Timing
New member
Its been explained. Basicly the xp cam needs higher springs the gain its full potential without valve float there for the other 2 cams are better if your going to run 105s and a stock chain.
Nic or XP?
- Thread starter Timing
- Start date
Its been explained. Basicly the xp cam needs higher springs the gain its full potential without valve float there for the other 2 cams are better if your going to run 105s and a stock chain.
False.... I have seen many people run the XP on 105s (and a few on 90s) and have no issue with valve float with shift points around 6500~
SnowFlake
Banned
XP/105s chewed through my stock damper in 8k miles. It was broken and making a hell of a noise.
Stock springs would never be able to control the valves when using an NIC cam...
The XP and S1x may as well be the same cam. If anything the S1x would have more 'top end' because it has a tighter LSA. I'm being facetious though, there's no discernible difference.
Out of all 3 cam choices, the NIC will be the toughest on the springs and chain. Lift isn't what kills springs/chains... it's ramp rates.
16MustangVet
New member
depends on how much you want to change to make a double roller fit right is all I was trying to point out. Stock or single roller doesn't require any other changes or double gaskets or whatever.
16MustangVet
New member
So basically your saying the s1x would be easier on the valve train because it can get away with not revving as high and needed a bigger spring? 105s on a s1x seem to be just fine? Between choosing a cam that revs vs a cam that has more low end power for a DD the choice should be obvious......
Timing
New member
I imagine your running a double roller right? How many miles? Know anyone thats been running one for awhile with no issues? If i can sacrifice a tiny but of performance so i dont have to get a double roller and have the issues ive heard from most people it has i will.
While I can not call snowflake a liar(honestly I'm not) I have a friend locally that currently runs XP on 105s for 2 years and ZERO valve train/timing chain issues. He stayed on a stock chain and new dampener
Timing
New member
I was reading a thread earlier of a guy running an xp with 105s and stock chain damp for 60k miles and getting ready to change them out. Dont know his shift points but still.
This is a widely opinionated topic which is why its so hard to decide. Like i said earlier i want facts so i can put pros vs cons and make a educated decision.
This is a widely opinionated topic which is why its so hard to decide. Like i said earlier i want facts so i can put pros vs cons and make a educated decision.
16MustangVet
New member
2 years does not equal X amount of miles......
how many miles has he put on the car if its only been like 2k in the last 2 years than what your saying doesn't mean much. Longevity is key and a factor for a DD car.
Well since it's not my car I can't honestly give you a number, but in spring/ summer /fall it is his everyday driver .
SnowFlake
Banned
Again I was honestly not calling you a liar just pointing out maybe yours was an isolated incident?
16MustangVet
New member
Miles, longevity and reliability are key not X amount of time, depends on if he drives 5 miles to work or 100.
Same with the OP, how many miles do you plan on driving or average a year? No point is skimping on parts then have to tear it apart because something is wearing out because you rack up a lot of miles.
Same with the OP, how many miles do you plan on driving or average a year? No point is skimping on parts then have to tear it apart because something is wearing out because you rack up a lot of miles.
What I'm telling you is he drives the car regularly. I would guess 10-12k a year? That's just a guess.
SnowFlake
Banned
Let's see if I can explain this to you. I'm not the best at explaining things, I just sort of unconsciously understand them.
NIC
Xtreme 4x4 lobes
lobe # 3306/3308
rated: 269/279 .316
@ .050: 220/230
Intake
Off seat 49*
.200 RR 82*
Exhaust
off seat 49*
.200 RR 85*
LSA 112
XP
XE Lobes
lobe # 3312/3314
rated 264/276 .325/335
@ .050 212/224
Intake
off seat 52*
.200 RR 79*
Exhaust
off seat 52*
.200 RR 79*
LSA 116
To determine how tough a cam is on your valve train (gauging what kind of springs/chain you need) you want to look primarily at how the cam opens off the seat.
In the case of the NIC vs XP, the XP cam is easier on the valve train from rated duration (.006) to .050, taking 52* to reach .050 vs the NIC cam 49*. This is where you risk the valve bouncing if you under spring.
From .050 to .200, the XP is more aggressive. This is not as tough on the valve train as off the seat ratings. The more aggressive ramp rate from .050 to .200 means more power. Couple that with the fact that the XP has higher lift... which does not necessarily mean 'higher rpm'... the cam sees peak lift every revolution no matter the engine speed.
In closing, the NIC is unnecessarily tough on the valve train without giving the same gains as the XP.
It gets worse mpg, idles worse, has a very very tight LSA (narrow/higher power band), makes less power, and is in every measurable way inferior to the XP cam.
I couldn't get info on the S1x lobes because I believe they're made by cam motion, and there's a lack of info on their lobes floating around.
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