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Lets Beat a Dead horse....OIL

I don't see the one without the "L", I do see the US Spec version, which I just bought...The Saab only takes 4 quarts and has 160k miles on US spec oil. I want to get the car to 300k though.
 


Drunkie said:
I don't see the one without the "L", I do see the US Spec version, which I just bought...The Saab only takes 4 quarts and has 160k miles on US spec oil. I want to get the car to 300k though.
Click to expand...
This is the one without the "L". Amazon.com: Pennzoil Ultra Euro Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil -1 Quart, Pack of 6: Automotivebut it's also 5w-40 so maybe that's the difference? idk..

And what do you mean US spec version, this one?? Amazon.com: Pennzoil Ultra Euro "L" Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil -1 Quart, Pack of 6: Automotivebtw i can't find it anywhere else either. hmm.
 
I still see nothing stating that the pennzoil is responsible for the cleanliness of the motor. The fist pic as stated in the first post of that thread is before his 3 oil changes within 15,000 miles in 2.4 years (which is not good by any current or past standard of oil change interval).

The fact is that his oil was so warn down that it probably cleaned his motor much like water would. I'm not going against this "study" if you will completely. I would just like more accurate evidence to be presented before reccomending "cleaning properties" of any specific product to anyone.
 
Ah, I see. just not "euro" but same stuff.

Idk I'm leery of Pennzoil stuff. Dad said he'd seen a lot of engines sludged up that were using Pennzoil. Wonder how much truth there is to the kerosene thing.
 


it cleans the motor.

thats really cool.

what happens when you clean out an overly clogged motor and the "sludge" gets trapped somewhere else and causes larger issues.

Oh well.

I'm running 0w-20 platinum.
 
We have sludge issues? When I pulled apart my 150K motor there was only a very slight of buildup on the pushrods. I've always run 10W30 and this motor has overheated a few times, running on chipped piston for ver a year and a half, and has been flogged on for the past 50K.

I would think putting cleaner through a motor would be a bad thing with stuff breakin off and clogging something else.
 
I just want to note, my L36 I cammed looked better than that second pic when I tore it down after running Amsoil oil in it for a few changes. No flush, just Amsoil oil and filter
 


You can do what you want, and most people will. But I have been inside quite a few engines in my short life. You can definitely tell the difference between the ones that had the oil changed and the ones that didnt. And that difference is sludge. Now, I have never been inside a saab engine or know much about the sludge issues. But typically if you run the correct grade oil, don't overheat the engine, and change it at the appropriate schedule, you won't have sludge issues with today's regular oils.

But lets take a look at the oil you are suggesting. As mentioned in the thread, it basically contains kerosene. But it is incorporated into the oil during manufacturing to not thin down the oil and keep the correct oil weight. But it is still kero and will clean like kero. But even at 5%, which is on the low side, that is over 1.5 ounces per quart of kerosene. So basically 2 full cups of kerosene are in with your oil. Hell yeah that will clean things out.

But as mentioned, if you use this kind of cleaning power on a highly sludge up engine, you may run into problems down the road with that kind of sludge and crap now floating around in your oil, clogging up your oil sump screen, or even getting sucked through the screen, through the clogged oil filter which is just not bypassing oil and not filtering it, and running it thorough your bearings.

If it were me, I would just make sure to use a good quality oil, use the correct grade, make sure not to run the car hot, and change the oil as specified. All oils are made with some additives to help prevent sludge and even with a highly sludged up engine, these will slowly break down the buildup and get rid of it without washing the entire engine down with kerosene and possibly clogging things up or causing bearing damage down the road. I wouldn't take that chance.
 
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Years ago i had old mechanic tell me use 1 quart of kerocene in the car and let it idle for twenty minutes before changing the oil. You drained the oil completely, overnite if possilbe.
It works great in cleaning the sludge oil. Later I weht to a synthetic. It drops the engine temperature 10 degrees F.I change every 3 thousand miles. Works.
I like the Zmax as an oil additive, Lucas for an transmission additive. Works. Don't do it if it doesn't work for you.
 
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