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Luke's GTP

New fuel lines are partially installed. The easy part is done, which was installing the straight lines under the car. Only thing I had to do was flip the fuel filter bracket so it would be more rear facing. Now, the hard part is getting these pre-bent ones up through the engine cradle, around the sway bar and tie rod. The way it’s looking now, I’m gonna be removing the sway bar and since the rack is leaking like crazy, might take that out as well. It should make the job easier and an opportunity to swap that rack out. Brake lines are next so I will need room for those as well.

Scotty,
In your pic, in the post in the link below, did you loosen both the rear and front of the sub-frame to get it down that low? The rear bolts look completely detached, is that correct? Any other tips? Thanks!
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/104131-best-way-to-remove-front-sway-bar

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just the rear bolts. but you dont want to drop it that far, take the two rear bolts out to the end of their threads, and lower the jack to them. let the jack hold the weight, not the bolts. this way you dont tear the shaft apart on the rack. you'll gain 2 or 3 inches of space to sneak the lines past.
 
Thanks for the tips Scotty. I was able to lower the sub-frame no problem once I had the correct tool. In this case it was a $16 bottle jack from HF. With the sub-frame lowered, I was able to needle in the second segment of fuel lines. Those extra 2-3 inches really made it soooo much easier.

A little bit of snow:
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Fuel lines are staged and ready to be screwed together. Still need the brake lines, so keeping it loose for now:
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Close up:
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Sneaking up the fender wall… Look at that nasty, slobbering rack! It’s gotta go:
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Carpet came in today!
From RockAuto. Specs are: Graphite, cut-pile, mass-backing. No plush for me. Saved some cash.

Looks a little loose but I'll make it work:
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Close up:
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Not much padding at all man. Two big patches of jute, that's it. I'll take a picture tomorrow. Left it at work. I went on Google and found that JoAnns has a large selection of foam, comes in sheets. Gonna use that.
 


We got Michael's too up here, I'm not gay, but he's quite a dude. Wait... that can be a girls name too, huh? I make MAN stuff out of craft store goods.
 
I just did full dynamat and carpet, get a roll of jute from home depot for 20 bucks and fill all the low spots in the floor pan, some places you have build up almost 2 full inches. its probably 3 inches under the seats.



I did several layers in many places and its still probably not thick enough.

Under the seats is like (below) just to bring it back to where the factory spray foam level was.

_____Carpet replacement
_____Neoprene
_____Jute
_____Jute
_____Jute
_____Jute
_____Dynamat

Plan on the better part of a day, and hopefully an extra pair of hands to get it in.
 


Underside of the carpet looks like this. Practically ZERO padding compared to the stock carpet:

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01Blackgtp said:
_____Carpet replacement
_____Neoprene
_____Jute
_____Jute
_____Jute
_____Jute
_____Dynamat
Click to expand...

It gonna be a PITA for sure man. Thanks for the diagram, gives me a visual of what it's gonna take to get this done. Not looking forward to it, really. It's not going in for another month or so. Bought it early so I can stare at it for a while. So Home Depot has jute on the shelf, huh? I'll take a look.

LEVELX said:
Just glue in some bubble wrap sheets from Staples
to the spots without padding!!!
Click to expand...

LOL. I would be doing a lot of explaining to passengers about why the floor sounds like popcorn.

Scottydoggs said:
id try to cut the factory foam off and glue it to the new rug. that stuff super thing in some areas.
Click to expand...

It is really thick in some spots. I don't want to use the foam from the factory rug because it's old and dirty. Its been collecting dirt and moisture for some 17+ years. That being said, I find myself warming up to the idea. I think the factory foam will make for a better fit, and it might be less messing around with the jute and all. I don't like the thought of putting the carpet in the car, measuring & cutting, taking it out, back in, back out, back in, etc.. Also thinking that the mass-backing, and just the material of the carpet itself, will keep out any smell or whatever from the old foam. I don't know.... We will see.
 
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dump baking soda on the foam, beat i tin, let it sit in the sun, then beat it out, or shop vac it. will kill any smell it has.

id lay the foam in the floor, cause it fits like it should, work your new rug in place, trim it cut your holes, then you pull back one side and spray both sides with rubber cement, let dry, then roll it back down nice and slow pressing it down as you lay it down. repeat for the other side, then final trimming and moldings.
 
Racetronix re-wire came in today. That stock fuel pump relay is a weak point on my GP. It failed on me before and the wiring was adjusted somehow. It worked, but the part of the wire that's inside the engine bay, by the battery, gets pretty hot. Glad to be getting a fix for that. Also got the nylon fix-kit for the fuel lines, and the disconnect tool. I used the Sharpie idea earlier in my posts, but for a few bucks I got the right tool.

I want to run the Racetronix wires through the inside of the car, rather than the outside. It's been discussed on the forum in a few threads, but not definite answer. I want to run the wiring under the carpet and through the passenger side grommet. If I run the wires through the top of the fuel pump lid, will the lid still close? Will gas fumes be an issue? Has anyone done this? I'll find out for myself soon, but any pointers are appreciated.

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I took a big screwdriver and layed it where I was going to run the wire into the fuel pump area and smacked it with a hammer to make a little channel for the wire to go through.
 
No, its not like the tank is just open under that cover. There are bigger holes to the underside of the car in the bottom of the channel the back seat clips into.



Edit: Your seats and carpets are out, look in those holes the back seat base clips into at about a 30 degree angle, you can see the ground through there.
 
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