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I know my motor is toasted (update (pics))

I would NOT rebuild the motor... LOL Unless you have machine shops local to you that aren't as proud as the ones here.. OMG... I finally got my phone call regarding my build from the machine shop.. I almost dropped the phone.. I ran down there and told them NO and WTH are you doing? Well they quoted me a complete build and it was a tad over $3,000. and a standard build was a lil under $2000.. I still said no, just do my heads...

Start to finish, valve job, new seals, clean, blah blah (plus they cleaned my L67 Intake and block and magnafluxed all the parts) I will get out of there for $335.

Option B for me since mine had to be bored, I found a low mileage L26 out of a 2007 model Buick that I managed to get for $500. I'll build it to as I planned instead of my L36 that I pulled from the car.
 


Yeahhh deff not spending 3k lol. But honestly if I could get the block prepped for a rebuild...rebuild it myself...then have them balance the rotating assembly, that would be what I would Do...Option B for me is also a low mileage motor...I can get one for $400
 
I got to looking at the estimate they gave me again... Instead of buying one rod to replace the one that broke, they were quoting me 6 Eagle H beam rods.... :-/ Really..... I was tired of dealing with the shop. They had my motor for over 3 weeks and finally called me. But that's my two cents... you can look at the thread "Rebirth of my Grand Prix" or some lame title like that, I just posted pics of the L26 I got. The yard had 7 more. He knocked off a lil over $100 for me because he gripped and gripped about the 3800's saying he can't sale them because they are such good motors.. They range in mileage from 3,600 to I believe the highest mileage one he had was 52K. Come on down, we'll have lunch :-D
 
lmao i'll leave now...be down there by sunday lol jk. But i'll give that thread a look. I just want to do this motor right so I don't have to do it all over again lol
 
Oh believe me, I understand!!! I was very uneasy about using the stock L36 rods with a top swap and XP cam considering I have already broken two rods. First rod broke because water from a bad UIM doesn't compress well. Rod two broke for, well only god knows that one because i sure as heck don't. I was going to buy the L26 rods to put in my motor BUT I didn't want to spend the extra $350 (yeah I know spend what I have and didn't want to buy them...)... The L26 I believe will be a much better platform to build and it's already broken in!! :D
 
I was quoted around 6-800 Dollars for just the machining on the block, heads, and rods....I found a Motor for $400 with 133k on It...debating on which way i should go now...
 


Found a guy who estimated me $850 for a rebuild so I may go that route. Found a s2 for $500 w 122k as my second option.
 
From a quick search I found this.. I'm not sure where in MI you are, but LKQ delivers to shops reasonable.. and there were 2+ pages of L26 motors for $400 - $600 range with under 100K miles. This is if you want to go with a L26, you might not want to. I just went that route due to the rods being better quality. Hope it helps man!!!

MIMotor.jpg

MImotor2.jpg

MImotor3.jpg
 


From a quick search I found this.. I'm not sure where in MI you are, but LKQ delivers to shops reasonable.. and there were 2+ pages of L26 motors for $400 - $600 range with under 100K miles. This is if you want to go with a L26, you might not want to. I just went that route due to the rods being better quality. Hope it helps man!!!

L26 rods are the absolute worst 3800 rods you can get by a large margin.
 
L26 rods are the absolute worst 3800 rods you can get by a large margin.

That's the first I've heard of this... Seems like everywhere I have read and who I've talked to say the PM rods are better quality and after halfway through 05 (or 04) all Series III motors had them... ALSO, I have snapped not one, but two L36 rods. If I blow the L26 up then I guess I'll go with the H beam...
 


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