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Motor and trans mount swapping

BillBoost37

BillBoost37

New member
Lucky, this is for you.

Crack your two front wheel lug nuts loose. Not super loose, but crack them.
Jack and support the front of the car. Put the jackstands under the subframe.
Remove driverside wheel
Remove the 4 15mm nuts holding the mount
Position your jack and a small piece of board under the transmission pan and jack about 1-2 inches until you can sneak the mount out. Put your new mount in place and lower the jack slowly to line up the studs of the mount.
Tighten the 4 15mm nuts back on
Put tire back on and tight lugs as best that you can with it off the ground.
Remove the passengerside tire.
Under the subframe locate and remove the 2 15mm nuts holding the engine mount.
Remove the splash shield in the wheel well that is blocking your view of the mount.
Remove the 2 15mm nuts on top of the mount. These are the only tough ones as they are in the bracket, so space is limited.
Put your jack and board under this end of the engine oil pan and jack like you did on the transmission.
Wiggle old mount out and put the new mount in place.
Lower and replace all the nuts.
Put shield back on
Put tire back on.
Lower the car the ground and tighten your lug nuts.
 


I will post some photos of this because it seems slightly different than the howto... uses less jacks and such it looks like.
 
Two things I learned:
1) No, that shallow/thin socket isn't shallow enough. Bring a bloody wrench.
2) No, that 4x4 isn't long or wide enough to support the car without denting the oil pan

But it's done!! :)
 
I just wanted to say thanks for the howto on this one. I was able to swap both the trans mount and the engine mount in about 3 hours. One thing I had a little trouble with was getting the engine mount to line up once the old one was out but if you get the lower right and the upper left bolts in place it helps a lot when you let the engine back down. The weight of the engine will bring it right into place.

I love this forum and all the help that is here. You guys have helped me keep my car running.

Thanks again!!
 


I did just my motor mount in about an hour with picking all the old pieces of it out of that cup it sits in.
 
alright so heres a few key things to keep in mind

-make sure your hood is open before you jack the engine up....
-if you have a stb it needs to come off...
-use a 2x8 12 inchs long or something the same size or bigger or you will dent your oil pan I used a 2x6 about 8 inches long and it pretty much raped my pan aparently their weak as ****
-I used a giant ass ratchet thing idk what its called but [its got two hooks braided cable and a arm about two feet long] to get the holes to line up took about 10 seconds I stuck one hook in a hole of the body on the underside and the other on the bracket

I learned all of the above tha hard way... so you don't have to : P
 
Hmm, I know Cole was having problems getting the studs to line up to the holes so that the motor would sit down on the mount.

I don't think Cole found it useful, but I had suggested gently lowering the motor down on top of the studs and then rock the piss out of the motor and that's how I got mine to line up.

So just something else to think about if all else fails.
 


brandonl2000 said:
Hmm, I know Cole was having problems getting the studs to line up to the holes so that the motor would sit down on the mount.

I don't think Cole found it useful, but I had suggested gently lowering the motor down on top of the studs and then rock the piss out of the motor and that's how I got mine to line up.

So just something else to think about if all else fails.
Click to expand...
I didn't have much trouble lining it up, but where I did, I found that letting it rest slightly out of place and giving it a few whacks with a rubber mallet worked just fine.
 
Just did my motor and trans mounts with zzp poly ones. I found it was helpful to use 2 jacks & wood under both the trans pan and the motor so I could lift it straight up. Lifting from just the oil pan was pushing the SLP crossover pipe back into the master cylinder. When I lowered it back down the motor had shifted forward 1/2" but once it was free of the jacks I just rocked it and it dropped in place. Despite the popular opinion I have zero vibrations at idle or acceleration. Shifts are much firmer as is the off-the-line move.
 


I got the trans side on first but just threaded the nuts on to the top of the studs so the motor had more movement on the passenger side. Barely was able to get the stock motor mount out cause the 3" crossover was out of space to move up. The ZZP poly mount is a little narrower and fell right into place. All-in-all was not a bad mod/maintenance job to do myself.
 
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