• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Massive inprovement in front end feel for 50$



REGAL GUY said:
For carvetstag go to autozone with a caliper and measure a stock one for a 2001 buick regal or buy it then return
Click to expand...

Thanks. Will do. I hated putting those things back on, but new ball joints helped a lot. I can get by for a while longer while I try to find a ball joint style bushing, but I'll have to do something before I autoX the car for sure.
 
Burbman said:
Think these could be pressed in with a Ball Joint press? I have the HF set and have pressed may BJs in/out with it.

image_23089.jpg
Click to expand...

Answer to my own question above is NO...I just ruined a brand new control arm trying to press out the rubber bushing. I got the bushing out but the control arm is bent to sh!t. Will take up to my local garage for help.
 
Last edited:
That sucks. I have a set of control arms I was going to try to be creative with installing those bushings in, I may have to rethink that.
 


I have my eye on the 12 ton press at HF that's on sale, but we are moving next month (finally bought a house) and don't need another big/heavy tool right now. Stopped by my local garage and he said he would press them in/out no problem.
 
I had no problem using a ball joint press its just a matter of finding the right size adapter to press it out in.

And actual used part of a PVC shower drain as the receiving part.
 
I thought about cutting them out as close as possible with a hole saw and then burning the rest out. (But not with a torch). Then repainting before the new bushings go back in. Has anyone done this? Any tips?
 
The rubber bushings are in a steel sleeve that gets pressed in. Once the rubber is gone, you need to deal with the sleeve. You could cut with a hacksaw and collapse it out of the hole.
 


When I did those bushings on my car, I had to heat the crap out of the bolts because they were practically welded to the bushing sleeves. Luckily I got them out because cutting the bolts and finding replacements wasn't an option. I bought new ebay control arms and had my shop up the street press out the bushings and install the new Moog bushings for me. $25 was fair for this. For the rear bushings I used the Moog blue thermoplastic 2 piece bushing. Car drives and feels more connected to the road.
 
Booba5185 said:
The lip on the bottom side, I'll go find a pic. I never had a CV boot rip, not yet at least.

Left is correct, right is incorrect. Frosty was\is fine, but mine started to pull out a bit so I flipped them both to be safe.
0bafxzo.jpg
Click to expand...
To bump an old thread from the dead...

Both bushings on L & R control arms should be pressed lip down same as the left arm on above picture, correct?
Thanks!
 
klimtrack said:
To bump an old thread from the dead...

Both bushings on L & R control arms should be pressed lip down same as the left arm on above picture, correct?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

This picture shows them both installed correctly, reading this post has some misinformation in it. They should look just like the pic, as was from the factory and as is in whatever you are replacing them in.
 


Interesting...I also called Moog tech support, they told me press them both in sleeve down. I guess I'll see down the road if there are any negative effects on either one.
 
What do you originals look like? I'm not sold it matters, but if you look at the Moog replacement control arms(RK620675,RK620676) on Rockauto they are installed same as these pics, as were my AC Delco pro series. No idea why anyone from Moog would say that.
 
Yeah, the replacement control arms I got had the bushings pressed in like on the "incorrect" pictures. Then the guy from Moog told me to press it sleeve down, really confusing.
 
If I'm guessing it probably has to do with engine torque. I would send those arms back if you can because they are incorrect, or if you are just replacing the bushings anyway install like the "correct" pic. They are that way for a reason, no idea why so many different variances of install for the same arms on here. Shouldn't have to be this confusing, all parts now a days are junk anyway, even Moog is not what they once were.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top