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J-Liss Soon to be self tuned-corn fed stock w-body.

one of the con's is anything past exhaust/intake + boost, you need fuel internals, Fuel pressure must regulate above 1500 psi.


yea let me know if you ever consider getting one.
 


JLiss said:
one of the con's is anything past exhaust/intake + boost, you need fuel internals, Fuel pressure must regulate above 1500 psi.


yea let me know if you ever consider getting one.
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I started considering it ever since a contractor I worked with at one of the condominiums this summer, showed up with one and I heard the exhaust note. I shat myself
 
LOL, yea man, puts a smile on my face everytime. i need to get the GTP washed up and take some pics and just edit them lol
 
yea coming from my platform, there is no forum like it, we can swear, say ANYTHING you want. you can groan people and like them, here you can like them but its a diff kind of like.


i meant to ask you guys, how is the timing chain on these cars??? should i check it out?
 
JLiss said:
yea coming from my platform, there is no forum like it, we can swear, say ANYTHING you want. you can groan people and like them, here you can like them but its a diff kind of like.


i meant to ask you guys, how is the timing chain on these cars??? should i check it out?
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Some people with heavier mods go double chain. I don't think it's too bad though. I'll wait for someone with a more expert opinion to drop their .02
 


I have a Rollmaster double roller chain.
I would advise using a double roller chain with any larger cam profile.

Here is a quote from my mentor/partner, before he assisted with my build.

"take crank gear to machine shop and have em machine the backside 45* chambfer till it's 1/32nd past the tits of the keyway's, crocus cloth the hell outta the bore ID for easier install, slide it onto the crank using the oem crank sproket to drive it on, be carefull with the keyway, i leave the OEM crank sprocket on and use another on top of that (youll have 3 sprockets on) and tq the crank bolt tight to ensure the crank gear is fully against the crank shoulder
i have a rig for holding the cam timing gear still to do this, but youll crocus cloth the **** outta the cam gear bore so it'll go one easier, install the cam gear without the chain and Tq the cam bolt, then using the block face as a register point measure the block to chain tooth face distance of both the crank and cam gears while prying the crank/cam through endplay to find the endplay min/max distance. add half the endplay to the min distance of both then subtract, thats the distance the cam gear is sticking out farther than the crank gear making them out of alignment.
pull off cam gear and drop off to have it ground down -block/stone the front face of the cam gear to ensure the face sits completly flat on the magnetic chuck...the alignment dot typically has a raised edge from the machining process.

ive had to machine off between .022 and .030 off the back of the cam gear on all 5 sets ive worked on to bring em into dead alignment with both the crank and the cam in the middle of their endplay ranges. then the chain will be straight and both rows of the chain will have load on it as opposed to most of the load being on the outter/inner chain row on the crank/cam sprokets resectively. you dont need a ground oil pump cover only two paper GM front cover gaskets to have more than enough chain to pump clearance"
 
Nice post, you should get that stickied!

But before i get into cam's im more asking for stock bolt ons + aggressive tune, + boost.

even before all that, lets say i kept it stock, any chain failures been logged past a certain mileage or so?

Like on the speed 3's we keep a eye on it after like 50-60k, our timing chain can get slack and need replacing. so i guess what im asking, on the 3800 series can i go to 200K without touching the timing chain, with bolt ons and tune.
 
You might be able to without changing the chain, but I'm almost definite you will need to replace the plastic tensioner unit used with the stock single chain around ~100k miles.
While you are there, you may as well change the chain and camshaft anyway.
GM 3.8L's are cheap, if you want to see how long the chain will last go ahead and then get another engine from the junkyard.

On a side note, my buddy ran a VS "valvetrain safe" cam on his 2004 S/C L26 with a new factory chain/tensioner.
His chain snapped on the highway while he was cruising 90 MPH @ ~2700 RPM.
This is why I always recommend a double roller when changing cam profile.
 
Damn that's a deal, even with the work it needs. Where in Aurora are you? I work in Aurora near Indian Trail and Eola.
 


AjL227 said:
You might be able to without changing the chain, but I'm almost definite you will need to replace the plastic tensioner unit used with the stock single chain around ~100k miles.
While you are there, you may as well change the chain and camshaft anyway.
GM 3.8L's are cheap, if you want to see how long the chain will last go ahead and then get another engine from the junkyard.

On a side note, my buddy ran a VS "valvetrain safe" cam on his 2004 S/C L26 with a new factory chain/tensioner.
His chain snapped on the highway while he was cruising 90 MPH @ ~2700 RPM.
This is why I always recommend a double roller when changing cam profile.
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Oooo wow that's crazy. Well then maybe later on in the year ill go ahead and safe proof it.

Yo I live in plano now but I'm always in aurora. Let me know if you want to meet up. I'm on the east side of aurora. Kane'loucks. And liberty.

So someone told me that people want to know the story about how I got the car because they don't believe since I haven't posted pics and too good to be true kinda thing. Well the guy whole sold me the car was my best friend. He had it. His dad didn't want him buying used but he did it cause his son wanted it. So he knew nothing about cars or what to check for, and the car was in terrible condition besides the inside and outside of the car. Anyways. 5k miles later both front and back suspension went out. Oil gasket started leaking on driveway. His dad said he couldn't keep the car in driveway so he made him park like 2 blocks away lol. Then he got like 4 check engne lights. And then the motor started shaking it needed brakes. So my friend said screw this car I want new. And grabbed a cobalt ss. And was embarrassed to try and trade it in and left it in his dads warehouse where it sat for 1.5 years. Soooo I needed another car and randomly asked him what he did with the c,ar he said its sitting in storage and my dad wants it out. I said what's wrong with it. He told me. I was like oo lots of labor but fairly easy. Him and his dad are not mechanically inclinded so he said let's call the junk yard and see what they'll give me...we did they said 450. I said ill g8I've you 5. He said deal. This is where we are at now. About 800 dollars into the car with purchase its about to be tip top shape.
 
What do you guys reccomend on theb plugs? I got tr6's which I beliebe is going to be too cold for stock. But what does this car like its spark to be @?
 


One more question guys...I thought stock 0pulley is 3.5? I just installed blower moto and blower motor resisto r and I went to start taking apart s/c and it says 3.4 on the pulley
 
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