• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

L36/L67 Bonneville Build (H-Body) (These Forums are better than the Bonneville Forum)

Drove 300 miles and Picked this up Yesterday.

Came out of a 2001 Buick Regal GS 85k miles

It has different brackets tho and I could use some info on converting the brackets to be H-Body Friendly haha..


Motor_zps1195835e.jpg


Motornocover1_zps845d7408.jpg


Motornocover2_zpse4d085c0.jpg


Motornocover3_zpsd79644e5.jpg
 


when the old motor is out just swap your mounts and what ever else to the regal engine.

nice low miles engine you found there.
 
Scottydoggs said:
when the old motor is out just swap your mounts and what ever else to the regal engine.

nice low miles engine you found there.
Click to expand...

For the Tensioner and Motor Mount that were on the N/A Motor may work but the Rear Alternator Bracket Doesnt seam like it will clear the Supercharged Fuel Rail?
 
well being you should be doing a lim job on the regal engine before it goes in. its easier that way, you can do some test fits, if need be buy new metal elbows and use your alt bracket and alt, as it maybe different.

the blocks are the same, any thing you want or need to swap over will just swap over.
 


Scottydoggs said:
well being you should be doing a lim job on the regal engine before it goes in. its easier that way, you can do some test fits, if need be buy new metal elbows and use your alt bracket and alt, as it maybe different.

the blocks are the same, any thing you want or need to swap over will just swap over.
Click to expand...

The Rear Bracket for the alternator bolts to another bracket that bolts to the head and the holes are not in the heads on the Regal motor. Maybe they used and alternate rear bracket in 96 on the H-body for the supercharged motor. Pictures tomorrow
 
Hiya friend...

Swap your alternator
Alt/tensioner bracket
rear exhaust manifold
Remove the temp sensor and remove the driversside engine mount bracket, then replace temp sensor (cause that bracket is junk..lol)
Put your bracket and three studs on in front of the water pump, then realize that the SC bracket is different than the NA IIRC, so source one at a JY
You can run that ICM bracket, or swap to the bonneville one (I think Swiggles had one for sale)
Swap oil filter adapters
Which trans are you running? Your 4T60e IIRC was a 245mm TC pattern. I"m not 100% though (almost..cause I had to egg the holes on Rachael's new flex to make it work in a 96). Well worth double checking before you drop it in.

Everything else should be fine, but ask if you see something out of whack

I agree on doing the LIM while you are sitting there. Then mod it up like I suggest in this thread (no need for post charge temp sensor though)
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/46931-How-to-Mod-a-LIM?highlight=drill+easy
 


I am thinking Cam, Headers (maybe PLOG?), Full size intercooler, and a 3.0-3.25" pulley. and trans work. now the question is What Cam Intercooler and Headers should I buy? haha
 
The nice thing about that year bonneville is ... you can fit anything under the hood. I had the full WBS older core.. put a stouffers french bread pizza (same thickness as core) on SC and closed the hood. I ate a perfectly fine pizza while smiling that it would fit. I've heard a lot of good things about sseilmnop's IC"s and how can you not like that he has SSEi in his SN?

Downpipe, skip the plog and DP, go headers. You can get under the car..lift them up and put bolts in, there's no room issues or worries like the other body styles. Had to redo the flex in the SLP's I had at one point. Undid the crossover clamp to rear, unbolted them and slid them right out in 15 min or less. After that..I did a 3" HF cat, no res, 3" pipe to the curve in the exhaust and reduced to the 2.5" stock pipe there. Kept the stock muffler and it didn't sound like a raspy mess.

Cam and all that is up to you and your goals. If you'd like I could give you a perfect receipe for breakage!
 


Does anyone know where I can find a set of Speed Daddy headers? Ebay does not seam to have them? or maybe Im just blind.

Also What Cam would you recommend for stock heads? and what ratio Rockers? 1.8? 1.9? what brand? and with that combo what pulley size do you recommend? and would you suggest an intercooler? if so which one and maybe Links?

Thanks in advance Everyone!

Cheers
 
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/67580-Safely-Modding-Your-3800! read this, then print it out and read it on the crapper. over and over again.

you'll need a few different pulleys cause every car is different. you only pulley down to the point where you can no longer tune the kr out. so you start big and work your way to smaller. ic is good, but e85 does the same thing and maybe more in the long run if you have corn near by.

most cams you would re use the stock rockers.

this member makes ic cores. you need to source the pumps hoses and all ( its all there in black and white) but this ic has gotten good reviews by many members here. http://www.grandprixforums.net/thre...n-3-Gen-5-L67-L32-Eaton-M90-SuperCharger-3800
 
If you are looking to stay SC, then.. yes to what Scott said. If you put in an XP or S1X cam (personally I like the S1 idle a little better, but they are super close to each other) you would basically have maxed out stock heads. As mentioned...stock rockers save cash and work just fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top