• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

New exhaust work: now my performance SUCKS!!!!

follow the egr up from the exhaust manifold that is more towards the driver and it will end up under the Throttle body.........
 


OK...So NOW what?!?!??!?

I am sooo friggin' PISSED!!!!:th_angry-teeth:

I know I didn't update you guy's but here is the scoop....

Got a better/more thorough(sp.) diag done from a more reputable shop. Results and price quote are as follows:
camshaft position sensor: $142
crankshaft position sensor: $123
ignition module: $298
ignition module rewiring: $60
Labor: $325

Thing is:
1. I am being charged triple the amount for the parts, (can find the sensors but can't find the ignition module anywhere!)

2. Don't know where to go to have the work done (programing) where it will be done right and it wont cost an arm and a leg

Not to mention that there was something said about the sending unit in the fuel tank (something about a sensor) I couldn't hear because of the dollar signs that were stuck in my ear!!!!

This adds to the fact that I still need a heater core (just figured that one out a coulpe a days ago), front bearings, and rear struts!!!! (add another grand)

I'm really not feeling this sh** at the moment. I still have cosmetic issue I would've liked to have handled on the car.

With the price of the car, repairs made, and mechanical repair needed, I'm looking at over $5000, and still no cosmetic changes. I would like new front facia, hood and fenders, seats carpet and paint (It's beat up). BUT WTF?!?!?!?:th_shakinghead1:

I should've known better....:th_depressed:

I would'nt mind If this money was spent to modify the vehicle (for speed and keep it smog legal) but hell, I'm spending money and getting nowhere! I'm sure I couldv'e done better.

Rant over.
 
Billy. To change a crank sensor you untension the two belts and put the car in the air, pull off the passenger tire and splash shield. Remove crank bolt and using a balancer puller remove balancer. Then the plastic shield is popped off (behind HB) and two 13mm bolts hold the sensor on. The sensor costs ~$30 at any parts store. The job itself takes any competent mechanic under 20 minutes.

The cam sensor is one 10mm bolt, wiggle old out and new in. Probably takes 20 minutes because it's all braille.

The ICM is swapped out with a 5.5mm socket and a 7mm socket. 10 minutes if you drink a beer while doing it.

Most of us have extra ignition module wiring hanging around. Want me to ship you one? $10.. that covers $5 for priority shipping and $5 for the time to drop it off

Now..if you actually think half of the stuff they told you needs to be done, smack yourself in the forehead so hard that you wake up next week. The exhaust shop was taking you badly. This place is even worse and I don't see mention of vasoline. If you get any of this work done by them, then you better have gotten lube otherwise your rear will hurt for months to come.

You are part of a forum that might have members close to you. Ask around, find out who can help you. Members help members all the time. And it doesn't cost thousands of dollars.

Phew..those prices etc really had me riled up. :th_angry2:
 
PS..since they were f'n with the exhaust. Check the O2 sensor in the rear exhaust manifold. If it's touching a spark plug wire, move it so it won't. Then start the car, if it's fixed I'll accept the title of :th_king-evil:.

Then I'll tell ya where to send the check.
 
yes.........listen to mr. boost........we can help you through it. even if all of that you have bad, we can get you through it much cheaper......
 


BillBoost37 said:
Billy. To change a crank sensor you untension the two belts and put the car in the air, pull off the passenger tire and splash shield. Remove crank bolt and using a balancer puller remove balancer. Then the plastic shield is popped off (behind HB) and two 13mm bolts hold the sensor on. The sensor costs ~$30 at any parts store. The job itself takes any competent mechanic under 20 minutes.

The cam sensor is one 10mm bolt, wiggle old out and new in. Probably takes 20 minutes because it's all braille.

The ICM is swapped out with a 5.5mm socket and a 7mm socket. 10 minutes if you drink a beer while doing it.

Most of us have extra ignition module wiring hanging around. Want me to ship you one? $10.. that covers $5 for priority shipping and $5 for the time to drop it off

Now..if you actually think half of the stuff they told you needs to be done, smack yourself in the forehead so hard that you wake up next week. The exhaust shop was taking you badly. This place is even worse and I don't see mention of vasoline. If you get any of this work done by them, then you better have gotten lube otherwise your rear will hurt for months to come.

You are part of a forum that might have members close to you. Ask around, find out who can help you. Members help members all the time. And it doesn't cost thousands of dollars.

Phew..those prices etc really had me riled up. :th_angry2:
Click to expand...

Cool, and I REALLY appreciate the help, but where do I get the ICM, (still can't find one) and what about the tuning (the suppliers I found that did carry but out of stock had to have them reprogramed...supposedly)?!

BTW, Yer right, there was no vaseline for miles around! see how pissed I was getting! I know I have been inactive the last 15 years when it comes to auto mechanics for some time but I'm not a F***ING idiot!!!

PS. When did they start programing modules on site? These units used to be plug and play from what I remember! But then again, that was 15 years ago.
 
Last edited:
Did the Vasoline Bandits tell you programming was required? :th_laugh-lol3: Tell those :th_jester: jokers that they are on crack.

First off..your ICM doesn't sound like it's bad. Let's diagnose this here on the forum and then we'll only make you replace what is needed. That way you can have money to buy the beer at the next meet. :th_thumbsup-wink:.

The only programming needed is the pcm and it doens't need any programming today.

Starting off right, we need to know what codes the car is currently giving you. Remind us of the symptoms about how it's driving and if you checked that O2 sensor yet. (If not..this is a good time to run out, do it and lie to us that you already checked it before)
 
My money is on the crank sensor, and that the first shop loosened the set screw and moved it out of tolerance to get you to come back and pay $600 for a 10min fix.
 
GeeBee said:
My money is on the crank sensor, and that the first shop loosened the set screw and moved it out of tolerance to get you to come back and pay $600 for a 10min fix.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately there's no set screw or adjustment on a Series 2 or 3 motor. They did away with that stuff around 1995 or earlier.
 
I need my head kicked in!!!!

I should stomp on my own Willy Wonka (if I could)!:th_angry-cussing:

Due to my crazy schedule, today was the first time since I have purchased this blasted vehicle that I have actually looked under the hood with a descerning eye. I will try to get picks of what I found.

Boy, It's funny how guys can really try to get your money!

Stay tuned.
 


You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top