• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Nasty Plugs Look!

Ok so I put in a new o2 sensor. Bent the tab out like scotty said to. rechecked the vac lines. I did find some more of the charcoal plugging the evap canister purge valve. the short line to the evap vac switch was plugged to the point I couldnt blow it through and the valve was plugged but none in the line that returns to the TB. I unplugged the battery for 30 mins then started the car. it idled good for about 5 mins annnden.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugbflpPMDYY&feature=youtu.be
the MIL code see is a P0135 and i just changed the o2. Is it possible since my car has a cat delete some one extended the pre cat o2 to be the post cat o2 they way the wiring looks it might have happened. so if i put a post cat o2 in a pre cat connection would it through a code? im lost again
 


once the cars warmed up that code should not affect how it runs, thats a heater code.

maybe a vac leak still i see the tach jumps up and down some.
 
car not on the road it was a auction car from wounded warrior so it comes with no plates. In oregon we have this thing called DEQ which isdasqfw
 


is emissions. In order to get plates i need to buy a trip permit that last for 3 weeks then take it to the station to do a vin check and emissions check. I wont make it there like it is. Thanks for the compliment i really like it i just want it to run right so i can do what i need to so i can drive it. post sorry for the typo in the last post i fell off a chair i was standing on while typing and after the fall the computer reset and it posted it lol im ok tho. my wife said i told you so
 
NJ too. you sell your car you keep the plates. they are yours, not the cars.

hell we cant cancel our insurance unless we show the receipt from the mvc that they were turned in.
 
state ran racket.. oregon is to its gona cost me 220 buck to title transfer deq and vin inspection, register and plates...racket least here the car keeps the plates if you sell it private party but dealer and auction the car looses the plates
 
why does the car run good for a bit then start to idle dance? I would think that with a vac leak it would just do it the whole time
 
when its cold its in closed loop, why the idle is high, when its warmed up the sensors take over. and the idle drops. then runs poorly cause that code i guess or other issue.

almost seems like a misfire. but i cant really hear it in the vid.
 


doesnt a misfire always through a code and the MIL flash? that hasnt happened just codes. p0102 p0440 p0172 p0134 and 5 the p0135 is just the latest ive th only one i have not addressed is the p0102
 
misfires dont always make the light flash. but the maf code could make it idle poorly. you try the maf un plugged trick yet? unplug it car off fire it up see if it runs better. if it does maf is bad. that code is low circuit, so check the pig tail wires to the maf for damage. missing insulation, bare wire showing, any of that, install a new pigtail.

the up stream o2 wires, they drop down from the top of the engines harness. the rear o2 the wires come from under the car near the rack form another part of the cars harness under the heat shield to the cat back flange area. cant see why any one would re run them wires like that.
 
ill look at those wires and try the MAF trick in the morning. I do think the o2 wires do comedown from the top of the engine driver side and route down. in a insulated heat tube i checked them the other day when i checked to see if there were melted. The car is from virgina and there is no cat reqierment there so i was thinking they did that not to have to weld a bung into the header and still get the precat readings to the pcm. Im pretty sure the intense pcm has a cat delete tune
 
i unplugged the maf no difference. so i said screw it i took the MAP TPS and IAC off the other engine i have put them on (broke the MAF :th_crying1:) im sure it was faulty anyways :). after a brief stumble when it 1st started things seem much better at idle on up to 2k rpms ima take it for a lil spin tonight and see if she drives without throwing a DTC
 


No DTCs on the test drive. I let it warm up and took it out Started off good but i let off the gas and it started to chug hesitated when pushing the throttle but then re engaged. accelerated great started to chug again when applying the brakes then died when i came to a complete. Started right back up but had the same problems. So all in all no glory. IDK
 
I did take your trick tip today be for i changed the sensors and it didnt make any difference. the car still died after it warmed up thats when i changed the other sensors
attachment.php
what is this item above the map i dont have one on my 97
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top