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LS4 Build, what to buy?

I would do a search for someone local. You might be able to get an overkill tune done, but don't expect it to be dead on out of the box.
 


The new used engine showed up yestarday, it has about 125,000 miles on it. The spare block will probably be used for a fiero swap project later on.
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I also managed to get the engine bay repainted. there was rust around the battery tray area, and my battery tray is in peices.

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Also a few other odds and ends showed up in the mail ,new wheels from american racing, new zzp downpipe, and timing chain from katech.
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The old motor mount was also shot, which explains the cluncking noise i would hear sometimes.
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Not much left now and ill be ready to start reassembly.
 

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The last two boxes finally arrived. The dod delete,and cam kit from Texas Speed. And the headers from doug thorley.
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I still need to buy a new oil pump, im open to suggestions on a replacement. now its time to get the heads cleaned and rebuilt.
 

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A new stock oil pump is just fine. High volume pumps in 90% of vehicles are useless because you aren't going to be flogging it at 5,000-6,000+ rpm all day everyday where the extra flow may be wanted for extended periods of time. Or if you were running a stroker with increased bearings clearances that require more oil flow at all times.

Just the AFM/DoD delete alone should bump oil pressure by at least 5-10psi on it's own. Being that this is a GEN 4 engine it's likely to have a oil pressure relief valve on the oil pan or somewhere on the engine block but I'm not sure what the LS4 pan looks like off the engine. If you remove that relief valve that is there for the AFM/DoD system you gain another 5-10psi at idle and it will cruise at 45-50psi instead of 35-40psi. Then it will go higher than 40-50psi at WOT to 55-65psi in most cases. These are the results all the truck guys get when they do these changes.

Here is a LS3 pan with the valve and the trucks look the same way, replace it with a plug.

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Wont be long now. I got the new cam put in this weekend. Ill be getting the heads back sometime this week and ill be ready to put the motor back in.
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I decided to paint the valve covers since i didnt have the heads back yet.
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I am also putting together a custom intake setup. Im running an ls6 intake with an ls2 throttle body, but ive heard that I might have clearance issues with the doug thorley headers. Im following a thread written by DavidGXP, But im having trouble finding a throttle body adapter. Does anybody on the Forum know someone who makes custom adapters? help with this would be greatly appreciated.
 
I got my ls2 throttle body today along with the 6 pin connector. Special thanks to 91parkave for his thread on ls1tech, it made it super easy to rewire the connector.
LS2 GTO TB . LS4 TB
PIN A ---- PIN F
PIN B ---- PIN E
PIN C ---- PIN H
PIN D ---- PIN A
PIN E ---- PIN B
PIN F ---- PIN D


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I cut my alt. bracket to make room for the ls6 intake. Still waiting to get the heads back.
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I also put the downpipe on in the meantime.
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You should do show to write-up type thread on both of those mods! I’m sure someone else out there will wanna do it at some point.
 
once I get everything together and figured out I can go over a detailed list of what I bought and what I had to do to make it work. I think i got everything figured out except the vaccum fittings on the intake and throttle body. The ls2 TB doesnt have the vaccum fitting like the ls4 TB.
 
Im 99% sure that the throttle body adapter that I bought wont work with my doug thorley crossover pipe. So I designed an adapter, and im gonna try contacting katech to see if they can help me get one made. Its just a rough draft but hopefully they can help me fill in the blanks.
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I sent an email to jason at Katech. Hopefully ill have some good news for anyone who would be interested in buying one. As far as i know there is no other options.
 
If you're interested, I could take a closer look at the design to help minimize the cost to manufacture.

Also, it's probably going to be a lot cheaper to go to a mom and pop type machine shop. A place that specializes on one-off pieces. Katech (and the like) run production. You'd be paying for your piece and all the pieces they didn't make while they were cutting yours.
 
Absolutely. I can email you a step file if you'd like. Its a very rough draft, and i wasnt even sure where to put the screw locations.
 
Can you transfer the screw locations with a center punch then hand drill & tap, or would they NEED to be put in on the machine?

You should be able to find the screw locations if you look hard enough or know where to look.

Shoot me a PM with your email and the specifics of what your wanting to do. Like, what throttle body to what intake and any other pertinent details.
 
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