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Lets Beat a Dead horse....OIL



Oil analysis. Bobistheoilguy.com. 15 years experience of cars and knowing what they run and how they look when broken down. Not trying to have a pissing contest but hands down synthetic will out perform any dino oil and keep the engine internals cleanest. Plus you make your money back when you don't have to change the oil as often.

I wait for castrol edge titanium to go on sale for 34.99 with KN filter at advance. I'll buy 2-3 at a time ;)
 
who cares if the inside of the motor is clean? so long as the oil isnt gunking up and keeping everything lubed it is doing what it is meant to do.

and i dont do long oil intervals with any oil so spending extra money so i can go 5-10k miles on an oil change won't help me. regardless of the oil i buy i will change it at 3k miles because that's what i do.
 
TPStatic said:
Years ago i had old mechanic tell me use 1 quart of kerocene in the car and let it idle for twenty minutes before changing the oil. You drained the oil completely, overnite if possilbe.
It works great in cleaning the sludge oil. Later I weht to a synthetic. It drops the engine temperature 10 degrees F.I change every 3 thousand miles. Works.
I like the Zmax as an oil additive, Lucas for an transmission additive. Works. Don't do it if it doesn't work for you.
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So is this.

Engine oil can't lower the coolant temperature of your motor.

I say this because I have yet to see a W body with oil temp monitoring.

Furthermore, with an adequate cooling system, the oil should never be far from 10-15* F above the coolant temps.
 
Some people do care. I'm one of them. Depends on whats best for you. To me, that's whats best.
Can you drive fine on dino? Sure
But when it breaks down from hard runs/temps, it leaves deposits. That's what your seeing when everything looks "brown".
 


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Zef_66 said:
You can do what you want, and most people will. But I have been inside quite a few engines in my short life. You can definitely tell the difference between the ones that had the oil changed and the ones that didnt. And that difference is sludge. Now, I have never been inside a saab engine or know much about the sludge issues. But typically if you run the correct grade oil, don't overheat the engine, and change it at the appropriate schedule, you won't have sludge issues with today's regular oils.

But lets take a look at the oil you are suggesting. As mentioned in the thread, it basically contains kerosene. But it is incorporated into the oil during manufacturing to not thin down the oil and keep the correct oil weight. But it is still kero and will clean like kero. But even at 5%, which is on the low side, that is over 1.5 ounces per quart of kerosene. So basically 2 full cups of kerosene are in with your oil. Hell yeah that will clean things out.

But as mentioned, if you use this kind of cleaning power on a highly sludge up engine, you may run into problems down the road with that kind of sludge and crap now floating around in your oil, clogging up your oil sump screen, or even getting sucked through the screen, through the clogged oil filter which is just not bypassing oil and not filtering it, and running it thorough your bearings.

If it were me, I would just make sure to use a good quality oil, use the correct grade, make sure not to run the car hot, and change the oil as specified. All oils are made with some additives to help prevent sludge and even with a highly sludged up engine, these will slowly break down the buildup and get rid of it without washing the entire engine down with kerosene and possibly clogging things up or causing bearing damage down the road. I wouldn't take that chance.
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Saab motors (B235e specifically) have the sludging issue even with proper oil changes and what not. There were countless PCV updates to the engine to help eliminate the problem, it seems at the current PCV fix #6 plus synthetic oil every 4-5k miles (I do 4k intervals) and either MANN or OEM filters. Sludging is not an issue, but you should drop the pan or pull the valve cover once every 2 years just to be sure (or sooner if you are having symptoms of a problem). This did clean out the engine real nice and at this point in time, my engine is 100% sludge free as the Pan has been dropped and everything was cleaned not that long ago, this would just be another step to help prevent the inevitable IMO.

I only brought it here because I thought it was interesting to see, our engines are stout and probably don't need anything like this but hey its something new I thought we could all take a gander at. I may give this a try in my 3800 next oil change, what can it honestly hurt? Honestly you all can run what you feel is best, I in no way shape or form push people to run what I think they should run. Oil is oil and as long as your lubricate well you will be fine.
 
Bio248 said:
dont tell people to run synthetic. in most cases it is a waste of money.

i bet my cheap, store brand, dino oil runs just as good as your fully synthetic car does. you just burn more cash in the process.
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Synthetic is required on some of the new vehicles that are coming out, especially alot of the German Euro cars...just an FYI
 
crazyguy03 said:
Some people do care. I'm one of them. Depends on whats best for you. To me, that's whats best.
Can you drive fine on dino? Sure
But when it breaks down from hard runs/temps, it leaves deposits. That's what your seeing when everything looks "brown".
Click to expand...

You and I sir...are on the same wavelength. Kudos
 
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