• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

How to test an Air conditioning system

holorinhal

New member
About a year and a half ago my wife bought a new ac compressor and had it installed by a shop, without talking to me first. The air only lasted about 6 months and needed to be recharged again. After the recharge it did not blow cold, rather only cool air and only lasted about two weeks. I am pretty sure they only replaced the compressor and do not think they evacuated or did a vacuum(not sure if the two are different?).I am getting ready to put in another compressor, dryer and orifice tube.
Question is, is there any way to test the existing system, just incase the compressor is still good, to see what might actually be wrong, before i install a new compressor?
Should you have to replace the seals on a new compressor, before install?
How do you do an evacuation of the system?
Can I use a hand vac pump, like the myti vac pump, or does it have to be electric?
Are there any tech wright up on an Ac system?
Thanks for any help.....
 


IIRC the pump has to be electric to draw the system down to 30Hg. Once there see if it holds that for 1 hour. If it does, then recharge and call it done. It's what I've always done and no issues so far.

If you have a leaking seal you will know it since the system will not hold vacuum. New seals should come with a new compressor. You could dye test the system to see if there are any leaks prior to changing the compressor again.
 
It is 65 degrees out and I just checked the pressure or charge level, and it reads at 35psi on a recharge bottle gauge, but the compressor does not engage. I do not know how accurate those gauges are and I am going to go buy a vacuum pump and gauge set. what is the proper psi for proper charge? Is there a way to test the compressor itself?
 
ok sorry but I let the car get to operating temp and the compressor is kicking on. I checked the pressure and it was fluctuating between 28- 32 or so. Does the car have to be running and the ac on, to properly check the charge level? I am just trying to verify that the compressor is definitely bad before I spend the money for a new one. I blows air, just not cold. The compressor does not make any abnormal noises.
 
The recharge gauge said that it was in the charged range. The compressor kicks on, but continuously runs. I ran it for a half hour and it never kicked off. I put some dye in the system, but could not find any sign of the dye for a leak. I bought a set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump, today. Tomorrow I will test the pressures properly.I have all the parts to replace the compressor, dryer, and orifice. just want to make sure it really needs it.
 


The bottle gauge is only the low side. There are two sides to each story and in this case.. an AC system as well. Knowing what both sides read, with a true gauge setup can be key in diagnosing a system.

I have seen issues where the high and low sides are equal. I'm not an AC tech, but typically that means the compressor is bad. When I go into an AC system like you are mentioning and it isn't holding a charge. Automatically change all your seals.

In most of our cars we have seals at the following locations:
Orifice tube - inline
Hoses to firewall
Hoses to condensor
Hoses to accumulator
Hoses to compressor

Then follow the advice others have given. If you are looking to do this yourself, I have found a reasonably priced pump and gauge set at Harbor Freight.
 
Thanks Bill. Is there a seal kit that includes every thing? The compressor only came with two seal that are a metal ring with a rubber center.
That is the manifold gauge set and vac pump i bought. I got the gauge set home and one of the fittings was not threaded, so i have to go back and exchange it today.
 
ok here is the deal. I did a diagnostic read on the system and I do not have a clue what any of it means. So here is what the readings were, maybe some one can clue me in. These readings were taken with the old compressor, before any work was done. It was 80* out side. With the engine off, low side pressure was 50 psi and the high side 50psi. With the engine running, the ac on max and fan on low, the low side pressure was 80 psi and the high was 85psi. With the engine running and ac off, the pressures were low side 55psi and high side 55 psi. When the ac was on and engine running, the compressor did kick on, but ran continuous with out cycling. The ac did not blow cold at all, only luke warm air.
 


You have something plugged up on the low side It seems to me
Well last night I did the work on the ac system. I replaced the orifice tube, what a pain in the ass that was, the dryer and compressor and the seals. I evacuated the system with a vac pump for 45 minutes. I then let it sit for an hour and checked it and the gauges did not move. It was late, so I decided to just leave the vacuum drawn over night. When I checked it this morning, the gauges still haven't moved. I charged the system with 1.88 lbs +/- an ounce of refrigerant. As soon as the refrigerant started drawing in, the compressor kicked on. I used 3 12oz cans and only put in 2/3's of the 3rd can. That was as close as I could get. It was 87* outside. With a thermometer in the center vent, ac on max and fan on low, the air was blowing cold and the thermometer dropped to 39/40 degrees. The compressor still runs continuous, without cycling, but now blows cold air. now I have a couple of questions. With the fan on higher speeds, the thermometer reads slightly warmer, than on low. Is this normal? The compressor runs continuous. Shouldn't it be cycling on and off? Does the air blow colder or warmer, depending on the temtrature outside? I live in the desert and it will get into the triple digits. Below is a pic of the gauges with the engine running , ac on max and fan on low and manifold gauges in diagnostic mode. Can any one tell me if every thing looks ok?
attachment.php
I think I may still have a problem. When I shut off the engine, I hear a hissing that is coming from the high side port. I last only a few seconds and quits. If I put my thumb over the port, I can feel pressure coming out. last only a few seconds and quits?
 
Last edited:


Well, the system was completly empty. The specs call for 1.88 lbs which is a little less than three 12oz cans of refrigerant and that is what i put in. Maybe its posible that i put a little too much oil in The system. When i took the old compressor and dryer of, there was not a drop of oil in either one. I could find very little info on the amount of oil for this specific system for a 99 GP.
I guess i will take it and have some recovered from the system?
 
Back
Top