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How-to change lower control arms

tdm571 said:
I was able to cut thru the bolt. I only dulled two blades. The size of the bolt is M14-2.00 90mm. I used a metric 10.9 grade bolt which is the equivalent of a grade 8. I also decided to upgrade the sway bar while I was at it. There's a huge difference in the tightness of the steering. Glad I did it.
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I got lucky with the PB Blaster I guess, the torx bolts came out without too much trouble. I did pick up new bolts before hand though but had trouble finding metric bolts in my area. Ended up using a 9/16" x 4" #8 bolts to replace the torx bolt. Make sure you get some good washers too so the hex head doesn't cut into the aluminum sub-frame.
 


dsmuts said:
8. Put new lca in place and put the new nut that comes with it on the ball joint.
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Thanks for the write-up. Just wondering if there is any reason to not re-use your factory nuts if they are in good condition? I noticed the OEM nuts are flanged, and the Dorman ones are not.
 


Yes, was trying to say "never mind", but the server was too busy to log in. I see this isn't critical in this situation. Found out this by looking up replacing a Focus' LCA. Their balljoint stud is held in by clamping friction (no nut), although the video wasn't TTYing that bolt (lol). Thanks.
 
bumpin this to say thanks for the write up. i sometimes wonder how much time i would have saved 20-30 years ago if i had the net back then.:th_laugh-lol3:
one note- the 21mm wrench makes the job a lot easier. my set skipped 21 but i managed with a cresent but would have been a lot easier with that.
another note:
make sure ya have all the tools BEFORE starting the job.:th_winking:
 


Helped to know the sizes. Went quicker that way.

If any of these are TTY bolts, I'd be thoroughly flabbergasted.
 
Since it was the first I heard of it (especially in suspension parts (Ford)), I was a bit taken. Since, considering clamping force and vibration, I thought it was critical. Now, I think it is important, but not critical, especially considering material inconsistency and thread-hangup.

After doing one, I think I measured the torque afterwards; I can't clearly remember what happened, but I think it was a few pounds past the torque specification. I don't know why the straight torque (with tolerance) isn't sufficient in these applications -- so, that is my personal summation. Plus, I don't think a gauge is quite necessary - just observation of the angle turned-through.
 
Shouldn't I jack up the lower control arm so the arm is close to where the arm sits when the car is sitting on the ground, and then tighten my control arm bushings?
 
That's the proper way to do it, yes.

I like to install everything, but wait for the final tightening until it's all together (and ideally supported). But honestly sometimes I have skipped the step to support it before final tightening and so far so good.

-Bob C.
 


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