• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

LS4 Build, what to buy?

Can you transfer the screw locations with a center punch then hand drill & tap, or would they NEED to be put in on the machine?

You should be able to find the screw locations if you look hard enough or know where to look.

Shoot me a PM with your email and the specifics of what your wanting to do. Like, what throttle body to what intake and any other pertinent details.

The through holes and counter bores for the ls6 intake bolts would have to be machined out, but the 4 ls2 TB taps can be done by hand after.
 


Got the heads back today. time to move things along.
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The intake arrived as well, and upon further inspection i realized the intake is ported.
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And your oil pump needs to be a standard pressure standard volume. Do not re use that DOD oil pump.

Also take the crossover heat shield off and wrap the crossover with exhaust wrap.thats all you need to do.

Also looking through this you still have the wrong valley cover installed. Needs to be non DOD valley cover with the block off orings with it.
 
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Whoa whoa man slow down the adapter will work fine with Doug thorleys and a ls6 intake

I havent been able to find a solid answer on this issue. On DavidGXP's thread he said he had to buy a custom TB adapter to be used with the headers. here is what he had for his adapter.
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And the new Valley cover was installed last night along with the heads. finally some real progress.
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can you elaborate on the issue with the stock oil pump? i though it would be fine to run with non dod internals.
 

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The dod pump which is high volume will sick the pan dry faster than oil can be returned to the pan. Seen this in a couple of builds now. What's always recommend at DOD delete is a mailing m295 oil pump. Standard pressure standard.volume
 
Also with that lift on your cam your going to want to upgrade the stock rockers to the bushing upgrade. They won't live long at that lift, I also hope you measured your pushrods correctly for that cam 7.400 (factory) will not work properly. Measure measure measure
 


I plan on putting a new trans from TEP in the car in about a year or so. And I plan on doing the bushing upgrade for the stock rockers at the same time, hopefully they hold up till then.

here is a few pics from this past weekend, I got the engine back in, and about 90% finished. I just have to put the doug thorley y pipe on and a few other odds and ends like the battery.
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More pics...
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And does anybody know where this connector plugs in... I can not seem to figure it out.
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that blue plug looks long enough to reach the rack and pinions plug. slide it past the shiftier and the rack plug should reach it. at least thats how it works on a 3800.
 
Yep, if it's anything like 3800's then that's the Magnasteer connector. That male piece you have their goes from the rack to a female connector that is right next to the shift selector arm. under the EBCM.
 


I'm gonna try to avoid wrapping the crossover pipe by using a custom TB adapter. header wraps are known to cause the metal to deteriorate over time due to the inability to dissipate heat.
 
The y pipe is on finally. it was a pain to work the trans dipstick back into place. The hood is also back on. Now Im just waiting for my ecu and tcm to get back from PCM of NC and I should be able to fire it up.
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That's a internet myth. My dts were wrapped for 3 years till I went turbo. I'm just saying wrapping the crossover will keep your trans temp down and avoid melting the harness and intake boot. But hey do you man. Why not upgrade to a 90mm tb and avoid having two adapters?
 
The mufflers arrived today, they are Borla Pro XS. I also ordered a full 3" stainless mandrel bent exhaust to put on.
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so was that plug for the rack like we thought?


things look to be getting real close to driving it.......


yep, I looked underneath the car and sure enough I found the female connector hanging down by the tire. The car will be done soon, but unfortunately its stuck in the garage until this snow dissappears.
 
I need some help. I tried to start the car, but i noticed the throttle body isnt opening. It barely moves when i step on the pedal. Could this be a wiring issue?
 
Well i tried to start the car and the MAF was unplugged. Now i have a reduced engine power light, which i believe means its in limp mode. How do take it bavk out of limp mode?
 
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