check connector wiring sensor
- Engine Coolant temperature sensor defective
- Dirty transmission fluid
- TCC solenoid Fault
- Inernal Transmission Fault
- Thermostat defective
- Check trigger wheel for damage
- Crank sensor defective
- Lockup contol valve stuck
- Tcm Fault


Now I'm no mechanic but the car runs good so there's no way all these are actual issues. I keep leaning towards replacing the computer for the car. Any suggestions would be more than welcome!!!

Thanks,

B
 


The blower motor resistor is still bad. If you have any codes list them and it'll be easier to figure out what's wrong with your car.
 
Already replaced the Blower fan. Made no difference. The slight light from the tester comes from he panel controls, not while it's hooked to the fan.
 
Not the motor the resistor right in front of the motor. Put a new thermostat in your car and see if it clears up the code.
 
those might be codes from before that were never cleared...it happens alot...hell put mine on the major scanner and it gave me every code that was ever on my car lol
 


Ok. I'll change the thermostat when I get back from work and take it back in. I'll see if I can find the resistor also. I didn't see it the first time but I also wasn't looking for it.
 
Always start by clearing codes and driving the car. Then after a few days check codes again. Any reoccurance of codes should be noted. Get the actual code numbers and we can help out.
 
Will the codes reset by disconnecting the battery? Or do I need to bring it back to the autoparts store and ask them to clear them?
 
Ok. Found a few things. Let’s start with the important. The radiator in the car was bad. That's why the transmission was having issues. Transmission fluid was leaking into the coolant bay within the radiator then backing up in the reservoir and pouring out of the overflow. Changed the Radiator and flushed everything. Now the car is running correctly with shifting and cooling. Additionally the individual that I bought the car from obviously did not know that the thermostat required a gasket because it was just sitting in there. Now the thermostat is working correctly.

The blower fan would not work until I installed a bypass and a toggle switch. As far as I can tell the compressor for the AC will not turn on also. The blower fan for the venting system works great (obviously) on the toggle switch so I left it like that while I came back to work. What do you feel would be next? There are 3 (or 4, I can't remember) relays within the engine compartment fuse box for different parts of the AC. Should I replace all those first? The dash controls for the AC do work in the sense that you can change where the air goes and the AC light comes on even though the compressor and secondary fan for the radiator does not come on.

I wanted to change the Crank Position Sensor but I did not have the correct tool to remove the pully/harmonic Dampner without dropping the engine down. Is there a tool on the market that will allow this without the pain of shifting the engine around?

Thanks for all the advise guys/gals. I appreciate it and so does my son! :-)
 


You have probly already checked, but i gotta ask... have you made shure there is refrigerant in the system? if there is not enough pressure to close the low pressure switch it will not try to start.
 
You should be able to get the harmonic balancer puller at any autoparts store.Doesnt have to be anything special, just a generic HB puller.You just gotta find the right bolts for it.

I did both of mine without dropping the cradle, but it probly would be easyer with it dropped a little.
 
No, I haven't checked the refrigerant. I know it wouldn't "cool" off the air but I wasn't aware that the compressor wouldn't even start nor that the secondary fan wouldn't kick on. Didn't realize the car had a sensor to check for that and shut off the system. To me (in my tiny little mind, ha ha) if the blower fan wasn't working from the control panel and the secondary fan under the hood and the compressor for the ac wasn't kicking on that there was something wrong other than the refrigerant. I guess I'll have to get that checked when I get home.

I'll go to another autozone but all they had was a two bolt pully puller. I needed a three way and the only three way I could find wasnt even close to fitting on the pully and clearing all the other stuff under the wheel well. I already got 3 M6x1.00x75mm bolts so that shouldn't be an issue. Car still runs at least so I have time to find a place with an appropriate puller.

Again, thanks for all the help. This puppy is a working progress but I know it will be worth it when I'm done.
 
It could very well be something other than refrigerant, i just figure easyest stuff first.lol.Goodluck with the project bman:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Right on. I'm with you on the easy stuff. Just hoped someone had the same problem and could do a little "steering in the right direction" :-) I was going to check the level anyhow when I got home. I'll update in a couple of weeks after hopefully having a fully charged AC system and a new Crank position sensor.
 


bman said:
The blower fan would not work until I installed a bypass and a toggle switch. As far as I can tell the compressor for the AC will not turn on also. The blower fan for the venting system works great (obviously) on the toggle switch so I left it like that while I came back to work.
Click to expand...
Did you try installing a new blower motor resistor as was suggested? It's a very common issue on these cars.
You won't need to drop the cradle to get the harmonic balancer pulley off.
 
I couldn't find the resistor. Does anyone have a picture of the location??? I have a hard time getting under the dash and I think I might just be missing it. I couldn't wait on the by-pass because without the blower working at all the windows would fog up and I couldn't let my kid use it with that happenning. The bypass is only temp till I get home. The resistor shouldn't cause the A/C compressor and secondary cooling fan to not kick on though right?
 
Resistor is right behind the blower. Lay upside down in the pass seat with your head where your feet should be and you'll see it.
 
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