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Ok finally today my carMD came and I used it, and it said I still have a P0336 code and a P0141 code. I had the ckp sensor removed again but by a different mechanic and took it back to autozone for anew one. He put it in and the car starts... but you have to have to disconnect the battery after driving or it won't start again until unhooked. Could the P0336 code still be pending because either the connector is bad or cause ICM needs to be replaced. I looked up the P0141 code and it said that was a O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 2). What do I have to do to get these problems fixed? Also when I took the car to autozone they only found the P0336 code and not the P0141 code... why is that?
 




hes talking about what the codes are for...by you googling the code, you learn what it means and have a idea where to look to fix each code.

its just part of the learning curve lol
 
Pat Grindharderthenyou said:
I have been posting engine codes. If you choose not to read and just glance over the posts. You would see that I have meantion them before. They are P0141 & P0336.
Click to expand...
I've been reading since your first post on this thread a month ago. I'm just trying to help but will stop now if you don't want it.
 
I have been posting codes, googling codes, researching what they mean and how to fix the problem. I have even bought the Haynes repair manual to understand what exactly is going on or not going on. I have taken in everybody's information and help, and put it to good use. I'm not saying that I didn't want the help. Maybe it's me or maybe no one's understanding what i'm writing... So let me try to start this over and see if the problem can be fixed.

First off I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix se, with a 3.1 liter 3100 engine. What the problem is... Is that the car is having a hard time starting or sometimes doesn't even start at all. The service engine light is on and it had three different engine codes. The three codes were P0336, P0327, P0141. When doing the research the P0336 code was for the CKP sensor, and it says its the crankshaft position sensor circuit, range or performance problem. The P0327 code was for the knock sensor and it says knock sensor curcuit, low input. The P0141 code is for the O2 sensor and it says O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 2).

Now I bought the knock sensor, there's two ckp sensors in the 3100 engine. I bought those two and have to buy the O2 sensor. I had the knock and two ckp sensors replaced. Now the P0327 code is gone... but the P0336 code the ckp sensor is still there. If it's been replaced already why is it still stored in the computer brain? Someone mention before about doing a case learn. The code reader that he has does not have a learning feature on it. To do the case learn.
 
You might have to have a dealer do a case learn. Not sure with the 3100. The case learn tells the computer when to fire circ
 


I have a question about how to clean fuel injectors? I took out my fuel rail to check the fuel injectors, and they are really dirty. I have been trying to find how to clean them on the internet. But everything that pops up is talking about using a kit to clean them. I seen a video on youtube before but I can't seem to find it again. I know he used pieces of hose and I think some carb cleaner, I think he just put the pieces of hose on the ends of the fuel injectors, and poured some carb cleaner in and let them sit. If i'm wrong or missing something please let me know.
 
If u wanted to u could mail them off to Mr injector. Makes then as good as new. New o rings new filter and does a sonic cleaning thing

Sent from my pager using Morse code. ... .. ... ....
 


On this engine they have 2 different reference signals. On being 24x and 18x one on the frint of the crank and one on the backside of the block when it's a circuit code most likely there is a wireing problem somewhere.. There is a 2 wire harness that runs from ignition control module to the crank sensor on the back of the block. A lot of times people do intake gaskets and don't secure that wire back and it hits the exhaust manifold and shorts and melts this happens a lot! I would check there
 
sounds like your MAF is bad man, did you disconnect the MAF completely and try and start it?

The rpm going crazy says a vacume leak as well, if its big enough at a vital point like before the TB this will cause issues.

Here is a trick, you can make your own vacume leak tester. VWVortex.com - DIY: Boost Leak Tester i also make them myself if ppl are lazy


now, aanother trick you can do, thats free but require a friend is take off your intake to the throttle body off, have someone try and start the car, as SOON as it starts place your hand over the throttle body and choke the air into the engine, the engine will slowly die, and if you here a HISSING sound you have a leak, repeat until you find it with soapy water spray it where you think it is and look for air bubbles.
 
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