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Machining RM Double Roller?



Do you plan on running 130lb springs or higher?

If not, use a single chain.


And found this.

Little machining on the I.D. of the crank gear of the double roller, and some surface grinding on the oil pump cover, they work flawless. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Its the angle on the block side of the crank gear, it needs to be the same as factory.Had mine done,lines up perfect.Same distance off the block as the cam gear.
 
Its the angle on the block side of the crank gear, it needs to be the same as factory.Had mine done,lines up perfect.Same distance off the block as the cam gear.

Yea i figured it out but I should be able to just bring the dr crank gear and a stock one and any machine shop should be able to match them right?
 


That's the way I always do it. And it's a shame.. I just tossed out all the gears I had laying around, or I'd send you one.
 


I hate having to repeat myself and losing my information like the DHP forum with my 80e info...grrr

Sorry if im having you repeat yourself but after reading threw that entire thread.

So do i need to machine the chambfer and the the edge of the crank gear so it fits correctly aswell as the cam gear?

Also this is interesting... Im guessing this is bull****.

"Since I made this post, we've sold hundred of rollmasters. We have not had any fail, people are not machining them. We had custom front cover gaskets thicker than normal manufactured to give needed room and they'll be sold exclusively on the ZZP site shortly."
 
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This is the set i recieved. Does this set look as if it has been modified from the original version to you? Cus it doesnt to me.




 


Directly from there website
US versions
[TABLE="width: 874"]
[TR]
[TD]Pontiac
CS6141
CS6150
CS7000
CS7040
CS7050
CS7051[/TD]
[TD]Red Series
Red Series
Red Series
Red Series
Red Series
Gold Series[/TD]
[TD]V6
V6
V6 198-231ci
V8 403ci
V8 287-455ci
V8 287-455ci[/TD]
[TD]SR
DR
DR
DR
DR
DR[/TD]
[TD]L36, L37 with 7 keyways
L36, L37 with 7 keyways
OddFire Turbo 7 Keyways


with Nitrided Sprocket

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Ausi Versions
[TABLE="width: 991"]
[TR]
[TD]Buick
CS6141
CS6150
CS7000
CS7010
[/TD]
[TD]
Red Series
Red Series
Red Series
Red Series
[/TD]
[TD]
V6
V6
V6 198-231ci
V6 181-252ci
[/TD]
[TD]
SR
DR
DR
DR
[/TD]
[TD]
L36, L67
L36, L37
OddFire Turbo 7 Keyways
EvenFire 7 Keyways [/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
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yes that keyway chamfer should be 1/32nd past the tits of the keyways, and the recess'd pocket must be squared.
o
n the sets ive measured that recess is the correct ID at 1.810/812 but the ****ers use too large of a nose radius cutting tool so the corner must be squared or you need to spend an hour with a file radiusing the crank shoulder to match...

the cam gear is only ground and deburred. if you do not change the pocket depth, ive found the zzp/comp cams like between .022-.028 and the intense/cam motions tend to be a hair more at .024-.030 depending on yer production tollerances....even if you guess at .025 at most youll have 6 thou chain/sprocket misalignment...far better than the 14-28 thou ive seen with un modified sets...

ive been testing for years but i have two motors with dbl rollers...properly machined...with an un ground pump cover...and just 1 OEM timing cover gasket and i still have .020" pin clearance at the pump cover....with the chain slid all the way over towards it

now dont that sound like the way something should be assembled? lol

sure slapping it on works....its far from ideal but it works....i just think that a few extra dollars of machine work and a few more hours of time is well worth it with a 200$ insanely critical engine part...

regards, James
 
yes that keyway chamfer should be 1/32nd past the tits of the keyways, and the recess'd pocket must be squared.
o
n the sets ive measured that recess is the correct ID at 1.810/812 but the ****ers use too large of a nose radius cutting tool so the corner must be squared or you need to spend an hour with a file radiusing the crank shoulder to match...

the cam gear is only ground and deburred. if you do not change the pocket depth, ive found the zzp/comp cams like between .022-.028 and the intense/cam motions tend to be a hair more at .024-.030 depending on yer production tollerances....even if you guess at .025 at most youll have 6 thou chain/sprocket misalignment...far better than the 14-28 thou ive seen with un modified sets...

ive been testing for years but i have two motors with dbl rollers...properly machined...with an un ground pump cover...and just 1 OEM timing cover gasket and i still have .020" pin clearance at the pump cover....with the chain slid all the way over towards it

now dont that sound like the way something should be assembled? lol

sure slapping it on works....its far from ideal but it works....i just think that a few extra dollars of machine work and a few more hours of time is well worth it with a 200$ insanely critical engine part...

regards, James

Perfect thanks James. Im going tomarrow to a very highly rep. machine shop that builds drag cars and i printed out your instructions so he should be able to figure it out. Either way when this is done ill check alignment when i do the install.
Thanks again for all your help and hardwork.
 
yes that keyway chamfer should be 1/32nd past the tits of the keyways, and the recess'd pocket must be squared.
o
n the sets ive measured that recess is the correct ID at 1.810/812 but the ****ers use too large of a nose radius cutting tool so the corner must be squared or you need to spend an hour with a file radiusing the crank shoulder to match...

the cam gear is only ground and deburred. if you do not change the pocket depth, ive found the zzp/comp cams like between .022-.028 and the intense/cam motions tend to be a hair more at .024-.030 depending on yer production tollerances....even if you guess at .025 at most youll have 6 thou chain/sprocket misalignment...far better than the 14-28 thou ive seen with un modified sets...

ive been testing for years but i have two motors with dbl rollers...properly machined...with an un ground pump cover...and just 1 OEM timing cover gasket and i still have .020" pin clearance at the pump cover....with the chain slid all the way over towards it

now dont that sound like the way something should be assembled? lol

sure slapping it on works....its far from ideal but it works....i just think that a few extra dollars of machine work and a few more hours of time is well worth it with a 200$ insanely critical engine part...

regards, James


is this what I tell the machine shop to the get the double roller gear and crank gear machined properly?
 
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