• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

How many degrees of KR do you get?

Lmao, yep first attempt..
really didn't look to bad until I wrapped it with insulation.
BUT, I can sit idling for dang near 15 minutes before my AIT temps start rising!! And they stay within 1° of ambient air if I'm moving at all.
 


Twizted 1 said:
The fact is that you are in total control of your eyes, if you don't like it stop looking at it. Believe me I'm not begging for your input.
Just trying to lend a hand to my fellow GP owners.
Click to expand...

Lol jeez don't get so bent out of shape if you get that mad about a opinion you won't last long on this site.
I apologize I will keep my opinion to myself so you don't get so butthurt next time :D
 
This site is ****ing Tame compared to some other sites I frequent.

Opinions are Great but insulting someone is another. If it's something you don't like, state what you think they should change. Post pics of yours and give ideas not insults.
 
Last edited:
Twisted get your panties out of a bunch. Its an eye sore. Truth hurts, I give no cares, I run a HAI.

Dyno proven the HAI makes the same power as a CAI so it doesn't matter. Point is the EatonM90 runs so hot without an intercooler all your attempts at getting cool air are pointless, as soon as it hits the rotors the air will heat up and that little extra density is lost.

Now swap over to a better blower and you can pull more power out of a cold air intake but the #'s don't lie.
 
Personally I don't give two Sh*ts about your numbers or your opinions either for that matter, I've tried several different setups and what I have works best so far.
And I hate to break your heart but if the AIT temps are high the PCM WILL retard timing. And you'll get more KR.
You can like it or not.
Tell you what, get on a dyno shut your hood and let the filter actually be in its environment (Heat) then tell me how it reacts.
You won't see the same results.
 
Last edited:
Twizted 1 said:
Personally I don't give two Sh*ts about your numbers or your opinions either for that matter, I've tried several different setups and what I have works best so far.
And I hate to break your heart but if the AIT temps are high the PCM WILL retard timing. And you'll get more KR.
You can like it or not.
Click to expand...

I bumped up the point at which the PCM pulled timing, so it never pulled timing, nor did I see more or less KR switching between the two styles of intakes. All the box intake did was add time to putting the engine back together. Only thing that affected KR was quantity of fuel and pulley size.
 


When you're sitting still the intake temps creep up.

Soon as you're moving they drop...soo, keep trying on that one Summertown guy.

Also: facts are facts.

I just stated a fact, not an opinion.

How's that?
 
Facts may be facts.
But take your scan tool or programmer orl whatever you use and go on a road trip in town or highway.
HAI temps will stay atleast 10-20° higher than ambient air.
Now take a fenderwell intake and try the same thing. AIT temps will stay +/- 3° of ambient air. Dynos are great but they don't put the car through everyday use. The hood is up (cool air) there's fans blowing on the motor (cool air).
I'm sure my car would appreciate 20° cooler intake air while cruising.
So here's the problem solver, I was asked how I did it and what I used so I posted up pics and info.
If you don't like it move on. I don't like some of the **** other people do either but I act like and adult and offer a piece of advice or I keep my mouth shut and go to the next thread.
Y'all have a good day now ya hear.

Summertown Guy.
 
Is your car more stock than your average 3.4" setup? IAT's would matter.

Is your car intercooled? Then it doesn't matter.

Is your car modded past that of a 3.4" setup where flow > IAT's anyways...since you have a horrible power adder that's gonna crank intake air temps through the roof regardless?

Or are you still blind to the fact that until you address the power adder, intake placement and intake temp convo's are beating a dead horse because the 20* drop you get with a FWI, is negligent at the blower.

You want to really test it? Put an IAT in the LIM.

Thanks.
 
Twizted 1 said:
Tell you what, get on a dyno shut your hood and let the filter actually be in its environment (Heat) then tell me how it reacts.
You won't see the same results.
Click to expand...

Except on a dyno you're not moving so the air flow is much different than on the road... that's why you have the hood open/ fan on. And it still doesn't accurately represent on road conditions.


And you seriously are overlooking the fact that when it goes through the supercharger it gets heated. Any difference in intake temps will be moot after it gets through the rotors.
 
Twizted 1 said:
Facts may be facts.
But take your scan tool or programmer orl whatever you use and go on a road trip in town or highway.
HAI temps will stay atleast 10-20° higher than ambient air.
Now take a fenderwell intake and try the same thing. AIT temps will stay +/- 3° of ambient air.
Click to expand...

I did do that, and it didn't show what you're describing. It showed the IAT went up when moving slow, down to ambient when moving faster. The box was quicker at getting down to temp, and slower to rise in the city, but it would still rise quite high on very hot days stuck in traffic.

Either way, IAT at low speeds didn't make any difference to me until I finally got a tire that let me hook in first. Then my 1-2 shift began to take so long I couldn't go WOT in first anyways.
 


No I'm not overlooking the fact that the supercharger Superheats the air once it's inside the LIM. But I'm not nodded to the point of pullies and IC's. My PCM still reads the air at the TB. I tried an opencone breather and would get KR while going up hills. Over half of my original KR is gone with this setup.
I like the way my engine responds to it a LOT better than the opencone.
Just because I like something doesn't mean everyone else will like it.
Opinions are like As*holes, we all have them but some smell worse than others.
 
I'll see about getting my hai put back on this weekend and do some comparison videos.
My hai air temps always stayed high.
In traffic they got around 140-150°
With the setup I have now it can idle in my driveway for 15-20mins and they never reach 100°. On the highway temps stay right at ambient.
 
To be fair, my ambient temps never went over 90 most days, 95 would be an extreme. So if you're regularly seeing high 90's and up, 140 isn't that far out.
 
It was far enough that I started getting KR while daily driving. Anything near 1/2 throttle and my pcm would start pulling timing.
Btw, isn't timing supposed to read 0 at WOT?
 
timing advance should only be around zero if the PCM is pulling timing for say a shift via torque management or traction control.

Wot should be 14-16 for a mostly stock car. If 04+ the PCM tries to run a lot more, but will pull back into the teens.
 


well I have one of reptiles PCMs but at WOT my timing is at 16-17°.
Hmm, maybe that's where some of my problem is.
 
A Reptile PCM is a DHP.

Nothing is hardly even changed...I'd know since the DHP PT we had could read all of the PCM files.

16* is stock anyways.

If you can't get that IMO, you don't need to be running a smaller pulley.

Since, afterall...timing > boost.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top