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I think I have a cam? Help. Lol

Get a degree wheel and a dial indicator and follow the process for "degreeing" a camshaft, you can do this with the engine in the car and will tell you the exact lift and duration of the camshaft.
 


You do not need to pull the motor to take the cam out. In fact if you pull the harmonic balencer, power steering pump, and side cover off you are at the cam. To take the cam out you remove the tensioner and chain and then drop the subframe a foot or so. Cam slides right out. Dial on the pushrod would be easier though.

Dont trust vaccum pressure. Different cars and different idle speeds will cause wildly different readings.

Same goes for boost level unless you take altitude into effect. I lose 4psi just driving across my state.
 
If it was me I would pull the timing cover off and pull the dam out to figure out exactly what you have and then take the time out to checking the timing chain/dampener etc
 


No its not a terrible answer, so far the only thing he said hinting at a cam was a miss. Supposedly theres supposed to b a big jump in power with a cam in these cars. All he would have to do is test drive one at a car lot to compare it. Regardless of anyones idea of power they would notice a difference
REDCOMPG said:
That's a terrible answer. What's fast to one guy may not really be fast in reality.
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13.5 at 105mph on all season no traction radials. 2.2 60' time. Daily driver with safe tune.

Currently 207,000 on body.
 
Hard to say. It may not be a huge cam so it may be hard to notice.. Not to mention it's probably on a stock pulley so it might be hard to notice a different. Regardless instead of guessing or assuming I would dive right in and pull the cover and cam and make sure.
 
While you don't have to pull the motor to pull the cam (installed mine with the motor still in the car) It's almost easier to just pull the motor and the rear cover. Truly the easiest method would be to measure the lift with a dial indicator to be 100% certain.

As far as boost, with headers/3.8 pulley, cam I was making 7PSI.

As far as vacuum, stock idle with my cam, I ran 18-19 in-hg. Now with my IC and idle bumped up I run 19-20in-hg.

You really need a mechanical means of verifying.
 



this is a short clip of a cold start, some of you guys might be able to tell by listening to it i would think? check it out and let me know the rough idle starts right about halfway through the video
 
Almost sounds like its starving for fuel, run a fuel pressure test with it at op temp. 41-7psi for na, 48-51 for sc. I like your tips btw :)
 
it does sound like it with the chop to it but ive had dirty maf's and skewed o2's cause idle issues.

spend 30$ at harbor freight for a dial indicator and pull a valvecover...only way to know for sure except engine teardown...
 
Thanks. Those are 3.5 inch dual tips from eBay lol. And yeah I remember a mechanic a while back telling me that I had a bad injector but then tried to charge me like $$1200 bucks to get a set of stock injectors and labor. I literally laughed and asked for my keys back lol. Think a sticking injector could cause that? It's weird


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"tuning reasons" would be the last concern of what cam it is... There is basically no cam out there that "tunes" any different from stock aside from cams with extreme overlap... which are obvious.
 
They look kinda like the grand prix special edition tips i have on my monte :)
Ryan99639 said:
Thanks. Those are 3.5 inch dual tips from eBay lol. And yeah I remember a mechanic a while back telling me that I had a bad injector but then tried to charge me like $$1200 bucks to get a set of stock injectors and labor. I literally laughed and asked for my keys back lol. Think a sticking injector could cause that? It's weird


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