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New OEM Brake line won't stop leaking!

B

bigdan002001

New member
I bought a brand new AC delco driver's side front brake line 10425230 as well as new passengers side one, and where the new driver's side one threads into the ABS unit, I can't seem to get it tight enough to stop leaking back up thru fitting between fitting and line? I keep snugging it tighter and thought finally had it to stop, but as soon as I got the car fired back up and the booster was helping, now it seeps again. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan
 


Did it go in smooth? I always struggle getting the connections in right. Could have a piece of dirt or rust in there that's causing it not to seal.
 
Yes threads in and down just fine. Bore is perfectly clean. The line doesn't tighten down for a long ways down though either. The bubble flare on line looks to be fine too? It doesn't leak at threads but back up thru where line goes inside fitting.
 
I had a little trouble with this too and I had to keep tightening very small amounts until it stopped.
 
Yeah well that didn't work. I took line back out to find all the threads inside the ABS pump are gone. So I am picking up a used ABS pump today.
 


i always turn the line nut backwards while holding it in place, you will feel it click and drop, now try to turn it in, doing this lines up the starter threads, then get the line nut to thread in by hand, wiggle the line if need be. dont ever just put a wrench to it until its hand threaded first.

seems like you cross threaded it and ate up the threads.
 
Actually no...turns out the new line I bought from GM had a bad thread on coupler fitting which cut threads out all the way down. Threads were improperly cut...figures another inferior GM part. Same thing was wrong with my new AC Delco steering pressure line.....fitting was messed up on it to so had to go get a new one at local parts store. I'm done buying junk ac Delco parts at twice the price and zero quality control. So I cut the end off my brand new line and put fitting off old line onto new one and bubble flared end and put it into new abs pump. This one threaded in perfectly fine unlike new ac Delco junk one. However now after installing and bleeding all 4 lines and starting up car the abs light is now on? Either the junk yard abs pump is bad or I believe it's because there is air inside pump. Pedal is very mushy and I can hear fluid swishing sound under hood when brakes are applied. Is there a way to bleed abs pump without taking to dealer?
Thanks,
Dan
 
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Not same thing at all..brand new part should not have ****ty threads especially one that cost 80 bucks....total garbage....it threaded by hand down fairly far before it got harder to turn.
 
There's a bleeding procedure for the abs unit, I found it on AutoZone's site. You can also have it done with a shop scan tool.
 


bad parts suck, but those need to be handled with some care, should only need the wrench to make it tight. should thread in all the way by hand. if it dont, stop take it out and double check things.

i f ed up my fair share line nuts and learned from my mistakes. hell i just twisted my trans cooler line off, so im still f ing up my self lol
 
No harm scotty....just frustrated with all the cash I've spent on this car and I'm not a noob when it comes to mechanics. I just finished rebuilding Trans and going through engine and finally got all back together cause my daughter needs her car and just frustrated with these stupid little things that keep costing me time and money....
 
Nope no scanner that's cheap that I know of, but the instructions don't use the scan tool to do it, the scan tool is just another way
 
what year is this car? 97 and 98 will need the scan tool to re home the motors if you took them off. if you didnt open them up theres two bleeders on the abs pump, only 97-98. bleed them first, then do each wheel.
 


I logged into my account on Autozone's website and there is nothing on how to bleed abs pump for my car. It's a 2002 GT. I read online that the only way you bleed a Delphi DBC-7 or a Bosch 5.3 is with use of pressure bleeder which I have as well as the use of scan tool to activate pump to cycle at each wheel while bleeding. Which one of these is on my 2002? I first thought DBC-7 but after looking online might be 5.3? Also, should I try to swap out the electronic controller with my old one which I had no ABS light on the dash with? Or is it because of the air trapped in the previously empty junkyard abs unit that I installed?
 
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Well turns out that the new electronic abs controlled does in deed need to be programmed to my car and that's why lights are on immediately after turning on key. So I'll be swapping out the electronic portion this evening. I called shop to have them purge abs and he told me to just swap back in electronic controller that was fine and then drive in stone lot and activate abs a few times to cycle and purge air out of unit then go back and bleed all 4 wheels again and that should take care of it.
 
Took battery post off for over an hour....swapped out the EBCM with the original one and light went away and all of that is back to normal again. Now to only get the pedal back? I think that I might have to try to bleed the master cylinder because when passengers side line broke a year ago most if not all the fluid was gone from master so it might have air in it now. Figured I'd break the two fitting loose on side of master one at a time and have someone push pedal down to expel any air inside master, tighten line then let up on pedal, the crack open and push down again. Figured I'd try that to see if I could get mushy pedal gone cause all 4 wheels fluid comes out with no bubbles at all through clear plastic tubing. Was wondering if and when I do go and activate abs where will the trapped air go that's inside of the abs module now? Will it shove it out through the 4 lines to the wheels and thus cause for rebleeding each wheel afterwards? I looked all over the module and couldn't seem to find any bleeder screws as was mentioned earlier?
Thanks,
Dan
 
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