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Loc's 1998 GTP

The ABS is 90% likely a wheel hub, they're known for going bad often. check the harnesses before buying new hubs, it could be as simple as an unplugged/damaged/just plain dirty connector.
 


Thanks War. Ill check that this weekend coming up . I was just doing some research and came to the conclusion what you said lol. If I don't see anything out of the ordinary I'll order a couple hubs.

Working on a budget with the wife to get headers, CAI, U Bend Delete, 3.4" pully, Catback 180 Tstat and 104 Autolites. Hopefully get everything around Feb and install it.
 
headers come with a new downpipe, so you wont need the u-bend delete.

the t-stat has almost no difference on performance, of course there's different opinions but unless the fans are tuned to come on high at the same temp as the t-stat, and the outside temps regularly stay below zero, the engine will always hit 195.

just a few small pointers so you don't spend needlessly, I know the pain of having to budget everything. lol
 
I'd keep the stock thermostat and 104's aren't needed for that size pulley drop.

I'd go with AL 605's in the copper cores, those are 1 step colder than factory.

Then just build an intake for $50 bucks, spending 100-250 on a vendor intake gains you nothing.

Careful with the catback systems, most will make your ears bleed. The 3800 sounds terrible with aftermarket mufflers, besides maybe borla mufflers. Also the pipe sizing is plenty fine for 300 horsepower so you won't outflow it.
 
Thanks a bunch for the headsup. So just Headers, Catback, 3.4" pulley, Homemade CAI and 605's then....

I'm perfectly happy with high 13's and Im near Sea Level so my understanding with those mods I should hit it (with a tune of course).

Couple quick questions:

I was looking at the ZZP Catback system. I used to have a 95 Z28 that hit high 12's but the flowmaster with Pacesetter headers and 3" piping was OMFG loud at WOT. Sounded great at idle though lol. Is this a decent system (the ZZP). I want it SOMEWHAT quiet when cruising (say about 60mph) but sound really nice when on it. Kinda like how Magnaflows sound at times. My last car was a EX Civic with a fart can (ugh). The ZZP system I read says its decent when cruising then livens up at WOT. Which other systems besides Borla?

What are some of the better headers? Pacesetter? ZZP? OBX?
TIA
 
Pacesetters tend to leak, OBX simply don't fit without cutting and welding, ZZP are overpriced, but really nice. The other ones are SSAC, which are pretty decent, speed daddy which are Ebay clones of SSAC, then there's TOG, generally considered the best of the best. And expensive.

Honestly I wouldn't get ZZP anything, their catbacks drone like no other. Some have had luck with eBay catbacks...
 


Thanks a ton War.

I might take a chance on an Ebay Catback. My pipes are cracked a bit in the back and the driver side muffler is slightly hanging and rusted so I just really wanna replace the system from Cat....back. If anything I can always replace the mufflers themselves if I don't like em. I've heard headers are definitely worth it for the mid-upper end (where our cars pretty much fall flat).

Priority right now is my Hubs and Coupler lol but xmas and all that :(
 
i got a ebay cat back, its super quiet like stock. what i wanted. cause these cars dont sound good to me. wet fart sounds and popping backfires is not what i want.
 
My Pacesetter's were perfectly fine; and with the largest primaries you can basically get anymore (albeit finding a set of TOG X's), all you have to do is weld the crossover with the collector, and have the three bolt flange removed and welded to the collector.

Basically you end up with a front header, and a one piece x-over, RH, DP, and flange to bolt it all to the catback.

And for those ready to jump in saying you can't do it.

LOL; all you have to do is remove the dog bones and the rad fans...and it literally slides in sideways, then twist it to even it up with the head. I did this multiple times. Now if you have a couple people with you; take the hood off really quick. Then you can literally throw it in there.

Lets be real. It's a Grand Prix. No one really cares what it looks like. Even if you break the cowl and the windshield.

See here. K; thx.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/16085-Leak-Free-Pacesetter-Modification
 
blueguy said:
My Pacesetter's were perfectly fine; and with the largest primaries you can basically get anymore (albeit finding a set of TOG X's), all you have to do is weld the crossover with the collector, and have the three bolt flange removed and welded to the collector.
Click to expand...

Without having a welder or common sense, this is difficult for the average GTP owner that honestly thinks their car is "fast" (aka teenager).

But for OP, this is probably good news, and not a difficult undertaking... kinda wish I had seen that thread before now myself. lol
 
Quick Update.

Checked oil and water after a week. Absolutely fine. Pretty much where I filled them up the first time.

Getting 22.9 mpg in mixed driving with a few squirts of boost here and there to 80 :P. FAR cry form the 36mpg I used to get in a civic...but my civic wasnt near this much fun haha.

Ordered a Coupler kit today cause I know the coupler is worn. Also checked my wheels hubs and the wiring for the ABS is intact. So ordered 2 new hubs also.

Wife still stealing the car in the am........damn her.
 


Went and purchased stuff to do a Fender Air Intake.....but wife called to inform me she's doing a double shift so my car wont be back until 11pm TONIGHT....grrr

Disassembled the old motor some more (still had the Even bank side all hooked up). Found #4 to have spun a bearing too. Crank appears ok. But won't know for SURE until I put it in the machine shop. Not much more left to disassemble and I'll send it to our Machine Shop to see just how good these guys are (they do a ****TON of work with all the Farms around here). I've used them in the past without any issues whatsoever.

Got my budget figured out for my parts so pretty excited there.
 
Agreed.

Unless you know a kid that works at the machine shop and he/she needs experience that you're willing to pay for, just find a low mile engine and run it.

These engines are known for being bullet-proof, but the moment you touch the main bearing caps the magic escapes and they're doomed to fail.

It's the enigma of the 3800, they run forever until you mess with them.
 
Thanks everyone. This is why I love this place. I'll just strip down the other motor then and stockpile parts. It should be quick enough to suit me with the 3.4 and mods.
 


Yay someone listen to us!

Btw I consider 120k still low miles but would do all but the head gaskets while I had the motor out.
 
LOL!!!

I know a ton about D/B Series (and to a lesser extent A Series) Honda motors and Lt1 (93-97) along with some older Ford motors AND 444/VT365 motors. But I'm not too proud to admit I don't know much about the specifics of the 3800 and learning all I can :)
 
Ordered new FOBS as mine didn't come with any (I do have the AU0 code listed in the trunk though).

Anyone know if the MAF Harness is the same across the 3800's? ie: Camaro/Firebird/GT/GTP/Etc. Can't find a single GTP in any wrecking yards around my area but a few GT and Camaro/Firebirds). I got a bad harness (taped it up for now and seems to be working) and could probably use a New harness for the EVAP Solenoid.


Update:

Been doing a lot of research on tuning.

Really can't afford my own tuning stuff right now so been doing research on ZZP/Overkill/Intense ECU's.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Overkill. I know it's a side business to him and sometimes hard to get ahold of but form what I researched he's pretty damn good.
 
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Coupler came in today. Wasn't TOO much of a pain but had I known back when I was swapping motors compared to what I know now....I woulda definitely done it then lol.

Boost seems to come on sooner and harder. Before I would rev it quickly and get boost as I got up to 4k rpm up to 2-3 bars. Now same revving and it almost goes all the way to the left before I get to 4k rpms. Maybe it's just me but I swear the S/C is responding better. It did have about 1/2" to 3/4" play in it before.

Now if my hubs would hurry up.....
 
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