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mpg?

Your stock recommended tire pressure should be about 30psi, your tire is probably rated for 51 psi max. I have actually experimented with tire pressures a lot. In my experience 32-35psi is where y0ou want to be, but winter is upon us so 32psi better, if you plan on stopping in the snow. And besides you’ll only get about .1 mpg per 2-3 psi increase past about 32 psi in my experience. More over, not even many of the fool hyper-milers run over 50 psi. Trust me, if you like stopping your vehicle don’t go over 40 psi.
Your EGR leans out your AF ratio, that alone might be your problem. If you check engine light is on, you need to tell us! Your car most likely is running rich, in other words your using more fuel than needed. I don’t have much experience with EGRs, but I’d start by checking it for blockage. And replace it that doesn’t work. EGRs can’t cost much.
 


cerick08GP said:
Your stock recommended tire pressure should be about 30psi, your tire is probably rated for 51 psi max. I have actually experimented with tire pressures a lot. In my experience 32-35psi is where y0ou want to be, but winter is upon us so 32psi better, if you plan on stopping in the snow. And besides you’ll only get about .1 mpg per 2-3 psi increase past about 32 psi in my experience. More over, not even many of the fool hyper-milers run over 50 psi. Trust me, if you like stopping your vehicle don’t go over 40 psi.
Your EGR leans out your AF ratio, that alone might be your problem. If you check engine light is on, you need to tell us! Your car most likely is running rich, in other words your using more fuel than needed. I don’t have much experience with EGRs, but I’d start by checking it for blockage. And replace it that doesn’t work. EGRs can’t cost much.
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Average price I see for an EGR valve is $200 CAD or higher. Lemme check it right now... $280 CAD with cost being $170 for BWD part# EGR1095. Thats the cost for a retail store like Autozone.
 
blowfishRus6 said:
i can get the same mpg at 80 that i can at 60. i dont think that matters.
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I knew someone would say this, someone always does. I have two things to say about that.

#1 Ya right. Sure you do. I think I’ll start driving 80mph to save time then. And when the cops pull me over, I’ll tell them I’m going GREEN!:th_thumbsup-wink:

#2 Maybe, if mpg at 60 is for crap. Then your mpg at 80 might be equally as crappy.:th_shakinghead1:
　
 
cerick08GP said:
I knew someone would say this, someone always does. I have two things to say about that.

#1 Ya right. Sure you do. I think I’ll start driving 80mph to save time then. And when the cops pull me over, I’ll tell them I’m going GREEN!:th_thumbsup-wink:

#2 Maybe, if mpg at 60 is for crap. Then your mpg at 80 might be equally as crappy.:th_shakinghead1:
　
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it is crap, 30+ mpg...


your not the only one that has done testing with this :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Highest fuel efficiency would be lowest RPM's in top gear in a simplistic world. Throw in drag and things get interesting... 30+ is only possible if you do stupid things such as throw it into neutral going down a hill etc.
 


no sir its not.


there have been people to get 35+ going 95+ for a given amout of time on the highway.

ive gotten 25mpg in the CITY before. hit just about every redlight and even raced a caddy uphill. this was calculated by the amout of fuel i put in and the millage i got out of it. 30+ on the highway is doable.
 
meh, ill x2 it, cuz in my case, it is true. my car also gets the same mileage weather im goin 60mph or 80mph. roughly 27-28mpg
 
blowfishRus6 said:
no sir its not.


there have been people to get 35+ going 95+ for a given amout of time on the highway.

ive gotten 25mpg in the CITY before. hit just about every redlight and even raced a caddy uphill. this was calculated by the amout of fuel i put in and the millage i got out of it. 30+ on the highway is doable.
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In a GP? I mean, I could get stupid mileage out of an Echo.

I typically hit every red light and get 16-18 MPG city and I don't let the damn thing past 3K RPM 90% of the time. I don't use the highway but country roads doing 90 km/h (56 mph) I'll get 25-28 MPG so I know the car works properly, just don't drive on what they consider an "ideal" streets.
 
Its not so much how you drive, but where you drive and what you drive. The less you have to stop or slow down, the higher your gas mileage. Little thing known as inertia.
 


OMG! I went out to super tonight, but just for fun I took the interstate to a restaurant in a near by town. I went 80 mph the whole way there, and I got awesome gas mileage. Holy molly, I’m definitely going with option #1

I’m going GREEN baby! :th_liar:
 
I'm currently getting 18-20 MPG but my overdrive isn't working, so when I'm driving down the highway I'm actually driving in 3rd gear....

What is your tachometer reading when Your doing say 70-75mph?

If your doing more than 3,000 rpms doing 70 MPH you might not have overdrive either...

anybody else back me up on this?!!
 
about 2000rpms give or take, and yes the service light is on like i said, it says insufficent egr flow, im gonna clean it and see what it does, as far as the o2 sensors i know one is gone for sure i see the wires tucked in where the u bend used to be, but there is no code and idk where any others are but no codes, and the light will come on for a day or 2 then go off for like a week, or if i delete it, it dosent come back on for like 10 days or so, i was told the reason the o2 code dont come on is because i may have a tune but i dont know how to tell, i am getting the powertuner this sunday, so maybe that will help
 
the tire does say 51 max but since i have 245 45 18 it seems like if i hit a pot whole it will bend my rim? correct me if im wrong.....its just michigan roads suck.....these are just my summer wheels i have stock wheels to put on for winter
 


bensett004 said:
about 2000rpms give or take, and yes the service light is on like i said, it says insufficent egr flow, im gonna clean it and see what it does, as far as the o2 sensors i know one is gone for sure i see the wires tucked in where the u bend used to be, but there is no code and idk where any others are but no codes, and the light will come on for a day or 2 then go off for like a week, or if i delete it, it dosent come back on for like 10 days or so, i was told the reason the o2 code dont come on is because i may have a tune but i dont know how to tell, i am getting the powertuner this sunday, so maybe that will help
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Your car came with two O2 sensors. The sensor you’re missing basically only tests the catalytic converter, which you probably don’t have any more either. But you still have the one right behind your engine, take flashlight and look; it is right next to the fire wall. If in fact your O2 sensor is bad you will never get good gas mileage. And yes, the reason you don’t have a code is because of your tune. But like I said before, the EGR is probably your only real problem.

Your observations are pretty spot on. EGRs don’t open at idle, or at WOT. They do open after your engine is warm and cruising.

And as for your tire question you just posted, I have already given my pressure advice. As far as after market rim damage. Well, IMO it is a two part problem. The side wall thickness of your tire, and the design of your rims. The lower the tire side wall; the more susceptible/exposed to damage the rims are. And after market rims tend to be weaker than stockers.

Having the tire pressure in a reasonable range shouldn’t really affect rim damage. When you put on your stock tires for winter, you should note they probably say 44psi max. Just run your tire pressures some where between 30-35psi, any higher or lower you’re just asking for trouble.
 
wasnt disagreeing just asking, dont know much about it....but thanks for all the help to every one im gona clean the egr valve and see what happens....and lower the tire pressure:)
 
if you dont feel like dishing out the money for the egr you can just delete it. many have done this and reported no change in gas milage.

if that does not help i would look into an o2 sesor next.
 
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